aba4430

Another idea for general work under the car (if wheels do not need to be removed) is to get a couple of pairs of Rhino ramps such as these: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product__6011659-P_N3400_T%7CGRP2042____ You can get two pairs for a great deal now, and with a code such as ES123, right at $50. However, I often will drive the Brat (also done this with our Expedition 4WD) up on 2 pairs ramps carefully and can inspect and work under the car easily. I have also jacked up the rear end of cars on which the rear ramps cannot be placed due to the height of the stop on the ramp, and put ramps instead of jackstands, so that all 4 wheels are lifted.

Checked the horns out today. Unplugged both and rapped/slapped the fronts a few times. Connected both and reinstalled. They actually sound great. Hence, did not replace.

Glad you and the car are fine. Swapped my brake hoses out in 2009, a few months before a heater hose bust due to CV boot grease softening it up, leading to HG failure. Change your brake hoses. Cheap insurance. Change out heater hoses as well.

Thanks, will check out the connections and horns first. Regards, aba

Getting ready to check the horn operation on my Brat, it is really puny. However, picked up a pair of Fiamm's (<$20) in case I need to replace the original ones. There are very few posts on the Fiamm's here. I have a new Bosch relay somewhere at home, and am prepared to use a relay for the horns, but will not if unnecessary. I have two questions: How do I remove the trapezoidal horn button (steering wheel trim button) to check the horn switch? Does it just pry off? Is the original circuit adequate for wiring up the pair of horns, or is a relay mandatory? I realize the horn is used on a momentary basis, hence questioning the need for a relay! Thanks folks. aba

See post 15 for some leads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=130523

Some leads for replacement fuel pumps, in case you need a new one - I bought this one at ADAP for <$40 (with coupon). It is a Airtex boxed Kyosandenki pump from Japan (see picture). My original pump is not bad and the truck is working well. So I am keeping the new one as a spare. The Kyosandenki has the OEM connector, shelf and all, and is ready to bolt in. My problem was a 1/4 tank of gas that had been in for 2.5 years. I just replaced my HGs (over Christmas) and got the truck back on the road, so started having some trouble due to the old fuel. Had to replace the filters, and some lines. The vapor separator is usually full as visible in the engine compartment (few large bubbles visible at the top, after I shut the car off). I am probably still getting some crap from the tank, as it continues to clean out, based on intermittant idle issues.

Yes, Advance does have some very good deals, and I shop tons at Advance. The 15% off of $100 plus $50 off of another $100, adds upto $65 off of $200, or $32.50/$100. Advance's individual coupons like you find on on the following link, works out better in many instances.... http://www.techbargains.com/stores/4240/Advance-Auto-Parts-deals I usually try some until I get the best deal for what I really want, not pile up stuff as fillers to make the minimum $100 or whatever.....

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_seeall_1?rh=k%3Athrush+muffler%2Ci%3Aautomotive&keywords=thrush+muffler&ie=UTF8&qid=1329084492#/ref=sr_nr_p_4_0?rh=k%3Athrush+muffler%2Cn%3A15684181%2Cp_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_4%3AThrush&bbn=15684181&keywords=thrush+muffler&ie=UTF8&qid=1329084497&rnid=49681011 Thrush mufflers at Amazon. Pretty decent deals with free S&H with >/= $25.

Look under your car. You will see a rubber tube/hose stick out from the firewall (passenger side on the EA81's) and point to the ground (8 to 12" long). On the EA81, it connects to the outlet tube of the HVAC box above the passenger footwell inside the car. A bit difficult to describe.

Do you have AC? Check for the condensate drain line to be functional, and properly connected to the drain outlet. If it is blocked, you could get water dumping inside your cabin, very slowly...

Installed the new flasher unit, but left the original one in, unplugged. Used a cable tie and tied it securely to a bundle of wires.

Thanks. I just took care of the fuse contact. The contacts are good and I was able to push the terminal and lock it in place. The fuse appears secure now. But your idea is good and if it gives me any more trouble, this is what I will do. Now that I have everything apart, I want to change out my turn signal/flasher relay. Not that it does not work, but I bought a new one in the hope that the amp draw would be less and it might take care of the volt meter bouncing when the turn signals are on. I have located the flasher and am having trouble taking it off the metal bracket to which it is attached. Any idea, as to how it comes off its bracket? OrI might just leave the original 'Niles" one in and try the replacement. Going out to get some pictures and will post shortly. OK, here is a picture looking through the left dash speaker grill. You can also see my alarm module to the left of the flasher.

Folks, One of the (upper) fuse contacts for the radio/fan (15A) fuse is pushed totally in and the upper fuse blade will not make contact. I am getting ready to tackle this today. Not worried about the radio as my aftermarket unit is fused independently. However, this fuse effects the A/C, blower and radiator fans. This happened over a period of time (few years), and I was able to rock the fuse into position enough such that it would make contact, and everything would work. However, early this past week, it got pushed way in and its a no-go now. Are the contacts easily worked on from behind the fuse panel? I don't think it will be difficult. Any leads, appreciated. Thx, aba

FYI - Just picked up a Hitachi (Made in Japan) from Amazon for <$33. Here is the link: http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-W0133-1628608-HIT-Ignition-Coil/dp/B001HLZ6JG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1327752524&sr=8-1 My existing, original coil is not bad at all, but I was troubleshooting starting issues and purchased a few additional parts in case... Will install the new one and keep the original as a spare. However, universal recommendation here is to stay stock.

If you not see concrete evidence of leaks, then there should not be a problem. Perhaps the fluid levels were not checked frequently enough and you noted low brake fluid one day. As your brakes wear out, the fluid level in the reservoir will go down. Not sure if this is the case here. If it was totally empty when you noticed this and filled it back up, you should bleed the system. Did the warning lamp alert you to the brake problem?

What do you mean by you could not find a noticeable leak? Any brake fluid leak is a problem! Have you removed the drums (assuming you have stock brakes in the rear) and verified no leaking wheel cylinders and no wetness within?

http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-178-8082-Ignition-Coil/dp/B000CB1Y2U/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Model=Brat%7C54&n=15684181&s=automotive&Make=Subaru%7C13&Year=1987%7C1987&carId=001 Ordered a replacement coil for the 87 Brat: Initially went with the B&A coil from Amazon (see link above), but it came dented and also has a statement on the case "use with a resistor"; not sure about this, so will return. Just ordered this Hitachi coil below after browsing for alternatives. The Amazon application guide does not list it for the Brat, but cross checking other sites indicates that it should be a suitable OEM equivalent replacement. As a side, after I replaced the fuel hoses and filters this past weekend, the Brat has started the first time during the past couple of days. http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-W0133-1628608-HIT-Ignition-Coil/dp/B001HLZ6JG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1327464409&sr=1-1

Mugs, Can you add some details on the type of bottle and location? Thx, aba

Latest work on the 87 Brat: Yesterday, fixed my passenger side power lock (I had installed these in the 90's, still going strong). The actuator rod was not grabbing the OEM rod as the screws had come loose. Tightened the screws and all is well. Last weekend, replaced a cracked glovebox cover, driver's under dash panel and door speaker grills with pristine ones I had picked up in a VA Wreck yard. Today, replaced the fuel filters with Subaru ones, fuel supply hoses in the engine compartment and under the car, and a few other emission and fuel returns with 5/16" Gates hoses. Had only @1.5' 1/4" hoses, so could not get all the smaller ones done. The Brat was getting very difficult to start, so this is the first thing I did. Seems to have helped based on easier starts this evening. Will monitor this week. The fuel pump and ignition coils are original. Have ordered OEM comparable replacements. Also ordered a set of lug nuts/locks and new wheel studs. The threads on most are getting mangled up. http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-BD60987-Wheel-Lug-Stud/dp/B000CQRN1G/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Model=Brat%7C54&n=15684181&s=automotive&Make=Subaru%7C13&Year=1987%7C1987&carId=001 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A8JD1O/ref=pe_175190_21431760_cs_sce_dp_1 Other than being difficult to start for a couple of weeks, everything is well. The 2.5 years of sitting with a quarter tank of gas might be haunting me now. However, have run @2.5 tanks through since the HG replacement. Should straighten out soon.

Way ahead of its its time. Work of art.

Reviving an old thread: When I popped the hood this evening with the car on, I noted that my oil filler cap was rattling. It was on proper, but the gasket has shrunk over the years. Did a quick search and stumbled upon this thread. Any generic alternatives? The SOA p/n is 803935010. Need to get one.

87 Brat - Bought new 185/70R13 tires (Kumho Solus KR21) and got rid of the front end shimmy/vibrations, completed the 300 mile (actually @400 miles) torqueing of head bolts, post head gasket replacement; changed oil/filter, fixed a useless ground (corrosion) just to the front of where the inboard battery hold down rod hook goes into the rail. Folks might want to check this ground (black wire, ~16 or 18 gauge; not sure what it is for), but I am surprised I had not seen it before, it is just below the battery on the frame rail.

Check your 4WD selector switch under the select lever trim. Either the switch is bad or (not sure of this) it is positioned incorrectly.

OK, thanks GD. Will tighten some more.