aba4430

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/712311-round-up-in-the-expedition.html I belong to the ford-trucks list and had to post this link when I came across it.

Hello folks, Just had to share. My 87 Brat got some TLC the past couple of days: New oil pan gasket (Felpro - coated with Permatex Ultra Grey). Tightened bolts as hard as I could with a thick philips head sd. Did this on my 1981 2 door hatch in the early nineties once with Permatex black RTV sealant coating the gasket, and it worked like a champ. Will see how this holds up. Retorqued the head bolts (yes, I know..........). I have the special suby socket. Only two bolts per side need that socket. Slightly loosened the intake manifold bolts and followed the proper pattern etc. I also had done this to my 81 in the early nineties and all was well. But this was the first time on a 21 year vehicle, and I am a bit nervous. The exposed bolts were extra hard to loosen, even with some penetrant, but once loosened and oiled, they were fine. New valve cover gaskets - Felpro coated with Ultra Grey also. Had to reuse the old grommets. They were not too butchered up though. New OEM thermostat (190). This replaces a 180 Robertshaw Gold (installed in 2004), which appeared brand new when taken out. Hopefully, the truck will be happier. It was running cold. Replaced almost 10 feet (9+) vacuum tubing with Goodyear (Autozone) 5/32" tube. Hopefully, my hot air system will come back to life. The tube to the vacuum motor was toasted both ends. With a little bit of Vaseline, all went well. I did not note any orifices in the tubing I removed. The black barbed T connection close to the firewall appears a bit < 5/32". I may have to get a new T to replace. ND sparkplugs gapped to 0.044". I screwed up here. Should have gapped to 0.040". I gap on the tighter side, so should not make any difference. The recommended range is 0.039 to 0.043". OEM distributor cap and rotor, OEM air filter, Purolator PCV valve, B&E PCV filter and NGK spark plug wires. Oil (Castrol) high mileage oil and ND filter. Fuel filter and vapor separator were replaced last year and are OK. I have the OEM front suspension bushings to replace. Will try and tackle today or next weekend. Or will wait until I get new control arm bushings and will replace all then. Bushings appear OK visually. Now to cross my fingers and start it up. Then adjust idle, timing etc. I want to nail the "erratic cold idle problem". Always started fine, but idled erratically. Hopefully, it was a vacuum leak. Regards, aba4430

My previous 1981 2-door 2WD hatch had one. The 87 Brat does not.

http://www.worldpartsexpress.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=214078&chapter=ANL730&appSectionid=8&groupid=10011&subgroupid=20036&componentid=61868&make=32&model=Sedan&year=1985&graphicID=F730022&callout=6&catalogid=1 Worldpartsexpress is a pretty good site for OEM parts. If you have a bunch of parts, shipping can be considered minimal. I have ordered from them many times. I believe they operate out of MN.

The sport grill may be "a nice to have" item than is necessary at this time. The price is ridiculously high. The side strip may be worth it before someone carelessly puts a ding in a parking lot. They are redoing the Forester doors as well. Structurally, it has got to be a positive change.

Looks great and the mileage you are getting is excellent. I recently saw a sport grill on a 08 Impreza WRX, that I really liked. The dealer (Midlothian, VA) said it was an optional grill. Plain contoured black mesh in the middle with the Subaru emblem . Also, does Subaru make simple and elegant side strips for these as an option?

Does this help you? http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=759#1403

When I replaced the clutch on our 1987 Brat in 2004, I replaced the orange o-ring as well. It was part number 41396 7100 for the Brat. It is called the crankshaft o-ring. Back then, I bought the part from: http://www.subaruparts.com/cart/?pn=413967100&submit.x=16&submit.y=2 It is $6.59 now. I am not sure whether this is applicable to your 84 GL wagon.

These folks rock too! I have purchased several parts from them for our NIssan's, Ford Ex and Brat. No hassles at all and prices are fantastic. All OEM stuff. http://www.worldpartsexpress.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214078

What seats are you using in your Brat? Look real good! aba

Still looking for my 4th wheel, but I have settled on BFG 195/60R15 tires. I hope I get my 4th wheel quickly. In the meanwhile, I have looked and looked for lug nuts. I have read about acorn to ball seat adapters and also stumbled upon the following Gorilla application for Honda's - http://www.gorilla-auto.com/lug.nuts.page_10 The size is 12 X 1.5. Subaru's use 12 X 1.25. If I change out the studs to 12 X 1.5, will these work on the Pugs? Anyone done this? ON page 10, look for part numbers 38138 (closed) and 38038 (open). Thx, aba4430

Congratulations and happy motoring in it for a loooooooooooooong time. I saw a black one on display at the Frankfurt airport on Friday morning. External fit and finish is awesome. Did not get to look at it closely as I was in a rush to get back home. aba4430

Appreciate the responses and information. I went to Chesterfield (VA) Auto Parts yesterday afternoon with my Dad. I had gone there the previous Sunday and saw a Peugeot 505 in the yard, but did not pay much attention. So yesterday I went back and found 3 pristine wheels. One was inside the car and two were still mounted with a couple of lugnuts each. Since the wheel was free rotating, I used a 19 mm socket on a swivel handle and hammered the lugnuts loose. Only one wheel had the center cap. So now I have 3 wheels, 4 lugnuts with the conical seat washers and one center cap. They charged me @$26 bucks for two tires also. I was able to talk them out of charging me for the 3rd one as the valve stem was missing and it was full of water. I will return the two tires and get my money back. So each wheel will end up costing me @$12 plus @$8 for core, for @$20 a piece. Not too bad. Now I need at least one more wheel, lugnuts/washers and lastly three center caps. Will keep you'll posted... The picture of the one with the center cap is included. See link for all three: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=3724

Hello, I have searched the site for information on pugs and obtained a lot of information. Before I go all out trying to locate wheels, I have a few questions and could use use some help: The 15" 8 (flat) spoke alloy wheels look good. Center caps and lugs will be difficult to find. I believe the wheels are 15" X 6". In order to keep the diameter of the tire/wheel combo as close to OEM, I am limiting my tire sizes to either 195/55/15 or 205/50/15. The lower the profile, the more "Unlike-Brat" it will look. Any other tire suggestions? I am not too worried about odo/speedo calibration as long as there is no rubbing. I do not want to get the 390 mm metric wheels and will make sure the wheels say 15 X 6". The offset for the OEM wagon wheels - Will the 15" flat spoke pugs have a similar offset. Will there be any ride/handling and stopping concerns? I am going to be calling places over the next week to try and locate some wheels. Thx, aba

Remove fuel pump fuse. Crank the engine, till the motor starts, struggles for lack of fuel, and shuts down. Remove the gas cap and crank the engine again. It should not start. If it does, just let it shut down. I do this on our Nissans and Expedition. Leave the gas cap on loose. Remove the fuel filter hose clamps. Spray a tiny bit of WD40 at the end of each hose, where it goes into the filter. Use your hands to turn the hose back and forth to free it up - remove hoses. Use rags, or paper towels to catch residual fuel from the filter, and a bit from the lines. Replace the filter; attach hoses, making sure the inlet and outlet sides are correct. Tighten the hose clamps. Actually snug them on until the hoses will not turn back and forth with your hands. Replace the fuel pump fuse, tighten the gas cap and start your car up. It should sputter for a couple of seconds and fire right up. Check for leaks, smell etc. Snug the hose clamps down a bit further, as needed.

Can you post a picture of your homemade tool - or give some details on how you made it etc. Thx, aba

Genuine subaru kits for a reasonable price: http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=759#1400

Thanks for the follow-up. I have to do a major tune-up on the Brat. Will try and troubleshoot my idle-up set-up then. Will update you. aba

My 87 has the diaphragm gizmo with the L arm to increase idle speed. So it may be identical to yours. Thx, aba

I have the exact same issue as you do - on my 87 Brat. I set my idle with the a/c on. So it is a bit high. If you find a solution or part details, please post. Thx, aba

Great write-up. Thanks for taking the effort to post detailed pictures and instructions. aba

In my opinion, the system is supposed to let in hot air during cold start-up........ Anyways, happy you got your issue resolved.

OEM Nissan filter number 15208-55Y00 (Made in Japan) most of the time on the 87 Brat, or Purolator PureOne. Recently I ordered 6 Nippon Denso filters (Made in Thailand) from Sparkplugs.com. I still have to use these on the Brat, but one is on my Nissan Altima. I used the Fram PH2825 for the longest time on my 1981 GL (17 k miles to @150 k miles, sold in 2000) without any issues. I have used Fram PH3682 on the Brat a few times earlier on, but dropped using these several years ago, once I started reading about quality issues. I do still use the Fram Toughguard (TG4967) occasionally on our John Deere LX178. Have not had any issues, and the oil stays clean (visually). Had one bad experience with a Fram (do not remember the part number) on our 1991 Legacy wagon (totalled by an 18 wheeler in 1993). Basically, the oil was leaking from the gasket area. I was lucky it was not a drastic leak.

Beveled side to the pan - as said above. I do the same on our Brat and copper gaskets on our Nissan drain plugs.

NGK or ND. I have used both on my two 1994 Altima's and the 1987 Brat. Actually used ND's more than the NGK's. As added information, NGK also makes excellent plug wires (custom for each application). So does ND. I use NGK wires on our Nissan's. Will change out the Brat wires to NGK or ND later this Summer, when I do a full tune-up. Regards, aba