aba4430

Folks, I want to go with the Thule system for my 87 Brat. They make three heights - 5" (low), 8" (high) and 12" (super high) feet kits. Will the 5" work? Want to stay with the lowest height that will work. The fun tops might not clear the low mount, but that is not important to me. Regards, aba4430

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=130327 On EA81's, you can see it through the left front speaker opening (left of column on dash). Of course, you will take the speaker out if it is there. Anyway, the above thread will give you a general idea of the flasher location.

Tranny should be covered under the powertrain warranty until 60K miles. Not sure whether this is 5 years, 60K - I think it is. If the car was maintained etc. properly, then have the dealer take care of it under warranty.

I do not think shipping from FL (if that is what you meant) would be too much. A USPS box with two calipers and brake pads should be no more than 12 dollars. If interested, let me know, as these are just sitting here.

Folks, Getting ready to line the Brat bed with herculiner. However, want to treat the various surface rust scratches etc., prior to application of the liner. What are the recommendations. Will use a light rust remover 3M wheel and then treat the rust with the appropriate chemical. Am considering the following two items. Any feedback is appreciated: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81773-Treatment-Filler-Compatible/dp/B000HBNX38/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GGMLQE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A23ADOZFIJNPFB Not sure whether local stores carry POR 15. I know NAPA carries the Permatex stuff: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7651232_0361163858 The Herculiner kit seems to be preferred here over the others. Thx, aba4430

I can sell you the rear calipers (off an 87 RX coupe) only with very good pads that I have left over from a recent purchase of a kit from a member here. I went with rebuilt calipers. On the other hand, you could pick up loaded calipers for the rear from RA for a decent price. Send me a PM if interested.

Brat's getting a new battery. Story is as follows: Upon checking our 2008 OBS out prior to a weekend trip to UF (Gainesville, FL) last weekend, noted that the OBS (Subaru) battery was leaking slightly - no damage to the metal support etc. The plastic battery tray was doing its job. Hence transferred the relatively new Autocraft Gold (ADP) battery from the Brat into the OBS, such that we could travel. Upon return, ordered the Optima. Will install in the Brat instead. Side note: I ordered through AMZN, but ADP has a $50 coupon on batteries, and there is also a $25 Optima rebate - form available on the Optima website. From ADP, this could be had for @$125 - $135 after coupon and rebate. Not sure rebate will be applicable to AMZN purchases, but the price is @$142 at AMZN. Battery came in excellent condition.

I got the same tires from Walmart in January. They are reasonable, long wearing tires. Due to the prices, check out your local stores, might not be worth going to DTD on this one. Here is the Wallyworld link: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kumho-1906313/19473787 With respect to service at Walmart, I have had no problems. They did a fine job on the Brat with these tires. I have also taken the wheels off my 08 OBS and had them dismount and install 4 Conti tires that I took in (bought from DTD). They did a great job on those as well.

Did not know the 08 WRX came with 205/50-17's, same as the ones on our 08 OBS. However, I upgraded to the Conti DWS in size 225/45-17's on the OBS and they are super. They will cost you @$130 each though with the current promo at Discount Tire Direct, free shipping.

Is the red one also a SVX? Hope this is found.

I bought this kit from Amazon for @$25. Still to install, however (once I source the right 13" wheels). It has gone up in price now. However, includes lugs, locks and tire valves. They also sell this for 5- and 6-lug set-ups. Your standard lug wrench may not work with these. http://www.amazon.com/McGard-84454-Chrome-Installation-Thread/dp/B000A8JD1O/ref=sr_1_11?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1336733367&sr=1-11

Took out a quarter of a tank only? Are you sure your gas gauge is reading correctly. See if the gas gauge is stuck. Sometimes they read funny, but normalize eventually and give correct readings. Anyway, some options here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder/slide-show/1987/Subaru/GL/ref=au_pf_pfg_s?ie=UTF8&Model=GL%7C59&Make=Subaru%7C13&Year=1987%7C1987&vehicleType=5&brand=&partsNode=15735781&carId=017

Replaced the alternator under warranty from AZ yesterday. The old one was from AZ and installed in 2007 (previous to this was the original purchase from AZ in 1999). The flickering of lights that I noted upon installation of the fused positive cable last week-end, has gone away. Now to continue to work on the low voltage problem. The old alternator failed with lights, AC on during in-car testing, but passed on the bench. The replacement alternator came with a double pulley, but it clears my AC drive and hence I did not swap it out. I will pull my instrument cluster etc. to further narrow down my low (in-cab) voltage problems. Separately, have been reading up on the Maxima swap. Does AC Delco make decent new alternators? I can get a new AC Delco Maxima alternator for a good price. However, need to fix the voltage issues first. The fused positive cable from the alternator to the battery that I installed this past weekend has certainly improved electrical performance to a small extent. This is evident with a slight increase in in-cab voltage reading, better idle quality with lights and AC on and no tendency to cut-off randomly, in the past two days.

Some manual trannys do specify auto transmission fluid. An example is my 98 Z3 that came from the factory with auto tranny fluid. When I got it in 2009, I drained the fluid out and refilled with Mobil 1 75W-90 LS. The specs over the years for the Z3 were updated to use gear oil in the tranny. Not sure whether the SHO specifies auto tranny fluid - would not change to gear oil prior to verification.

Now, I have not done anything to the stock wiring. The stock cable from the positive of the alt. to the battery via the stock fusible link was not touched. Is this a bad idea, i.e. running a wire directly to the battery positive, while leaving the stock wiring intact? I am not sure this is a problem. I will do detailed voltage checks next weekend.

For next time: If you pack the pump with vaseline prior to installation, it primes quite well. Good job, anyways.

Ran a direct cable from the stock alternator to the battery positive via a 100 A mini ANL today. Used 8 gauge Streetwires cable that I was hoarding from several years ago. The other components were from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-MANL100-Mini-Fuses/dp/B0047XW8YW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335752859&sr=8-1 http://www.amazon.com/DB-Link-MANLFH1-Mini-Holder/dp/B001NCDARY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1335752859&sr=8-3 I believe the AC blower works better. However, no effect on the dash voltmeter, it still reads low. Also, just noticed that all the lights (dash, headlamps, tail lamps, fog lamps) were flickering at idle, and even at 1800 to 2000 rpm. I believe I have a bum AZ alternator (bought several years ago). Will have to start reading up on the Maxima swap now. One clarification, prior to running the cable directly to the battery, I had never noted the flicker.

Beautiful wagon.

The outer spring appears to be inverted.

Does an intake valve spring on the head on the left appear to be installed wrong???

Installed a new Airtex (Kyosandenki) fuel pump and Hitachi coil on my 87 Brat today. I had to dremel a corner of the shelf attached to the new fuel pump such that it would clear the fuel filter bracket.

I was quoted $90 for base work on two Gen2 heads, here in FL. I believe the base work included hydro testing, cleaning and machining. I also got a valve job etc., and the total was $180 for the two heads. A bit steep, but worth it. Plus I provided intake and exhaust valves, sleeves, seals and keepers. Brat is finally the daily driver and I have put on 2000 miles since the HG replacement over Christmas. $90 sounds reasonable.

Not sure whether you have the EA81 or EA82. The EA81's (not sure of the EA82's) use seals only on the intake valves.

Low miles, no rust, excellent mechanically (?) and cosmetically: NADA values are as follows (zip 32571): Original MSRP $8,842; Low Retail $2500; Average Retail $3350; High retail $4650 If you really like it go for the best deal, but be flexible at the same time, or you may not get it.

5 to 6 seconds to fire up might be longer than typical. "Slower than typical" cranks before fire up in 30 deg. weather is typical. Was your car garaged or parked outside? The standard battery might be rated at 550 CCA, which may be just adequate. I would enjoy the car and watch starting behavior over the next few days, and in warmer weather as well, before considering taking it to the dealer.