subusolo2nut

Yes-I'm still alive--have had a "rough" year (too long to explain). Trex is without any rear suspension right now (parts in re-design, getting unequal A arms with heim joints & coil-overs)...The front reaction rods & lower inner joints went thru 5000+ street miles & 1 1/2 seasons on the track without problems. Currently have striped the car down another 230lb, almost moded the change to Miata front & rear calipers/rotors, re-designed the fuel tank location, changed the lug pattern to 4 X 100mm & several other changes:eek:. Net result: The EJ22/weber carb'd engine is about 190HP & the car projected final weight will be about 1600lb (1100lb on the front wheels) O--pics--If anyone wants them, just E me & I'll send them to you....(I need to track them down in my photo library)

No prob with the intake & carb--didn't work well in the winter here (needed a way to heat the air on the 28deg mornings:)--caused Carb icing on the venturis) a simple airfilter & heat-tube would work very well--just didn't work with a race engine---You would need a choke cable link on the carb (again, not needed on a racecar)--The only thing you need to do is mod the bellhousing (engine side) to clear the accelerator pump--I can shoot a pic of my mod--I'd take $150+shipping for the manifold/carb set-up--include the "milder"jetting so you could use it on a "stock" engine---The "y" pipe setup has been modded to work with the 2.2--I FINALLY got it running this evening--you should hear what two 45mm Webbers sound like on a 2.2!!!! I'd say that the induction noise at 6000 is around 95/100db!!! Gives me a case of "race face" just running it---I'd say it feels like 180hp--so, 1820+the difference for the 2.2 vs 1.8 and 105 vs 180--sounds good to me:) Anyway--if you want the manifold & carb--just E me autocrosser at macdialup.com

Yes--It's possible--take a look at my other post on a EJ-22 into a '82 GLF autocross car--I used the offset housing from the driver's side of the engine (got another one from a yard for $10) & lathed a bushing to accept a EA-81 dist modified at the drive end with a honda dist drive dog--You need to slightly cut down the dist body end & inner shaft--the honda 'dog pins with a redrilled hole in the shaft (the 'dog is a floater--allows for "slight" mis-alignment) & set the front for TDC #1--The passenger cam from a early ('90/'94) has a offset slot made for the type of 'dog honda uses---I've got a pic of the housing mod & the modified 2.2--expecting 180/200HP with Dual Carbs.

No-The Dell is on the EA-81--I'll have the Frank'n'take & carb up for sale soon--The EJ-22 has a set of DCOE/9 45mm with 38mm venturies---Have you contacted Alfa 1750 on eBay for your jets? There is a place in So.Cal. (don't have the address) that I know about--I can try to get it for you if you still need it-- T-rex has been consistant all season--I've been invited to Thunderhill next year to "play"--So-the EJ is going in this weekend & I get to sort the carbs out before the next solo event (Sept 11)---wish me luck!!

Well--I've not posted here in almost a year--the world & life in general as usual--happens. In any case--I know that several people have wanted to know how to mod a dist into a EJ-22---I'm here to say you can & here's how. Most of the earlier EJ-22 cams have a offset keyway cut into the passenger cam rear--This area is covered by a "blanking plug" that has two ears bolting it to the block. This "plug" IS EXACTLY THE SAME layout as the cam offset carrier on the front of the other head (see the first picture) I cut the excess off the extension & machined a bushing on the inside to match with a "normal" dist shaft diameter--I have modified a EA-81 dist to fit--you need to shorten the shaft & body length & use a Honda offset drivedog. I'm re-curving the dist to use centrifical advance only--you can use the vaccum if it is a street car--next you will need to find "true" TDC & mark the front crank pulley--align it with the marks on the T-cover.. O---And I'm including the other picts just so people can see a 200HP CARB'D EJ-22

Well-It's venturis--and the DGV series carbs are a cast assembly--so changing the size requires changing the carb--the jet assemblies are the changeable parts--I work with replaceable venturi carbs (DCOE & IDA carbs)--harder to work with due to the varables, but much more tuneable---

What I think that he is refering to is known in the US as a "Redi-Sleeve" made by several seal makers--It's a very thin steel sleeve that is gently tapped on to the pulley sealing surface--you normally start the sleeve on the pulley & then set a piece of wood on top--tap the wood with a hammer & "drive" the sleeve over the surface--I normally drop some LockTite on the grooved area for the new sleeve to "bite" onto--Check with a local parts store to see if one is availible for you application---I'm not sure one is---

Agree--I like using Grade 8's--I always torque to a "proper" setting for the bolt application & have not distorted any of my "custom" parts over the years--I have done "destructive" testing on a few of those cars---- Have a few scars for my efforts---- Cheers!! Dean

Its been a Month & 1/2 from these pics--You can look for the lower control arm mods that were in a later thread---With proper thought you could use this mod for both raised & lowered cars--Raised cars would need the inner fulcrum point rotated to align with the control arm & lowered cars can do it like the pics show---As for the handling---First, steel parts transmit more road noise to the inside--that being said--You can place the car almost anywhere in a corner & I feel totally at ease running 3 times the "rated" speed thru a corner--the car plants within a inch or so of where I want it to & the line thru is changeable at will--I've been invited to run the car at ThunderHill next spring, so the EJ22 & the rear suspension mods have pushed the paint job to the side--I'm going to design a 8 to 11 gal tank to go under the floor in the old rear seat area so the rear can be just for the exaust & rear suspension---With no rear tank I'll be able to design a wide-based A-arm suspend--will have adjustable coil-overs with rear discs--moving the tank forward in the body will also increase traction under acceleration & inprove weight transfer under braking--Going to be very busy the next few months--I'll have pics as it goes along--- Dean

First off--The choke element should be at 12V or so--I've cut the old wire at the connector before & ran a new wire to the positive side of the coil--not a problem one after--This worked on both my '85 hatch & '84 GL Wagon--they both had the same prob at one time or another--- Dean

AW CRAP!!! Hang in there man!!! Feels good to put it to the Wrx's!! I was generally 2/3 sec faster on the course than those boys & they couldn't understand it----As for the gaskets--I'd talk to the NAPA boys--I got to admit I use only mama Soob--I've had too many probs with the others--but, that's water under the bridge--LUCK TO A WAY HOME!!!! Dean---

YEA to that!!! I don't care if it's high or low--IT'S STILL A SOOB & WE NEED TO PROMOTE IT TO EVERYBODY!!!

I forgot to add--as far as control is concerned--I think that I am the better judge of what I want in terms of handling instead of some designer sitting in a office far from where the car is being used---I know that the intent of the car is far from what the designers were intending---

Wow!! In a Ideal world, you would want minimum camber change over a large suspension travel--a almost unheard-of state of being--In reality, working between positive & negative 3 deg during "off-road" work with a neutral (read zero deg) camber during street work is good enough--The prob is to get enough travel, you are most likely starting with a fair amount of positive camber--not very good for normal street use--to get lots'a travel & keep minimum camber change, you need long control arms---half the vehicle width is about as short as you need---if you could have lower suspension points at the trans center-line & use the normal strut uppers--you would be heading in the right area--this is not taking into consideration clearance of the arms--blah-blah Sounds like a interesting design study--- Take a look at the Baja 500 runners--the suspensions are INSANE!!!

Sorry to hear about that---BUMMER!! The wife & I (she had FINALLY realized that I NEEDED a race car) bought the GLF for $400 from a little old lady in Jacksonville, OR--of course, it helps that this was our 5th Subie---Keep lookin'--they are out there--