xenongod

Got a '81 Subaru GL Wagon...and on the dash I have that picture of a top view of the car with all the idiot lights coming on at one time or other. The voltmeter shows 12 volts pretty much the whole time I have the heater blower...headlights...parking lights...stereo...and engine running. Every once in a while...most or all of the idiot lights and the voltmeter warning lights come on. If I turn off the engine and restart it...the lights all go out and don't come back on for a while. What do you think the problem could be? Any input will be greatly appreciated...take it easy.

Nothing most likely...most generic power steering fluids are the about the same as Automatic Transmission Fluid...which I think is what is called for on Subaru power steering units. I know anything and everything about fluids and oils for cars...managed a fast lube for five years...with another eight years of light duty mechanical work...including engine pulls...etc....so..anyhoo...you should be fine...no worries. I don't have power steering...gotta use my muscles to steer...hehhe...take care.

I named her Diamond before I even knew that they put out a model for the Ski Team that they called Black Diamond. Anyhoo...yah...it looks rust-free...but that's becuase I treated all of the rust with POR-15 and used cosmetic items from JC Whitney to cover up all the cancer holes...a lot easier and cheaper than cutting and welding..which is what I thought my first choice was going to be to restore it. Check my website..hit the "WWW" at the bottom of this post to read up on it...truely a wonderful machine...and she his home today because snow is in the forecast....woohoooo. And...yes...I do have a push bar...came off of a '84 Brat...bought it using my change jar money...I was broke at the time but really wanted it...really had to do some customizing (sledgehammer) to make it work...but it's on..and on good...hehe. Take care.

Pretty soon Estes Park/Rocky Mountain National Park area will be blanketed with snow...so...it will probably be snowed over or muddy. Anyhoo...sure...in any condition...I'm in...my Diamond kicked butt in the last Spring blizzard...therefore...make a place and time...hopefully a weekend...and I will try to be there.

Maybe a good time to start teach my 2 year old the gift of giving.....hahah...yah right...all she knows is "MINE....MINE". Possibly though...it's on a Saturday...I have Diamond out on weekends or snow days. Maybe people from the first annual Subaru meet at Red Rocks/Morrison will show up. It's been a while since we got together.

They reside in the starter solenoid...hang out...smoke cigs and drink beer in there. Now that the hammer man scared them out...beware...they probably ventured off to another circuit....hahha. Just kiddin'...ya...I totally 100% agree..replace whole starter..easier than replacing just the solenoid...good luck..God Bless.

Take a computer cooling fan...attach it to top of carb...wire it to a toggle switch...flip it on when you need a little more air. A friend did it to my old Chevy 350 with a Carter 600cfm carb on it...and believe it or not...it gave it a slight boost when needed. Probably cost you less than 5 bucks to fabricate.

Here's the link to my web page: http://operationmindcrime.us/xenon/

The problem lies within the switch itself...you might want to consider replacing it.

But...has anyone come up with a remote controlled axial light...meaning a light that turns like an eyeball...by remote? My brother is in robotics..and I..well...have a full-functioning passing light. Gonna put our heads together and come up with something unique. Maybe even remote it to a XT steering rod sensor and have it turn with the car...like a Tucker...I think. Anyhoo...Trick or Treat...smell my feet...give me a Jeep to eat...haha.

My '81 AWD Wagon has LSD...and I have to say...traction galore...big time. Drives like a tank when in AWD...doesn't get stuck in four feet of snow even...totally rocks when needed. So...that's what is special about LSD...you asked...hehe.

Becuase synthetic fluids/oils are more refined means that the molecules will be closer together...also meaning that if you have any leaks whatsoever on the transmission now...it will leak more with synthetic. Other than that...synthetic can stand more abuse and higher temperatures than conventional fluids...making the time between services longer...in essence you spend about the same amount of money...just longer intervals. Most automitic transmission fluids contain detergants that break down the fluid faster....therefore I use B&M Slick Shift in my automatic transmissions now...no detergants to break down the fluid. I managed a fast lube for about 5 years....I can tell you anything you want to know about any fluid that may be found on cars and trucks. Impressive...eh?...my friends think so...yaright.:-\

that since my wagon first came with vented rotors and now has solid rotors...then that would certainly work....correct?...Thanks:-p

Question: Will vented brake rotors from a '82-84' DL/GL fit my '81 4WD GL Wagon? Thank you in advance for your replies:confused:

I spent 30 bucks on my front brake pads...from Autozone...lifetime guaranteed...4K miles later...they are toasted. Had a complete overhaul last service...new calipers...new rotors....new crappy pads...so I am definitely going to go get the genuine Subaru pads from the dealer for 80 bucks this time. Yes...you will need the brake caliper tool to screw them in instead of just pushing them back in...you can buy one at about any parts store...mine was 10 bucks. I am a sole believer now in using only Subaru parts...what you pay for is what you get...good luck to you.

My thought would be connecting rod...I'm also a pessimist...dammit.

I have caught the local thieves twice trying to break into my two cars. I have a one car garage...two cars with stereo equipment...opted to rent a storage space for "extra" parking so I could always have my cars and equipment out of reach from thieving hands. I get up for work at 2:30 am every morning...and as soon as I would be doing my "business" in the bathroom before I leave for work...my car alarms would go start to go off. So...off I run with my "bad guy be good stick" in hand...out the front door and just see assholes and elbows go off into the distance. Now I can sleep at night....even when my car is in the garage I still lock it up and set the alarm...take no chances. I have lost two stereo systems in the past....and each time they take one...I make it better and louder than the last...hehe.

There will not be any fumes in the engine compartment..the tube coming up from the cat only draws air from AROUND the cat. Since the converter heats up the quickest...and gets super hot...think around 1000 degrees or so...the warmer air that gets drawn up into the air filter housing while the engine warms up to cut down on emissions. Then after the engine warms up to operating temperature...the heat riser valve on housing will close and will draw air from the snorkel instead. Just removing the tube will not cause any problems until the outside ambient temperature is near freezing or below...without the tube then it will take much longer for the engine to wam up. Anyhoo...take it easy.

I thought about going the same route for repairing my rust damage when I first started to plan my Subaru's restoration...and then came to discover that cutting and welding would cost more than what I bought the car for and a lot more time consuming. So...what I did was this...using POR-15 rust treatment/paint and also their expoxy putty and mesh....plus some cosmetic items from JC Whitney...I got my wagon into nice looking shape after it was all done...and only cost me about 250 bucks for all the supplies. Check my website for pictures of before and after...and you too might change your mind about going the cutting and welding route...good luck

Hey...how's it goin'? You either changed your username or haven't registered yet...but I hope you read this. So...if you could please...go to "Planning a Colorado Meet" thread and read what I wrote...okay?...Thanks:headbang:

Hey...how's it goin? Hrmm...I forgot your real name...dammit...oh well..but anyhoo...got a question/request for you. You seem rather knowledgable in Subaru "wrench turning"...and I was wondering if maybe you could give me a hand at something. My wagon just turned over 20K since the new engine and trans were installed...and...according to the service manual it says that I need to do a valve adjustment now. So...what I am asking is this...Do you think you would want to and have the time to lend me a hand at it? I have most of the tools needed...probably need a depth guage and maybe something else...but...I really don't have the money right now to pay a local mechanic to do it...and I have never done a Subaru valve adjustment before...only on American made. Plus...if you are up to it...I need to remedy my "vapor locking" quirk...got a couple ideas already working. So...let me know what you think...okie doke?...Talk to you later...xenongod/Jeff:smokin