lewisd

thanks for the inputs, will post later in for sale section and localy with pics and more details.

Well, looks like it's time to give her up. She's been good to us but I don't have time to spend wrenching on her and funds are better spent on something newer and less mileage. Got a great deal on a 2012 Sienna and looking to either get a few bucks out of her or donate to charity or junkyard. KBB says maybe $718.... It runs but has couple items needing addressing. Tired of trying to get through Marylands emission test (CEL) light. looking for opinions.

sounds somewhat similar to my problem recently. have you checked all the fuses, under hood and under dash by kickpanel? I had the "illum" 10amp fuse out and I had no dash lights/icons, no gauges worked, no interior fan, and 12 volt reading while running and not charging properly. replaced that and had 14V at battery charging and all back to normal.

I know the 6 cylinder has been timing chain but today while car shopping the salesman said he thinks they changed the 4 cylinders over to chain as well. I didn't want to debate with him so I just wanted to make sure. did the the 2.5 switch over to chain in past couple years or do I still know what I'm talking about? I was looking at a pearl white 2010 forester with 45k miles for 17,200.

Problem appears fixed. Cougar was correct. I thought I pulled and checked all the fuses but I double checked fuses in the kickpanel side and found the 10 amp illumination fuse was blown. I didn't think it would stop interior fan function, temp sensor and gas gauge. Thought it was just illumination. I measure 14.14V now at the alternator output now. ANyhow, thank you Cougar and everyone else for your help!

Thank you Cougar, I'll look into that tomorrow.

No warning lights come on when switching ignition to on position. I measure 12.4V at alternator back connector. I noticed under the dash, a green connector which was disconnected and when I connected it, the engine cooling fans would kick on and off consistently with ignition switch in accessory on position (before turning over motor) so I disconnected it again. They do turn on and off when motor is running normally. I used NAPA's battery tester that also has charging system check feature and it says "no output" from charging system. I'll go and try another exchange before going to dealership parts dept. My wife uses it to drive to/from work which isn't far so I'm putting a battery charger/maintainer on in evening so it should be good enough for short round-trip.

99 legacy wagon, 306,000 miles. Original Alternator gave out last fall and had alternator and battery replaced when car died on road. symptoms where speedo quit, no other gauges worked (temp and gas) and typical slow drain of battery. Alternator replaced with NAPA premium battery and worked fine. fast forward to today. same symptoms and swapped alternator out under warranty. their system checker says battery good but charging system no output. I checked all fuses I can find. any suggestions?

you say "newer motor". do you mean newer in the forester as in already swapped or newer than your 92 legacy motor? Also you're motor should be non-interference and his is interference motor. I personally would keep your 92 especially if the mileage is not to far apart. You know your car better and you may end up with his problems. odd that he wants to trade down, so to speak. Maybe I'm just to paranoid and untrusting when comes to used cars unless I really know what I'm getting into.

It took me a while but I was able to do my 99 2.2 legacy's thanks to all the advice and help here. Like GrossGary said, the 22 mm crank bolt can be tough. I used extension on my breaker bar and got hefty torque ratchet bar from Harbor freight to tighten back on. I've got 75,000 on it since. Good luck

Okay, I'll hold off for now and see how it does after little test driving. the hardline to softline nut is being stubborn anyways and I don't want to strip it and replace that as well. I'm gonna get the laser pinpoint temp gun to have handy to see if there is much difference on wheel/rotor temps after driving. thanks fellas.

pads were replaced not to long ago so not enough time to see uneven wear yet and caliper is brand new (NAPA). So here is update. I have car up on four jackstands, put it in neutral and the passenger side rotor spins slowly but right side obviously is being held still. same when in drive, passenger side spins at good pace but drivers side not so. I pulled caliper back to push piston back in while cracking open bleeder valve at same time. didn't help. but when I let it run in idle or drive and crack open up the bleeder valve it lets it spin again. Also I noticed that while it is running in idle or drive and I press on the brake just slightly, there is a "sweet spot" that does something to let the rotor spin freely like passenger side. So my thinking is either collapsed hose as a result of recent tie rod, and wheel bearing work when I moved whole caliper around or something or it could be dealing with master cylinder not letting fluid back in. but other noise I have been hearing appears to be on passenger side around the cv axle spinning. not the typical outside joint knocking while turning but closer to the inner joint while going straight and turning right. I'll focus on that again once I get my brake operating properly. till next time

alright, I'll try those tips. thanks fellas

THanks for responses fellas. yeah, sound goes away when I bank to the left and stays when I bank to the right. That's what I figure is bearing. haven't checked the rear cause i swear it sounds like the front. Shop that did it for me in the past did it again. I asked him to check the hub to just in case. said everything appeared fine. I don't have pulsing when braking so I don't think it's the rotor. but my rotor is getting warm. maybe raise car off all fours on jack stands and let car run in idle? listen, check for noise then?

replaced the left side bearing. The brake lines are original so I may swap them out. the new caliper worked fine when I first replaced it and test drove it until I put everything back together after the bearing was done today and did another test drive. watching youtube right now for troubleshooting ideas as well.