aba4430

Bucky, Don't mean to sidetrack this thread, but responding to Bucky's message: Here is the TR link to Bridgestones. A couple of Potenza's have decent reviews. The OE tire is also listed (see last one). I have the 205/50VR17 version of the OE on my OBS. Besides the low treadwear rating, it handles well, roadnoise is a bit high. The G019 (H & V) and the RE960 have decent ratings. Also see the Discount Tire Direct site, they might be a bit higher, but with free shipping. aba http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?tireIndex=0&autoMake=Subaru&autoYear=2008&autoModel=Impreza+2.5i+5+Door&autoModClar=With+OE+Rubber+Valve+Stems&width=205/&ratio=55&diameter=16&sortCode=44950&skipOver=true&minSpeedRating=H&minLoadRating=S&tab=All

Thanks for the quick responses. The connections then are fine. I have the WP bypass hose connected to the bottom connector. The other hose from the cross tube sits naturally a bit higher and is connected to the upper firewall connector. The radiator is like brand new. I am sure it is my head gasket. The fans do come on with the engine hot, as checked yesterday. I just drove the Brat up the driveway, turned and came back into the garage, so it is out of the rain. It sounds excellent and idles even better than before, but is blowing white steam out the tail pipe. Initially I thought it was the carb cleaner I had added prior to start-up, but it is continuing to blow white steam, so I am sure it is the HG now. Plus the overpressurization with cap on, and bubbles and overflow out of the radiator withoutn the cap on etc. Well gives me a chance to buy an engine stand now, or from what I have read for the past 45 to 60 minutes, you could replace the HGs with the engine on the car. The car is too good with everything working, to waste. Now to muster up some courage and tackle the HGs.

So far no luck. Can someone confirm for me whether the heater hose that connects to the water pump bypass tube goes to the lower of the two heater core connections on the firewall? Just want to confirm my connections are proper. Thanks, aba

I just went and bought another g of coolant. Will go out and work on it after it stops raining. No, it does not shoot out coolant. Just gurgles out - did not even do that when the cap was off, unless I filled it too quick. However, when the cap was on, and I relieved pressure with it warm/hot, it flowed out freely through the overflow tube.

Update: This is after a while, but here it goes: Replaced all the heater hoses along with a clamp to keep them together. The bypass hose was also replaced. Replaced upper and lower radiator hose. Replaced the two coolant (small diameter) bypass hoses and the thermostat control valve that is between one of the two small diameter hoses and the water pump bypass hose. While I was at it, replaced an aftermarket PCV valve with Subaru OEM one. Am not sure whether this is related, but my hot air system has come back to life and the car seems to idle better than before. Put everything together yesterday, so far not so good. I cannot add coolant without it all leaking out from the radiator over flow tube. I am learning the hard way. Initial thoughts were that exhaust gases are leaking into the cooling passages and causing a pressure situation as there is pressure built up in the system. However I do not think this is the case. I believe there is some serious air in the system that is expanding with engine temperature??. I initially installed the cap after topping the radiator. This is when I noted the coolant spraying out and the pressure situation. Then I left the cap off after topping the radiator and let the engine idle until the thermostat opened up (upper hose felt hot). Then continued to add coolant until could add no more. Thereafter, I stopped the engine and put the radiator cap on. I wanted to go for a short drive after @15 mins, but as soon as I started the car, heard the classic gurgling sound in the dash. Got out of the car to check the coolant level, and saw coolant spraying out of the overflow tube. So a bit stumped! Am letting the car cool now and will restart it after removing the cap. May also drive it on ramps. Will wait until the thermostat opens and continue to add coolant while increasing rpms periodically. Will provide an update during the course of the day, but adding coolant should not be so tricky. The engine sounds good and I have not seen oil in coolant or vice versa. Am keeping my fingers crossed and hoping that I do not have any issues with the HGs. Any further leads appreciated. aba

The 09 acc catalogue does not list it, but the 08 does. Part number for the kit is H6210FG000 (2.5i w/o Prem. Pkg.). Check link also: http://www.worldpartsexpress.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=AccessoryCatalog&catalogid=5511&siteid=214078&categoryID=139531&subcat1=147584&subcat2=147586&subcat3=147605 The link however is reflected under 09 accessories for the imp. So this is one you need. It is the same for the 08 and 09's.

http://www.subaruofrichmond.net/new-inventory/index.htm?start=0&SByear=clear&SBmake=Subaru&SBmodel=Impreza%20WRX&SBprice=clear http://www.pencesubaru.com/new-inventory/index.htm?SByear=clear&SBmake=Subaru&SBmodel=Impreza%20WRX&SBprice=clear About 350 to 370 miles away:)

On my 87 Brat (EA81), I used TRW when I replaced these in 2004. The parts were from Japan. I have a set of TRW joints for my 94 Altima now that I need to replace; these are also from Japan. They look absolutely OEM. TRW and B&A are reasonable choices. Edited to fix spelling error.

Thanks guys. Getting ready to go out, get some radiator hoses and take care of this. When I first got the Brat in 93, I replaced the heater hoses with a red hose (reinforced layers) that I had bought at PepBoys. That lasted me almost 10 years. I replaced that with standard black hose (Advance) in 2004, when I did my clutch etc. Yesterday, went to PepBoys and asked for the red hose and they did not have it in the 5/8" ID, but had the black one. It is a reinforced three layer (black, green middle (corded?), black inner) hose. Looks pretty good (Part is INSULONE 036687173522) The existing hoses did not rub against anything. That happened once when I owned a 81 hatchback. However, moral of the story is to get good quality hoses, and replace them at a reasonable frequency. I should have replaced my existing hoses earlier, even though checking did not reveal anything.

I was driving to work this morning on 288 (Chesterfield, VA) @70 - 75 mph and entered I-95S. At this time, I started hearing a faint knocking; looked at the dash and saw the temperature gauge pegged out. Quickly got in the slow lane and managed to exit on 61B at Chester. I safely maneuvered the Brat into an Exxon gas station and turned off the engine. Got out and saw little steam coming out around the hood. Checked under the hood and the radiator cap was cold. Opened the cap and there was no coolant. Then I walked around the back, and saw the bumper was coated with coolant. Looked closely, and noted a heater hose ruptured. Got the Brat towed home and it is parked in the garage. While waiting for the tow truck I cranked it, the engine turned, but felt sluggish. There is no oil leak, and no odor of burnt oil. I got replacement hose, but am keeping my fingers crossed and hoping that the engine did not suffer any damage. I mean the gauge was pegged out. I must have driven a total of 15 miles and do not know when exactly this happened. The hose was last replaced in 2004, and I have checked it by feel periodically, but obviously missed something. Well I will look at it tomorrow, check the oil (most likely will change oil and filter it is less than 1500 miles old), replace the heater hoses; might also replace the radiator hoses – these feel OK, but are also 5 years old. I am not sure whether the water pump has survived; will find out. Other than a worst case head gasket failure, are there any other items I need to be on the look out for? Thanks, aba

Shooting a bit from the hip here; however check your gas cap - it might need replacing. When you remove the gas cap, you are supposed to do it slow - you will usually hear fuel pressure release (hissing sound). They warn you not to remove the cap quickly, but only after the pressure has been relieved to avoid the potential of fuel spraying out. If your gas tank is venting with the cap on, your cap might need replacing...... Edit. I need to read up a bit more on this tonight, it has been a long time. Your cap is part of the emission system and I think is supposed to allow some venting etc.

Appreciate the information. The ones I found replaced existing drums and the part the front rotor bolts to. Will keep on serching. Also will have my sister in law call up Subaru etc. Thx, aba

Hey folks, Several years ago, I found a site in Japan that listed a converter for our 4 X 140 wheels to a 5 bolt pattern. It had pictures etc. I have tried and tried, but cannot find that site and listing now. If I remember correctly, the adapter part would replace the piece that the front rotor bolts to with the 4 bolts, and had 5 studs instead of 4. I am not sure about the rear drum brakes, i.e. whether it showed a drum with 5 studs or if there was a converter that could be used with a rear disc upgrade. Does anyone have a link to this? I am asking as my sister in law leaves for Japan tomorrow, and there is a possibility I might be able to get the parts shipped to the US. Thx, aba

Beautiful car. Thanks for sharing the pictures.

Sorry about this. Glad you are OK. I used to keep a fire extinguisher in our 91 legacy, and for some years in our 2000 expedition. Will go out and buy some for all our cars. Regards, aba

When you say shaking of the wheel, do you mean oscillation from side to side, or severe front end shaking. If it is just oscillation from side to side, I think your front end components should be OK. I recommend that you check whether your calipers are sticking. Not just severe sticking, but not retracting easily. Plus also check whether your rotors are warped. Sticking calipers and warped rotors will lead to vibration (oscillation) of the steering wheel. If this is the case, you might also notice that high speeds, such vibrations are minimized or non-existent, but you feel it at low to moderate speeds. Edit to fix spelling.

Took a trip to Marietta, PA on Wednesday. Stayed at Lancaster, completed some work at Marietta yesterday and returned home. Put on ~510 miles round trip and averaged right at 29 mpg over the trip. The 495 DC traffic going up and I-95 traffic (did not take 495) through the DC area was a killer and I am sure effected gas mileage - covered @12 miles in well over an hour on the way back. However, the OBS performed perfectly. I thought the seat was comfortable (I was alone); the sound system (MP3 player used through jack) is excellent - the source material should be high quality, and the sound system sparkles. I had adjusted the tire pressures to 34/33 (F/R) last Sunday when it was cooler. However, the weather has warmed up. The car drove a bit hard, although the suspension still felt compliant. I like the way it handles. Will check the pressures and adjust if needed. The black color will take some doing to keep clean; it is getting a good bath this weekend. More initial impressions to come......

I have NGK wires on two Nissan Altima's (~$70) and a set on my 87 Brat (~17). No issues. The NGK's are fine wires in my experience. Even after extended use, if the resistance values are acceptable, and there are no cracks/damage to the boots and wire insulation, they do not need changing. You can go for the best and get Magnacore's as well. Best is relative - is it the materials of construction of the cables that is better and help these potentially take abuse and last longer, or does it provide superior measurable electrical performance. Go with whichever, the cost difference normalized over the lifespan will work out to be minimal........

Just a basic question, but are you sure it is not the slight, but normal brake pad drag? What I mean is that the brake rotor does not rotate freely, but touches the pads slightly. Welder may be spot on with the spacer point as well.

Here are few more shots. One of them also shows the future owner of my Brat. The Brat is in the background.

Here are two simple low res shots. I will upload more later. So far, everything works like a charm......

Will try and post pictures soon as I have had trouble before. The dealer wrote us an IOU for wheel locks and roof rack (parts department closed), and replacement of the passenger side headlight. There seems to be slight condensation? stains visible in the top flat part of that lamp, under the plastic. However, the family loves it. I will add the tail pipe finisher and splash guards soon. It will be complete then. Thanks, aba

Hey folks, We just picked it up from Richmond Subaru. My wife driving, following me in my Brat. Was not clear earlier, but it is brand spankin new with 372 miles at pick-up (came from Southern States, NC per the sticker - hence a dealer transfer and a few extra miles). I made an internet offer on this one and also a 5 speed 2009. They basically matched the offer on the 2008, but would not budge on their sale price on the 09 manual. Got the 2008 with a bunch of extras for ~$1000 less than the 2009 with 5 speed which itself is also on sale big time. Well, after a @35 to 40 mile drive home, my wife loves it. I did see another post from Grossgary (after searching), and found out that it does have the input jack for the MP3 under the center storage bin. More later. Thx, aba

Perhaps not too much information here on the WRX's too. Agree, there is a lot of general global information here. Thx, aba PS. Just wanted to clarify my reply as it was not accurate.

Hello Grossgary, Did not copy and paste anything, and from any site. Do not belong to any other Subaru forums, but I have read negatives at other sites, as well as a bunch here about styling (which I said I do not care about and because my family likes it period). Plus I know there is a lot of non-WRX stuff here, just not too much constructive information on the 2008 and beyond Impreza's (other than WRX and beyond). If there is, then I have not have looked hard enough. Going in a couple of hours and will you folks posted. Thx, aba