aba4430

Update: Drove the Brat to work yesterday. The new drive shafts cured the knocking sounds I was hearing upon deceleration. However, I am getting the (moderate) steering wheel vibration at 55 to 65 mph. This vibration is not consistent, but there for the most part. Next, I intend to torque the leading rod nut to ~27 ft-lbs, and get the front tires balanced. The front brake pad shims also need to be replaced as these appeared funky. If these do not cure the vibration/shimmy, then I will accelerate the replacement of the tie rods (inner and outer) - need to buy OEM boots, already have new OEM rings to secure them.

I just bought a pair of front bearing kits for my 87 Brat at @$32.30 plus shipping, from Subaruparts.com. Still need to install. However, this price was with a 15% discount. I bought a lot of tid-bits and the shipping did not bother me. However, each kit includes a pair of bearings and seals, packaged in a box . I thought the price was excellent. You might want to check what the bearing kits cost for the EA82.

OK, thanks.

Just put the 87 Brat together. New stabilizer, control arm, leading rod to stabilizer and leading rod bushings installed. Also installed new front rotors, ball joints and new GSP front drive shafts. I also have inner and outer tie rods, but no boots - need to order these. Hence will tackle another time. Things went together OK, but I had trouble with the leading rod to stabilizer bar bushings on the first side I tried (left side). I was trying to install the bushings after having the leading rod to control arm bolts fastened, was a no-go. Then took a break yesterday and went back to work this morning on the right side. Left the leading rod and the two large bushings/grommets loosely secured to the body and free of the control arm. Was able to easily secure the stabilizer bar bushing to the leadfing rod. Went back and fixed the left side thereafter, One question: I cannot find a torque setting for the leading rod nut. This is the single nut that fastens the leading rod, grommet, through body bracket, grommet, large concave washer, then the nut. The nut is turned very easily, but I did not want to bottom it out. I turned it until I could see 7 complete threads on each side. This is a temporary fix until I find the correct torque setting. Would appreciate any leads on this. HTKYSA does have a torque setting of 60 ft-lbs on page 334, but this value seems way too high.

Look at the KYB application catalog. SB108 is the correct P/N based on the catalog. http://showmetheparts.com/kyb/

The rear strut boot for a Loyale 4WD or 2WD is KYB SB108, per the KYB catalog. They do not have a P/N for the 4WD front, but the 2WD fronts are SB105's. Check Amazon for the SB108's.

For the price of two drums, you could convert to rear disc brakes. Kits do pop up in the sale section here from time to time. Just an idea. RockAuto has some decent prices on BA rear drums at closeout prices. However, when ordering more than a single closeout item from RA, you have to keep your fingers crossed and hope you get matched items.

FYI: This is another good source with decent prices. Good luck with your repairs. Try and read the "How To Keep Your Subaru Alive" manual prior to trying repairs. It is an excellent guide and explains repairs well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder/slide-show/1983/Subaru/GL?ie=UTF8&brand=KYB&carId=011&partsNode=2286889011

I believe the Subaru lugs are M12 X 1.25. This is probably what you need, if replacing all: http://www.amazon.com/McGard-84554-Chrome-Installation-Thread/dp/B0006HOW9C/ref=au_pf_pfg_s?ie=UTF8&Make=Subaru%7C13&Model=Legacy%7C64&Year=2000%7C2000&carId=007&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive Note however, the standard lug wrench (19 mm) may not fit; these use a 13/16" lug wrench.

With pressure dropping and the OP hearing ticking, not sure it is the sensor. Not saying that the sensor has the resolution and accuracy of a fine instrument! OP, are there any leaks? Are you burning oil? Have you done a compression test? What grade of oil are you using? On my 87 Brat, with 10W-30, it is at ~the 70 psi mark at start-up and drops to at or a bit above 50 when warm and driving. At warm and idle, it is at ~25 psi. With the 20W-50 that I am running now, it is at 75 psi (actually appears pegged) during startup and close to half way between 50 and 75 during warm and driving. It is above 25 when at warm and idle. Hopefully, you are just using a thin grade of oil and nothing has been damaged as yet.

So I started off thinking I would replace the passenger side drive axle and be done with it. However, noted the ball joint boots were ripped and the joints felt loose, so I have ordered NAPA (Altrom) ball joints. Will also take care of stabilizer bar, leading rod bushings - have OEM ones. Also noted a crack on the outside braking surface of the right front rotor, so both rotors are also being replaced with NAPA rotors. I also want to replace the control arm bushings while I have things torn apart, have OEM ones for replacement. However, spent a lot of time trying to get one side out yesterday, with no luck. I was using a vice and appropriate size sockets, and barely managed to budge the bushing. What type of press (this will be a new tool to my collection) would I need to press the control arm bushings and install new ones? Any advice or leads appreciated.

1 806727170 OIL SEAL 27X45X9 $3.95 $3.95 1 806727180 OIL SEAL - 27X45X9 $3.95 $3.95 Understand. Have both (Subaruparts.com). Now to figure out what socket I need to get the retainer off.

OK, will get better pictures prior to moving forward.

Will pull it out and take it to the shop to put a weld bead around. There are a couple of sections with the cracks.

This is a picture of the crack.

In the process of replacing my front driveshafts and noticed the right control arm has cracks on the front facing side. Believe the cracks are in the welded area. I guess this needs to be replaced? Anyone else experience this? The arm is still on the car. The ball joints (TRW, bought in 2005) are also shot, so will need replacing, plus I have the OEM control arm bushings, but don't want to replace prior to firming up the fate of the control arm?

The left (driver's) axle stub seal on my 87 Brat is leaking. What type of socket/tool did you use? I am doing both axles, and would like to take care of this today! Thx, aba4430

Looking to replace front wheel bearings and the SOA part number is 699901010. The description in the parts manual states, bearing and oil seal kit and quantity of two per car. On-line prices are @$37 per item, which is excellent if it includes two bearings and seals. Anyone know whether I need to order two of these, one for each side or 4. Want to be sure prior to ordering. Thx, aba4430

The drivers side sun visor on our 08 OBS was replaced under warranty as the pivot mechanism (flip up and down) had broken. However, the original sun visor could not be infinitely adjusted within the up and down range, but just at two or three set positions, and it was difficult to get the right adjustment. The replacement one can be adjusted and holds at any position within the range. The passenger one has not broken, but has the two or three fixed position adjustment, though is not that bothersome, as it does not get used much. In your case, if you are out of warranty on your 09, call SOA and let them know of your problem. They are known to make Goodwill adjustments for their customers. SOA CS is tops. I commend their CS, as we recently (April, 2012) put on our "brand new in box roof rack" on our 2008 OBS that we had sitting around since we bought the car new. Everything was installed correctly, but the first time the car was driven, the rear crossbar rubber insert flew off. My better half noticed additional wind noise immediately, but did not think much about it. Then at lower speeds, there was a certain severe resonance due to some looseness within the front cross bar. We called SOA and explained our situation, and they were kind enough to replace our 08 roof rack with the upgraded one from 09 or 10 forwards. Some more information than what is called for in this post, but if you have a problem with a newer car that might have recently gone out of warranty, call them and see what they can do for you.

87 Brat - Changed oil and filter (Valvoline Maxlife HM 20W-50 and Purolator Pure One). Retorqued the headbolts. Should have done it 2000 miles ago. The L side is a PITA with the AC compressor and brackets etc. Also used a thick Craftsman philips head screw driver and retightened the oil pan bolts. Most bolts were quiite loose. However, everything is put back together.

We have a white one (bought new in 02/94) with 5 speed and @192K miles, that my son drives. Have a black one with auto that my brother bought brand new in 05/94 and gave it to us in 2004. This one has @182K miles and my daughter drives it. I will take these cars anywhere. They are superb vehicles.

10-4. Cannot complain about their CS at all. That is why I continue to use them.

My personal experience with Rockauto has overall been quite good. There have been several hiccups however. Please note the foillowing: When I bought intake and exhaust valves for my Brat last year, I bought the B&A ones on closeout as they were really cheap. Also believe these were the only ones listed. The intakes (Japan) came and were all matching, the exhausts (also Japan) were mismatches. I am sure functionally they would have worked, but 2 were shiny SS looking, and two were dark amorphous grey in color. I called them up and it was a hassle to get them to understand why I was being nit-picky about matching valves. Once I spoke to a supervisor, she understood and sent me two replacements. This time, the replacements were physically different. I called them again, they sent me 4 new ones. I was able to match up 4 exhausts out of the 10 I received, and all was well. Next, I ordered two front rotors for the Brat, also on closeout. One was made in Italy and one somewhere else, but there were physical differences in the casting, and the weights were different. I sent both back. Recently, I ordered rear loaded B&A calipers (for a 87 RX coupe) for my rear disc conversion. One came fine, one with a rusted body. Both were unused, remanufactured and in boxes. They sent me a replacement which is fine. I did not even have to send back the one with the surface body rust. I have also received mismatched brake lines from them for our pair of 1994 Altima SE's. Moral of the story is if you have patience to deal with them, then go all out for closeout parts, be prepared for some aggravation. In conversations with them however, I have been notified that in order to receive proper parts, right the first time, order only from normal stock, not closeouts. Closeout parts are leftovers and manufacturers/suppliers such as B&A and Moog change sources in the life cycle of parts they furnish, and it is quite easy to end up with mismatched parts. I continue to use them, but avoid items when the inventory reflects a few closeout pieces left.

Make sure the box end wrench does not loosen the bolt it is on, while you are trying to torque down the crank pulley bolt, especially if you are "wailing (sp)" on the crank pulley bolt. From HTKYSA. "Step 2. Install Crankshaft Pulley. Smear oil on the smooth shiny seal surface of the crank pulley. Align the groove inside the pulley with the woodruff key, then slide the pulley onto the crank. Install the pulley bolt and washer and snug them down. Use the socket and ratchet to rotate the crank so you can lock it in position with a punch or phillips screwdriver (Procedure 3, Step 1). Torque the pulley nut to 40 ft. lb., then remove the punch or phillips screwdriver from the timing hole." As indicated in the replies above, push a punch or good round (philips head) screw driver into timing hole. The screw driver is stout enough, and 40 ft-lbs. is not going to bother it.

A couple of bikes for sure. The straight section is ~19", bars will be ~17" apart, I think; for reference the Thule cross bars on my son's Nissan Altima are ~23.5" apart, and we can carry a Thule roof box with ease. Two bikes are no issues as well. Thx, aba4430