aba4430

I punched in the part number at 1stsubaruparts.com and this is what I got: 783052081, $36.95, $27.71, Electrical - Chassis electrical - Senders - TEMP SENDING UNIT, All Models 1984 783052081, $36.95, $27.71, Electrical - Chassis electrical - Senders - TEMP SENDING UNIT, Brat 1984 - 1987 783052081, $36.95, $27.71, Electrical - Instruments & gauges - FUEL GAUGE, All Models, w/o Hardtop 1984 At subaruparts.com, this is what I get: 783052081, Temperature Switch, $36.95, $28.16 Why don't you call and verify?

Matt, I replaced the WP on my 87 Brat a couple of months ago. It has the dealer installed AC unit. I used the ASC one from Advance (new, made in Japan). See link: http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=AIN&MfrPartNumber=WP580&PartType=54&PTSet=A The clearance between a cooling fan and the tip of the pulley is ~1/4". So I am not sure whether the water pump for a dealer installed unit is a shallow depth unit that gives you more clearance. Mine is fine though and has worked well for almost 2.5K miles so far. Regards, aba4430

Try part number 783052081 (Thermo Switch Assy) and 682146010 (Packing Thermo Sw).

Autozone axles should be OK. I have had remanufactured axles on my 87 Brat for several years now. Since we are on this topic, let me add the following: I replaced both the front axles (Advance Auto Parts) on my 87 Brat several years ago. Now the inner CV boot on the passenger side has bust. So I go to them yesterday and they do not have me on their system anymore for the axles. I asked why. They said after 5 or 6 years they purge their lifetime warranty items thinking that the owners have sold their vehicles etc. I said that I still had my receipt. So he ordered one for me on a defective exchange basis. Should have come in today. I will most likely get to this week-end after next. Regards, aba4430

Thanks. The dash has a decent size crack and I need one of these. Regards, aba4430

Folks, Anyone buy dash covers for their Brat from EBay? See link - the guy has these in a few colors (black, grey and this navy one). I am wondering whether it will fit my 1987 Brat. Its says that it is for 82-87 models?? Price appears to be reasonable. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7911261604&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT Regards, aba4430

Craven, Please ask and see if there is another one with rear disc set-up in the JY. Even though I just put in brand new rear brake shoes and all, rear disc sounds attractive at the right price. Regards, aba4430

You have PM. Thx, aba4430

Folks, I removed and cleaned the dome light switch contacts today. In the process I lost a spring or something from the switch lever. Is there a spring that pushes against a ball bearing to positively engage the switch to the right and left of the center position? However, looks like my driver's side door switch is responding again as opening the driver's seie door triggers the alarm again. So, in summary - both door switches are OK, but my dome light is messed up. Anyone with a spare blue or black EA82 dome light or any advise on how to fix the switch (is there a spring under the ball bearing)? Regards, aba4430

If your seals etc. are right and there are no leaks leading to slippage, then I also say that your flywheel was resurfaced too deep and you cannot compensate by adjusting the cable anymore. If the cable is adjusted correctly, then its time for a new flywheel. Regards, aba4430

Thanks for the leads. I will check the grounds. Have not upgraded to the EA82 type dome light however. I need to look into this. Regards, aba4430

Folks, Opening the drivers door does not turn on the dome light, but the telltale shows the door as open. Opening the passenger side door turns on the dome light (whether or not the drivers door is open), but the telltale does not indicate that the passenger door is open. Also, with the drivers door open, the drivers side telltale goes off with the passenger door open. Now when I push the passenger side door switch in (or close the passenger door) with the drivers door open, the dome light will go off, the drivers side telltale will show the drivers door as open (corroborates the first statement). I swapped the drivers side door switch with a new one last night and no change. Will swap out the passenger side switch today or tomorrow to see if this fixes it. Appreciate any leads. Regards, aba4430

You can install power locks to a DL quite easily. For reference I put an Excaliber AL1000 alarm and power locks on my 87 Brat sometime in 1997. I used 3 relays and set it up for driver's select unlocking, i.e. push the alarm undo once and driver's side unlocks and push it again and the passenger side unlocks. For the Brat with 2 doors, this was unnecessary really, you may consider this for your DL. Regards, aba4430

Beachbum, When you turn the AC on, does your rpm drop low? If so, and depending on how low, you might not have another issue to deal with. With the rpm's low, your voltmeter will bog down. I have the same problem with my 87 Brat. I need to get hold of the dealer installed AC technical details (Does anyone have this?) to see how to fix the idle up adjustment that is linked with the AC system. The system includes the vacuum switch on the passenger strut tower with two hoses, one from the firewall (via a t-connector) and one hose connecting to a diaphragm gizmo connected to the carb. See if this is your problem. As others have suggested, the starting/charging system should also be checked, just in case. Regards, aba4430

Folks, Phase One was clutch, cooling system and some gaskets. Phase Two was conversion of AC to R134A and for a couple of weeks now, it has worked well. Phase Three was undertaken yesterday and we (better half and me) accomplished the following: Installed the 234028 struts on our Brat (what is the torque specification on the piston rod bolt?) Turned the rotors and drums. Will resuse the front brake pads (almost like new), but will replace the rear brake shoes (between 1/16" to 1/8") left on the lining). Will also rebuild wheel cylinders. It is amazing, brake shops cannot turn the front rotors without taking the rotor off the hub. Since I had had a bad experience on my 1981 two door GL HB years ago, I told the guys not to remount the rotor on the hub and that I would do it. So this morning, I will progressively torque the rotors to the hubs to 42 ft-lbs. If you are not careful, you can warp the freshly turned rotors, and this will induce wheel shimmy during driving and braking. My rotors had to have been be warped quite a bit as the turning took quite a bit off the thickness. Next time I am sure, I will have to replace them. Trivial, but replaced two body clips that were missing on each side on the splash trim in the two front wheel wells. If anyone wants the Balkamp (NAPA) part numbers for the ones I used, I can get them (I do not have it handy now, it is in the garage - was for a GM application however). Replaced the right side tie rod end dust boot (had a brand new boot from my HB days). The round clip was a pain to install, but worked out in the end. I have two new TRW ball joints and will inspect the joints for play this morning and decide whether to replace. Next is to troubleshoot grounding and charging system problems. The voltmeter reads below 12 volts and this is driving me nuts. Waiting for stock front leading rod and stabilizer bushings. Thereafter, some miscellaneous work to make it look nice (waiting on front flaps to show up and a paint job etc.). So the Brat is almost there mechanically. I have used it as my daily driver for @1000 miles since doing the clutch job without concerns. Regards, aba4430

After I had purchased the 234028 and KG4183A's, noted on the board that there was a difference (height adjustability) between the stock 4WD struts and the 234028's. So I wrote to KYB to be sure that the 234028's would fit my Brat. My text is copied below: I have a 1987 Subaru Brat GL 4WD with dual range 4 speed manual transmission. I just installed your Gas-A-Just shocks (KG4183A). I also want to replace the front struts. What part number in the GR2 series will fit my truck? The KYB response is copied below: Use the KYB GR-2 series. Front # is 234028, strut mounts are SM5365 and the boots are # SB103 Thank you for the inquiry! Tim Oldiges KYB America LLC Product Manager 630-620-5555 E-Mail timkyb@attglobal.net Regards, aba4430

Folks, I installed the gas-a-just KG4183A's last week-end and just installed the GR2 # 234028 on the driver's side. About to start on the right side. Purchased them from http://www.macsspring.com/ The KG4183A's are $33.35 each and the 234028's are $62.93 each. Plus shipping is free with over $100 purchases. Speak to Michael Wagenstein - mike@macsspring.com I think his prices are quite good. Now one question: What is the torque specification for the strut piston nut. I know the others (two bolts to steering knuckle and the two bolts in the engine compartment all get torqued to 29 ft-lbs. Regards, aba4430

Your rotors are warped. Always get the shop to hand torque your lug nuts (if you take your car to a shop, that is). Regards, aba4430

Folks, I have been trying to determine whether my truck has an O2 sensor for a while now. I am convinced, it does not. What puzzles me is that I had one on my 1981 2 door hatchback GL with 1.8L. Any other 1987's out there with no O2 sensors? The parts manual (85-88, 1600, 1800 2D& MPV) indicates an O2 sensor (p/n's 469797110 or 22690AA000) for all models. So I am puzzled. Does not look like it was there once upon a time either! The housing and cover gaskets in the air filter housing have stretched and come off the housing and cover due to age and heat. Any ideas, on how to get around this. Should I make new gaskets and what glue should I use? I replaced the rear shocks on the Brat (Tockico originals) with KYB Gas-A-Just (KG4183A's) yesterday. I want to put a rear stabilizer on the truck some day as well. I have the KYB 234028's for the front and am waiting for ball joints and brake parts to come in and thereafter tackle all the front work together. I also want to replace the front stabilizer bar bushings. Does anyone have the diameter for the leading rod and front stabilzer bar handy? I am searching for urethane bushings to replace the stock ones with. Anyone want the original Tockico's, before I throw them away? The compression force (seat of pants based) upon pushing down appears only a tad less than the new KYB's, but similar for both shocks. Shocks still appear to be usable. I will clean them up and send it for shipping costs only. Let me know. Regards, aba4430

If the ac refrigerant charge is low, the compressor will not come on, but the fan should work. If the fan does not work, then you have to check the fuses for the fan and you say that the fuses are OK. If your fuses are OK, then you have to check the bower motor. For this, most likely, you will have to remove the bower motor from under the glovebox (most likely). I believe it is your blower motor. Regards, aba4430

Appreciate it. I will look into this seriously. aba4430

Can a speciality auto electrical shop modify the existing EA81 alternator to get higher output? Anyone tried this. The Beck & Arnley 186-0595 (XT6) is @$106 at Autozone? Perhaps I will have to bite the bullet and go this route for my 87 Brat. I have a serious problem with the dash voltmeter reading below 12 volts with everything on. Thx, aba4430

Thanks for the lead on the hoses. Is this any Goodyear tire place I need to go to and speak about replacement hoses? Regards, aba4430

My original R12 system stopped working sometime ago, so I verified that my compressor was OK by jumping it. Initially I wanted to do it the right way by replacing the o-rings and drier etc. After I disconnected the low side fitting on the compressor and noted that the o-ring was in good shape, I took the easy way out. I rented a vacuum pump this week-end for $20 and yesterday evacuated the system out or thought I was doing this anyways. Note that this was my first attempt at AC work. However, I did not check the guage readings for vacuum, just thought I was evacuating the system. I charged up a quick kit and went for a drive. The AC cooled to 38 degrees in no time and it felt great. I returned home and popped the hood open and could hear a hissing sound. Found out that the hose from the evaporator to the compressor had a good leak on it. So much for this attempt. However, called Advance and Autozone this morning and they do not carry replacement hoses and cannot even special order any. So I bought a Haynes AC book and also went to Home depot and bought a 5/8" 180 degree brass barbed hose fitting. I repaired the damaged hose by using the barbed fitting and 2 hose clamps. Then I evacuated the system again (high and low pressure sides). This time, the low pressure guage read about 28 on the vacuum side and the high pressure guage was below 0. Amazing, I wish I was more careful yesterday. Anyway, checked that there were no leaks by putting system under vacuum for 5 minutes and then evacuating again for 30 minutes (Haynes instructions). Thereafter I charged the system up with Ester oil, 2 cans of R134A and a 3 oz can of dye and leak sealer. The low pressure with the compressor running is @28 to 30 now and the car cools to ~40 degrees, albeit slowly. This is unlike yesterday, when the AC cooled rapidly to 38 degree - most likely related to the leak. Hopefully this will last me several months before crapping out. Eventual goal is to get a new drier, hoses and replace all o-rings. Now my question: Even with the R12 system, my idle would not increase when the AC was turned on. It is the same now - in fact the engine idle was set to ~750 rpm, it bogs a bit with the AC on. So I played around to see what the matter was. There is a vaccuum switch on the passenger strut tower with the AC relays. This switch has 2 ports, top and bottom. Can anyone tell me which port is for the hose from the firewall and which one connects to the AC related diaphragm gizmo on the carb? The gizmo on the carb has a lazy L rod sticking out to the front - this rod was not engaging the throttle arm at all. With some force I could move the rod in and it would spring back, but the vacuum on the hose is quite weak and with the AC on, I could not see the rod moving in. So I greased the rod a bit to free it up, no luck. I pushed the throttle back manually and was able to turn the lazy L thing to engage the throttle arm. I adjusted the idle up to 1000 rpm, to reduce the bogging of the engine. I am sure there is a way to adjust the AC gizmo on the carb. It has an adjustment screw on the back side. The bogging of the engine is not the only problem, with everything on, the dash voltmeter reads a measly 8 to 10 volts and I am sure this is not good. With or without the AC, this has been a problem. The best I have had the dash voltmeter read is ~11.5 volts. Does anyone have the instructions for a dealer installed AC set-up? Appreciate it. aba4430

There is a sheet metal pan on the underside of the housing. I just did my clutch, but do not remember whether the two bolts go from the underneath of the car to secure it. A quick look will confirm this. If so, see if you can undo these bolts and remove the sheet metal plate (the flywheel bottom may prevent this, am not sure). If the piece was real small, then you may be able to pry it out (unless there is not much clearance between the flywheel & disc) or it will not matter as it will just be sitting there. It had to have fallen on the transmission side, between the flywheel & disc. However, like many have said, rotate the crankshaft manually and see whether the there are any scraping/grinding noises. If none and you have tried some things, would not worry..... Regards, aba4430