dcarrberry

Yeah, go for it. It was easier than I expected. Good challenge. To find out which bearing was bad, wiggled the input and pinion shafts. Mine was the main input rollerbearing. It was obvious from the play. Good luck!

Yeah, go for it. It was easier than I expected. Good challenge. To find out which bearing was bad, wiggled the input and pinion shafts. Mine was the main input rollerbearing. It was obvious from the play. Good luck!

I read something today: Parkinson's Law - The perceived difficulty of a task increases to fill the time allotted. I'd better get my sweet car back together soon. It's getting silly. Thanks Will.

I read something today: Parkinson's Law - The perceived difficulty of a task increases to fill the time allotted. I'd better get my sweet car back together soon. It's getting silly. Thanks Will.

I bet you did. the difference in the two plates is literally miniscule. I wish mine was looking good I would have just stuck it in there. Did you replace the little spring pins for the throw-out bearing? And did you replace the Rear Main Seal? Do you know the trick if I want to do it while it's separated? -best

I bet you did. the difference in the two plates is literally miniscule. I wish mine was looking good I would have just stuck it in there. Did you replace the little spring pins for the throw-out bearing? And did you replace the Rear Main Seal? Do you know the trick if I want to do it while it's separated? -best

Thanks Will, What I found was the ball bearing gave play to the main shaft, at least a 32nd or a 16th, a good "wiggle". So I decided to replace it as well as the needle bearing in the front. I had to use an impact wrench to get the lock washer off (no problem) and was very careful to keep the synchro group together as one. Then, I used a good little puller to get the 5th gear thrust washer and needle race off, then used the puller again with slight modification to grab way back at the roller bearing. I had the mainshaft in a vice for all this with some wood blocks cut in "c"s to hold it tight, which worked. The roller bearing was tough to pull, and I had moments of lost faith, but I turned the wrench, and it moved. I got it off (the 4th push washer came with it, viscosity I guess, or the way the puller worked) and I found 1. the race was loose. Had a good rattle even with some trans fluid still in there. 2. The bearings on the blank side (no writing) were scatched and scored pretty bad. 5 out of 7 had the look of - what - really scratched up. Reassured, I reset the 4th thrust washer, ziptied the 4th gear so it wouldn't dance around as I pounded, and set the new roller bearing with some redline assembly goo. It was an impulse buy, it might have worked as well with regular GL-5, but I bought it anyway, after all regular 20w50 is pretty slick in the fingers. I would recommend it. I had to slam that bearing (with a combination of interesting puller hubs as sets) at least 200 times to get it all the way in. I used a 30 or more oz ball peen hammer against the sets (which grew as the bearing got farther on) and interesting, the needle race for the 4th gear started dancing out toward the ball bearing. I had to just have faith and keep going and press it to it's correct position. In the Factory Service Manual, all these bearings and gears are supposed to go on together one at a time with a press, and so I assumed a near stuck fit was necessary, though the 4th gear does need to roll freely and the 4th thrust washer has a little tooth to keep it from spinning, so, I just trusted that the 83 foot pounds on that lock washer would take care of the correct clearance. Anyway, I followed suit with the 5th push washer, needle race (put some greese in the new needle bearings), 5th gear and synchro sleeve set and cleaned the lock washer and bolt with kerosine and then had to tighten the lock washer. Not easy to hold 83 foot pounds with a vice. Had another set of hands with a huge pipe wrench, and the vice, and a good push to get it up there. And that was that. Placed it back in the case careful like, made sure the dowel was down, and then had to replace that back plate. I looked at it and realized it wasn't going to be right. In the FSM, they have two different parts for that, and they tell you to measure the distance the bearing protrudes from the back of the case to determine which to use. It's a difference of thousands of an inch, mind you. But I had a #2, now I need a #1. So I've ordered it and I will be patient. Apparently the difference as to do with manufacturing, plain and simple. I have no url to link to the pictures I have of my plate. Suffice it to say that looking more closely, the crack extends 3/4s of an inch, plus there is wear on the transfer case side. That transfer case side wear would make for more freeplay on the bearing than would be ideal, plus the #2 gave more freeplay anyway, and since my new bearing asks for the #1 plate, that would be double down. There are times for double down, but not on my first transmission rebuild, I feel. Hope this is useful. Best - Dcarrberry

Thanks Will, What I found was the ball bearing gave play to the main shaft, at least a 32nd or a 16th, a good "wiggle". So I decided to replace it as well as the needle bearing in the front. I had to use an impact wrench to get the lock washer off (no problem) and was very careful to keep the synchro group together as one. Then, I used a good little puller to get the 5th gear thrust washer and needle race off, then used the puller again with slight modification to grab way back at the roller bearing. I had the mainshaft in a vice for all this with some wood blocks cut in "c"s to hold it tight, which worked. The roller bearing was tough to pull, and I had moments of lost faith, but I turned the wrench, and it moved. I got it off (the 4th push washer came with it, viscosity I guess, or the way the puller worked) and I found 1. the race was loose. Had a good rattle even with some trans fluid still in there. 2. The bearings on the blank side (no writing) were scatched and scored pretty bad. 5 out of 7 had the look of - what - really scratched up. Reassured, I reset the 4th thrust washer, ziptied the 4th gear so it wouldn't dance around as I pounded, and set the new roller bearing with some redline assembly goo. It was an impulse buy, it might have worked as well with regular GL-5, but I bought it anyway, after all regular 20w50 is pretty slick in the fingers. I would recommend it. I had to slam that bearing (with a combination of interesting puller hubs as sets) at least 200 times to get it all the way in. I used a 30 or more oz ball peen hammer against the sets (which grew as the bearing got farther on) and interesting, the needle race for the 4th gear started dancing out toward the ball bearing. I had to just have faith and keep going and press it to it's correct position. In the Factory Service Manual, all these bearings and gears are supposed to go on together one at a time with a press, and so I assumed a near stuck fit was necessary, though the 4th gear does need to roll freely and the 4th thrust washer has a little tooth to keep it from spinning, so, I just trusted that the 83 foot pounds on that lock washer would take care of the correct clearance. Anyway, I followed suit with the 5th push washer, needle race (put some greese in the new needle bearings), 5th gear and synchro sleeve set and cleaned the lock washer and bolt with kerosine and then had to tighten the lock washer. Not easy to hold 83 foot pounds with a vice. Had another set of hands with a huge pipe wrench, and the vice, and a good push to get it up there. And that was that. Placed it back in the case careful like, made sure the dowel was down, and then had to replace that back plate. I looked at it and realized it wasn't going to be right. In the FSM, they have two different parts for that, and they tell you to measure the distance the bearing protrudes from the back of the case to determine which to use. It's a difference of thousands of an inch, mind you. But I had a #2, now I need a #1. So I've ordered it and I will be patient. Apparently the difference as to do with manufacturing, plain and simple. I have no url to link to the pictures I have of my plate. Suffice it to say that looking more closely, the crack extends 3/4s of an inch, plus there is wear on the transfer case side. That transfer case side wear would make for more freeplay on the bearing than would be ideal, plus the #2 gave more freeplay anyway, and since my new bearing asks for the #1 plate, that would be double down. There are times for double down, but not on my first transmission rebuild, I feel. Hope this is useful. Best - Dcarrberry

Hey Gloyale, I wrote about the rollerbearing on the mainshaft. My question is this: I've got scoring on my rear main plate, the big c plate that holds against that rollerbearing when the transfercase goes on. The scoring is on the two tips that touch the bearing housing on the pinion shaft. I can't get the part til next week, I'd like to get my car running by sunday, how critical is this part? The scoring has broken through the tip layer a bit, and is cracking a bit for about 1/4 inch back along the top. Will this self destruct eventually or just hang out? Thanks - dcarrberry

Hey Gloyale, I wrote about the rollerbearing on the mainshaft. My question is this: I've got scoring on my rear main plate, the big c plate that holds against that rollerbearing when the transfercase goes on. The scoring is on the two tips that touch the bearing housing on the pinion shaft. I can't get the part til next week, I'd like to get my car running by sunday, how critical is this part? The scoring has broken through the tip layer a bit, and is cracking a bit for about 1/4 inch back along the top. Will this self destruct eventually or just hang out? Thanks - dcarrberry

Gloyale, Also, if i wish to do the bearings, can I move the 5th gear and synchros without a press to access the rear rollerbearing? I have the FSM. 1996 2.2 IOBS Best - dcarrberry

Gloyale, Also, if i wish to do the bearings, can I move the 5th gear and synchros without a press to access the rear rollerbearing? I have the FSM. 1996 2.2 IOBS Best - dcarrberry

Gloyale, I've craked my case open - what is "free play" on the main shaft? 1/8th? 1/16th? 1/32"? I had a heck of a noise when the clutch was engaged and in any gear that matched RPM. Sounded like two grinds a second, so maybe every 4 revolutions or so. Best. Dcarrberry

Gloyale, I've craked my case open - what is "free play" on the main shaft? 1/8th? 1/16th? 1/32"? I had a heck of a noise when the clutch was engaged and in any gear that matched RPM. Sounded like two grinds a second, so maybe every 4 revolutions or so. Best. Dcarrberry