aba4430

Scott, I used either this kit: http://www.id-usa.com/product.asp?CID=28&PID=218 or this one, I am not sure: http://www.id-usa.com/product.asp?CID=28&PID=72 I bought it at Advance Auto for ~$30. All I did was rent a vacuum pump and manifold set, and evacuated my system. First time, I did not know how to use the system and did not verify that it held vacuum. As a result I did not note a ruptured A/C hose. So I wasted the first charge. It leaked out after a couple of days. I found the culprit damage on the hose, fixed it with a brass coupling from Home Depot, using two hose clamps. Then rented the vacuum pump and manifold set again. Cost me 20 bucks for a total of 40 for two times. Since I already had the guage and charging hose from the first kit, I just bought 3 X 12 oz. cans of 134A refrigerant with ~3 oz ester oil from Wal-Mart and recharged the system. It has been ~2 years and all is well. Total cost if all would have gone well the first time would have been ~$55. The detailed way to do it is like Poncho writes above, but I followed the ID recommended procedure and it has held up very well. aba4430

Same issue, the voltmeter registers @8 to 10 volts, and the best I cab do is ~11.5 volts, after driving for a while. I will check things out over the next few days. Thanks, aba

Durania, I have the exact same problem with my 87 Brat. I have half heartedly tried to troubleshoot, but have not made progress. Can you give me some more detail as to the exact location of this wire. Thanks in advance. aba4430

I use either NGK or Nippon Denso plugs - both are exceptional. For oil, I have used the Castrol semi synthetic on my Brat for the past 2 to 3 times. Prior to that, I used the regular GTX mostly. For spark plug wires, I need to upgrade to NGK's. I use NGK wires on the two Nissan's. For the wires, try www.ngk.com. I have purchased from them in the past and they are an excellent outfit and an authorized NGK dealer. For oil filters, I use the Nissan OEM filter, part number 15208-55Y00 for my 1987 Brat. These filters are <$5 and I buy several at a time. This oil filter may not apply to your vehicle.

Also look at post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17843&highlight=aba4430 The outfit is http://www.macsspring.com/ and I have purchased shocks for our Expedition and Brat from them. They are good to work with and prices are very competitive. Speak to Michael Wagenstein - mike@macsspring.com

I just bought a Bosal 229-577 through Autozone for my 87 Brat GL manual. Autozone also sells a generic tail pipe for ~$4 and clamp for ~$1.50 that fit the muffler perfectly. This one states it is a 229-517. However, looks to be similar. Check out the Bosal web site for more information. Regards, Ashok http://www.bosalna.com/index.php?mod=catalog

Check this site out. I have purchased NGK wires from them for Nissans. They are an authorized NGK dealer and CS is excellent. This link is for a 87 Subaru Brat, but you can get a listing for any Subaru on the site. NGK wires are tops. http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1267769 For air and fuel filters, distributor cap and rotor, I recommend Subaru genuine parts. These can be obtained from www.worldpartsexpress.com. I have dealt with them and their CS is also exceptional. Subaru tune up parts are competitively priced. For spark plugs, I recommend regular NGK's (V power) or Nippon Denso's (U groove). Both are exceptional. Change your PCV valve also. The O2 sensor is a good idea as well, every 25 thousand miles or so. I have gone 50K miles on our Nissans; do not have an O2 sensor on the Brat. To depressurize the fuel system, generic instructions are to take your fuel pump fuse out, start the car and let it run till it dies. Do this another time. Then undo your gas cap, and put it back on. Now go ahead and change your fuel filter. Have some rags/paper towels handy to soak up a minimal amount of fuel that might spill. Replace your fuel pump fuse thereafter. aba

Replaced the Champion unit with a National Carburetor SUB-174 model rebuilt unit yesterday. The carb looked like a brand new quality unit, came with two gaskets. The Champion had came with only one gasket with a botched up and spliced 3 wire harness. The Brat runs way smoother now. I need to dial in the idle speed now and fix the AC idle up adjustment (I need help with this - if someone has detailed instructions on adjusting the AC idle up, please post). On the drive from Petersberg Advance Auto Parts to home via 95, the Brat hit >85 mph with AC on. It feels freer, more responsive now. Used to struggle to get up to 75 previously. Anyway, I believe my Champion rebuild was faulty. Now to fix the AC idle up adjustment. Regards, Ashok PS. Link to National Carburetor http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/cat-subaru.html

Successful inspection completed last Tuesday. Now to continue to tackle my idle problems.

Try changing the fuel filter. Did he just check the filter or changed it? aba4430

I put on a Bosal OEM muffler today and a generic 1 3/4 tail pipe from Autozone. What ticked me off is that my original muffler did not have any holes, actually there was a little hole @1 1/2 inches after the muffler on the short pipe, plus a hole on the tail pipe. Anyway, now I take it back next week, give them another buck and get the inspection done. Regards, Ashok

GD, Another thing I noticed is when it is very hot outside (like the past few days), the car wants to die after just a few 100 yards, so might have a point about the choke. I will look into it also. Appreciate it. Ashok

Folks, I put a remanufactured carb from Advance Auto Parts in my Brat and have been trying to get it to work right for about a month now. This is what happens: It starts up fine and runs up to about 2k rpms, so the choke is working, I know. After about 5 minutes of routine driving, as the car warms up (and I believe the choke returns to normal), the engine dies as soon as I stop at a light and let off on the gas. If I am slowing down, I just use the clutch to restart it and continue going. After about 15 minutes of driving, when the car is fully warm, it stays running, and runs well. Does not die after this point at all. However, even after it is warm (item # 3 above), I feel a slight flat spot once I start off from stop. No flat spot once it is running. I only feel it when moving away from a stop. One additional item I have noted is that upon cold start-up, during slow take-off, the engine does not appear very smooth - like a fuel starvation issue, so this is another twist to the problem. Vacuum connections appear to be fine - checked visually only. The fuel filter and vapor separator are brand new. The remanufactured carb is a DCP306-26 (Champion, I believe). I stopped at Advance yesterday and let them know that I will most likely have it replaced - of course they have no problems and will swap it out for me. However, I want to see if this is something simple and can be worked out without swapping the whole carb. I have searched the list and looked into HTKYSA and have a pointer - check the anti diesel solenoid. I will check this for proper operation tonight. Any other advise is appreciated. If I cannot figure this out, I will get them to order me a replacement. Regards, Ashok

Appreciate the feedback. I found my Bosch wiring diagram. The following are the connections I made: Terminal 87goes to the fog lamps. The lamps are connected to a good chassis ground. Terminal 86 goes through a firewall grommet and to the fog lamp switch. I have a 2 position switch that came with the lamp kit. The other position on the switch is grounded. Terminal 30 gets power from the battery. The in-line fuse holder has a 15 amp fuse. I have my relay mounted in the engine compartment on the passenger side strut tower, using a small Stanley L bracket. You could also tap the fuse box under the dash for power. Terminal 85 taps into the low beam (right one on mine) headlamp. There is a 3-prong connector. I have tapped mine to the bottom horizontalish connector. I played around with my voltmeter and also checked which position got the fogs to turn off with the high beam. I am thinking of also running a wire from the drivers side low beam (black wire with yellow stripe) and tapping it to the wire going to terminal 85. This may not be necessary though. Regards, Ashok

Update - Fog lamp wire fixed. Connected the 85 terminal to the passenger side low beam (black wire with yellow stripe). Now I can have it on by itself or with the low beam, it goes out with the high beams. aba4430

Folks, Last week I got stopped in my 1994 Altima while passing through Colonial Heights and the cop gave me a verbal warning for not having my safety inspection done. So we are in the process of getting all cars inspected. Took my Brat in for inspection this morning and it failed. Brakes, suspension, steering etc. were fine. My Bosch fog lamps have been wired independent of the head lamps, so it did not pass. I need to wire it to my low beams. My muffler (original) has a tiny hole, so they flunked it as well. The truck is absolutely quiet, but I understand, and support the vehicle safety program. In Albany, GA we did not have a mandatory safety inspection. I can take care of the muffler, but need some immediate help with the wiring for the fog lamps. I had the Bosch wiring diagram for the lights, but cannot locate it. I have two wires hooked up to the fog lamp switch, one to ground and one to the relay. How do I tap into the low beams? Thanks in advance. In the interim, I will continue to look. aba4430

Any fuel line hose will work. If it is good for fuel, it is good for coolant. When my Brat started leaking at one of those hoses, I bought some from Carquest. The fuel line hose for fuel injection applications will withstand higher pressures. Regards, aba4430

GD and Uberoo, appreciate the responses. Will keep you folks posted. aba4430

Folks, A couple of months ago I wrote about my carb throttle being stuck wide open. I transported my Brat behind our expedition on a U-Haul auto transport from Albany, GA to Chesterfield, VA in late May. I am 100% sure now that it was linked to crude from the plastic silencer that gave out due to a busted ASV on the right side. I searched all the related articles on the site and came across this one: http://www.usmb.net/repair/index.php?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29ddceb73856.77194796/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f3c62be2ef9f8.91773347.art So I ordered two pieces of part number SPS377200 from www.worldpartsexpress.com. A separate issue, but excellent customer service from these folks and their prices including shipping is fantastic when compared to others (I will write more separately about my experience with these folks). Well I received one of the two pieces (other one on order) am getting ready to replace it on the 87 Brat. I have a couple of questions as I want to avoid breaking the part and adapting it to the Brat, if I can. As posted in the repair article, the new part has the same bottom and internals, but a different top. The top has a connection for a little tube (vacuum???) and the box also included a section of vacuum tubing. Per the repair article, I can swap the top from the Brat and not use the top piece from the new part and repair the ASV. However: 1. What is the function of the vacuum?? port on the top part. If it just sucks air, I can connect it to one of the unused plugged ports on the air cleaner? 2. If vacuum is pulled out of this port on the new ASV, and since the Brat does not need it, can I just plug this port. Just trying to keep it intact and not having to disassemble it! Thanks in advance for the replies. aba4430

Folks, I was looking into the carb. problem on my 87 Brat today. Took the filter assy. off and looked into the carb with a flash light and could not see any gunk inside. I charged the battery, then tried carb cleaner spray, and started the car (after 5 months of sitting idle). It started after a few tries and the engine raced towards redline. I cut it off and on several times to get some oil pressure. However, bottom line is I am stumped as to why the throttle is stuck wide open. The carb number is DCP306-26, but the Subaru parts catalog (85-88, 1600, 1800 2D & MPV) does not even reference this number. For a Fed-MT, 4WD model, it references a DCP306-24 model. They must have had all sorts of variations in the carburetor's for these vehicles. Went to Advance Auto Parts and they have the same part number for the DCP306-26 and DCP306-27. Best thing is to rebuild mine. Will keep the group updated on progress. Regards, Ashok

Thanks for all the replies. The kits are freely available through Advance Auto Parts as well as Autozone. Remanufactured carbs run $320 to $350 at the two stores. I am thinking if I get the car to Chestefield, VA, then I should have no trouble rebuilding the carb. Time is against my side, otherwise I would attempt a fix in GA. Will keep the group updated. Regards, aba4430

Thanks for the responses. The tips on getting the Brat on the Dolly are helpful. It is a regular 4 speed DR transmission, so I do not need to disconnect the driveshaft. I will troubleshoot the carb. when I get home this weekend. I contacted Colorado Engine Rebuilders a few weeks ago to see if they carried carbs., and they don't. I read some recent negative comments about Roo Builders, so did not try them. Any good places to get a remanufactured carb? Plus do I need to be worried about repairing/replacing the ASV if it is shot? Lastly, when replacing the carb., do you need to drain off some coolant first? I read this in How to Keep Your Subaru Alive! Thanks, aba4430

Did some searching, and am finding some information. Should be alright to tow with front wheels off ground, tranny in neutral and steering wheel unlocked. I might have an issue getting it on the dolly.

Folks, I have been in VA for the past 5 months (new job etc.). Just before leaving GA over the new year, the throttle on my Brat stuck wide open while I was driving @75 mph in Albany, GA. So I stopped the car, freed the throttle to a point where I could move it normally with my hands. The accelerator cable felt fine based on pedal feel after I freed the throttle. However, as soon as I started the car, the engine raced to redline, so I cut it off. It did this a couple of times. I believe something is stuck inside the carbureter. So I got the Brat towed home (Albany, GA) where it has been since January. Now I go back and move my family to VA next week. I plan on towing the Brat behind our 4WD Expedition, as the relocation company will not transport a disabled vehicle - and I have not had the time to rebuild or replace the carb. I am planning on getting a two wheel car dolly and towing the Brat with the front wheels off the ground. Is this acceptable and should I be wary of anything? Thanks for your help. aba4430

This is a shot in the dark, but I had similar symptons on a 1994 Nissan Altima and was eventually stranded and had to be towed home. The tach went nuts when I was driving, i.e. up and down etc. I found oil leakage into the electronics of distributor (oil leaked past the disty shaft o-ring). I dabbed everything and used some CRC sensitive parts electronics cleaner, cleaned everything up well, put in a new shaft o-ring and all is well now. So in your case, could it be that the distributor internals/electronics are contaminated? aba4430