aba4430

http://www.buybrakes.com/brembo/am-apps-Subaru.html This place sells the fluid you are looking for, and of course the Brembo stuff. I did not find SS braided brake lines for EA-81s, but they have some 3 separate brands for the newer models.

http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/News/articleId=130014 Could be stale news here. Positive Impreza tweaks for 2009.

Advance sells this model for EA-81s. It is a two row. I installed it in my Brat in 2004 and it has been fine. May be the same model as sold by Rockauto. http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=PCE&MfrPartNumber=433698&PartType=31&PTSet=A Just checked Rockauto. It is the same model, but a bit cheaper when shipping is added.

I keep the pressures on my stock size tires (87 Brat) 30 psi all the way around. With the GR2's up front and the gas-a-just's in the rear, the ride is not harsh at all; it is compliant and controlled. Excellent shocks.

I installed the gas-a-just KG4183A's on my 87 Brat, sometime in 2004. Excellent shocks for ~$34 a piece. Just noted you asked about struts.........

It may have been translucent white originally, but over the years has turned into pale yellow/yellowish. It is a single connector with pliable silicon? rubber around it. It is in the area under the dash, very little to the left (drivers side). If you take the under dash cover off and drop the fusebox (two machine screws), inspect/wiggle wires, you will see the connection - take it apart and look for an identical vacant female conductor to plug into. Keep in mind, it is not the single white thicker guage power? cable above the fuse box area that also is connected via a silmilar connector.

Should not the 15 A fuse be between the battery and number 3 position on the relay?

fantastic job.......

Everything is torn apart right now. Was speaking to my better half earlier about replacing the carpet trim as you indicate. Will keep you posted. Thanks.

10-4. I see you used carpet plugs to fill those in....,but then you have larger grills as well....

Great job so far. I am installing a Sony MEX-BT2600 in the dash and Infinity Kappa 42.5i's (purchased in 2005, but was too lazy to install) in the doors and 32.5i's (also 2005) in the dash. I am running 12 guage wires to all. These speakers have separate crossovers. The dash speakers are no problems. I have an abs plastic sheet that crutchfield sent me in 2005, that I will make brackets out of. My dilemma is the original Subaru door speaker grills are worn to a point that they need to be replaced. The 42.5i Infinity grills are barely large enough to fill the circular door/carpet cutout, if I do this carefully. However, I will have to fill in the monster four holes with something to make it appear stock and neat. Do you know if there are generic larger speaker grill available. I am going to see if crutchfield has some..... Do not mean to hijack this thread, but since we are doing similar things now, just wanted to ask without duplicating in another post............

I have done auto filters several times over, including on Subarus' , but just reading this I thought of our JD LX178 tractor faithfully doing service since 1995. It has a fuel cut off valve. Can something like this be installed in line prior to the main filter on our non-injected Subs? Can we get a valve that will allow adequate flow that the Subs need? This would make it very easy to replace filters?

Good luck with the stereo install. I am doing the same now in my 87 Brat. Did you get the carpet/padding custom made or is it available someplace?

Easy 25-26 mpg; a/c on and combined hwy/city driving on my 87 Brat after recent tune up and OEM thermostat install. This is @2-3 mpg better than I was getting with my 180 deg non OEM thermostat, albeit prior to recent tuneup. I think the thermostat made the largest difference. I have the stock Hitachi carb.......

Hello Folks, I have the interior of my Brat torn apart. Basically trying to figure out my low voltage problems within the dash. Alternator and battery, including cables check out OK; the truck starts fine etc. Another reason is to replace the existing stereo and speakers with new units. Will run dedicated speaker wires, thus doing away with common speaker grounds. I will also run dedicated fused power for the new headunit and also run grounds to two or three points within the cab. Thereafter will run pigtails from existing grounds (need to find a few within the cab) to the new points. Have not made much progress, but I believe I have fixed my clock memory (bonus). Basically undid one sure seal single bullet connector and plugged the male end into a vacant sure seal female bullet connector just hanging under the dash. Just checked the clock and it is keeping memory. Will watch it to make sure this is not an adverse fix. While visually inspecting wires etc., I came across two unused and corroded 4 pin connectors under the passenger seat carpet (see picture). The two terminals do not mate to each other as they are similar (no male/female relationship). One has the wires totally separated due to corrosion and the other one shows signs of corrosion on the terminals. Does anyone know what these are for? Perhaps unused in the Brat, but used in other EA81 vehicles? Am having trouble attaching the picture. Thanks, aba4430

Please see if this post helps you? I switched the R12 on my Brat to R134A and it has been 4 years and holding up. I did use one can of charge last year to top it off. However, in VA weather, it has been fine. Go to Autozone and rent a vacuum pump. You can do this fairly cheap if you have no leaks and parts are good. Good luck. aba4430 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70729&highlight=aba4430

I recently tuned up my 87 Brat after @25K miles from previous one. Replaced wires (NGK, @$16 from sparkplugs.com), Denso plugs (NGK or Denso, both are OEM), PCV (use OEM if you can, I used aftermarket), OEM air filter (I have OEM vapor sep. and fuel filter that I need to install after another @5K miles), OEM cap and rotor (however - your JP parts should be comparable), OEM thermostat (replaced a 180 deg one, and this one change made a significant positive difference in driveability). All OEM genuine Subaru parts were from worldpartsexpress.com (excellent outfit to deal with). Also see if your vacuum hoses need replacement. I replaced about 10 feet of vacuum tubing, and the Brat is much happier. Good luck. aba

Snug the axle nut on with pliers until the drum turns with hand and only minimal bearing drag is felt. Wiggle the drum side to side and top and bottom. If there is play, snug the axle nut some more. Do this until there is no play in the drum, but you can rotate the drum back and forth with minimal drag (sensation of drag!), i.e. it is smooth. Rotate the drum by hand a few turns, forward and backwards, to seat the bearings. Check the axle nut again. Snug the axle nut on further if loose. Rotate drum with hands until minimal drag (sensation of drag!) on the bearings. Bend the tab on the lock washer (lock plate washer) over the nut. Make sure you check the seals also and replace if damaged. Also make sure your bearings are packed with adequate wheel bearing grease. I do not have my 81 two wheel drive hatchback anymore, but I butchered up the rear bearings as I had overtightened them while doing the rear brakes and drove all the way to Pittsburgh from Atlanta. On the way it developed a howl from the rear wheels and I had to get both bearings replaced in Pittsburgh. By the way, I have brand new lock plate washers that I purchased as spares for my 81 2-door hatch 2WD years ago (just need to find them). I can send two to you for $5 total, includes shipping. You do not even have to pay me. Just make a donation to USMB after you have received these. Make sure the 81 washers will work for you. Send me a PM if interested and I will hunt these down. aba

Try these folks for Denso and other products. They are good to deal with: http://sparkplugs.com/

Returned from GA last Thursday. Total trip to and from with some driving around in Athens was @1050 miles - @495 miles each way. I started at @1120 from Athens on Thursday and entered my garage at 1830. Just stopped for gas on the way. Averaged right at 69 mph all the way with AC on all the time (AC was on and off while travelling to GA). Speeds were mostly at 70 to 80, with beyond 80 at times. No problems keeping up with traffic and the Brat ran fantastic. Approximate fuel mileage was 24.6 mpg. At 70 mph the rpms are @3500 and at 80, it is @3800, give or take 100 rpm - I did not pay close attention. The 4-speed is a bit limited on the top end, but beyond 80 mph is not a problem. I remember my 81 GL 2-door hatch (2WD with 5-speed) would run all day at 70 with the engine turning at 3000 rpm. Now I get to replace the left front driveshaft.

Appreciate the comments. Was checking it yesterday and the drivers side CV inner boot is bust. I have the LLT warranty from Advance on this, but do not have time to take care of it today. Should be alright for my trip, I think. Regards, aba4430

No manual transmission with the turbo in 2009????

1987 Brat, DR 4WD, original engine. Bought in 1993 from original owner in Albany, GA. Build Date - 06/1987 Engine number - 460949

The Brat has @116300 miles now. I went to Greensboro (Piedmont/Triad) area last Sunday for training. It is @215 miles from Chesterfield, VA. Drove the Brat just for fun. It ran beautifully. Most of the time between 70 to 80 mph and no issues keeping up with traffic. Returned yesterday evening (rained all the way back, but still 70 to 80 all along). This was the first time in over 10 years that the Brat has seen sustained "high speed" travel for even 200 miles non-stop. Previously, it has been been driven between Altanta and Albany, GA a few times. I used to drive between Atlanta and Pittsburgh regularly in the 87 to 90 timeframe in my '81 2WD GL confidently - but was a bit nervous with the Brat. Now I go to UGA - Athens for a GMP (Pharmaceutical Good Manufacturing Conference) on Monday. I could fly, but have purposely not made flight reservations. Last year I drove to this same conference in my Altima, but now am thinking between the Brat and my Altima. It is only @480 miles each way. Will give the Brat a once over and most likely take it to GA on Monday. It is good when the ride is nice and solid with no creaks and rattles present. Could live with a little bit less wind noise though.......... Also, need to beautify the Brat with a fresh coat of paint someday..........

So far, no oil drips on the garage floor. Drove for ~100 miles the past couple of days, and no real major issues. The OEM thermostat allows the truck to warm up appreciably quicker. Mother nature also loves the fact that I cannot smell unburnt gasoline anymore. The idle is a bit better and even. Some concerns at this point are as follows: The hot air system. The door moves a bit lower, but does not close fully during cold start. Based on present temps., it should close. I will remove and check it out. There is a procedure in HTKYSA. The door may be stuck. The AC idle up control does not work. I can feel very little vacuum (disposable glove being sucked into hose) on the line that connects to the fitting on the idle up diaphragm mounted on a bracket by the carb. This has been a problem since I purchased the truck in 1993. Over the past two days, the truck has cut off 3 to 4 times when braking to a stop. Does not happen everytime. I have to check the choke out as well. I replaced the carb with a National Carb remanufactured unit in 2006 and have had an issue with the choke. What I have done in the interim is bypass the vacuum line to the "vacuum" AC valve mounted on the passenger strut tower until I can figure this out. In order to compensate for the engine drain when the AC is on, I have set the no load idle speed to ~1300 rpm. With the AC and lights on at night, the idle drops to ~900. The truck runs better now, but still the cold idle bugs to be worked out. Thx, aba4430