powderhound

Still have my original battery...8 years and 153K...recently read an article that a new battery will help the car run better and improve gas mileage.

That may be but I think the VC can withstand more abuse than the duty c solenoid??? My cheap tires are wearing so fast I'm well outside of spec but I'm not worried. My dad has had mismatched tires on his 92 mt for 60K with no ill effect yet. anecdotal evidence i suppose

Sorry I can't stop. So from a business grad...Oil Imports to America: 1. Mexico 2. Canada 3. Saudi Arabia 4. Nigeria 5. Venezuela 6. Angola 7. Iraq 8. Ecudaor 9. Brazil 10. Algeria 2/10 from the middle east...wake up people...its all about China not where WE get OUR oil from. source: http://www.eia.doe.gov/pub/oil_gas/petroleum/data_publications/company_level_imports/current/import.html

you haven't saved any money...200 something for the cleaning??...let us know when you break even. Oh and UW-Madison is the BEST public university in the country...now if we could just get rid of all the bEASTies.

a vaccum gauge will allow you to keep vaccum as high as possible which is where the best mpg occurs.

I dont want to pee on your parade either but it is my belief that the switch from winter gas to summer gas is probably most responsible for any mpg gains. I too have recently gotten back to 28-30 from a winter 25 and I didn't spend a dime (other than 2.89/gal). I notice this every spring and a subsequent drop every fall.

I've been quoted from 500-1000. AFOF said a shop in IL qouted him 300...but I would say that would be the exception...as with most things automotive the parts are cheap but the labor is costly...certainly the case with a suby clutch which requires removal of the engine or transmission or both. gl and tell me what you end up paying...im in the same boat...152K and it has started to slip intermitently in fifth.

I would be concerned if mine didn't tick. I know its been said before but...It's a subaru it ticks to tell you its alive.

What a discovery I made today. On my way back from a job interview in Chicagoo I took hwy 12 and passed "Subaru Heaven" in Cambridge, WI. Cheap Parts, Cheap Labor and more first gen legacys and xt6s than i've ever seen....Cindy's Classics 608-423-4307.

the MY99 2.2 is a one-of-a-kind 2.2...I've heard it described as a hybrid between the 2.2 and 2.5. That said, this is the last year of the 2.2 and with only 78K this will run for awhile.

nice trade. My family too is making the transition to Honda. Traded an 01 OBW for a CR-V to join the 98 Civic and 92 Legacy.

tried plowing the driveway

When my car would not idle correctly I asked a tech at the local dealer how he cleaned them. He said he just sprays cleaner in the hose going into the iac. I did this and have not had a problem since.

What would make my left front tire wear out of round? And on the left rear the outside lugs only are wearing on a slant in the direction of the car. Any ideas. I do get shudder when braking.

Why are we saying that a 5sp is harder to sell? I know here in madison that the dealers used lot is full of autos and anytime a manual comes in it is gone just as fast. It seems to me that subaru is a brand that attracts those of us who prefer to shift for ourselves.

I have 150K on my MT and clutch...2nd gear will no longer engage without some force and the clutch is shuddering in first...but everything still goes. My dad has 175K on his 92 MT and clutch...it too crunches 2nd and 3rd but the clutch feels new. I'm not sure why people are replacing clutches with less than 100K b/c I have beat the snot out of mine (hauling firewood, driving it like an F1 car, climbing mountains, etc) either they can't drive a clutch or they are driving it not properly adjusted...speaking of which I think I'll go dial mine out a bit and see if I can't get rid of that 1st gear shudder.

UPDDATE: Glimmer of hope indeed. When the weather warmed up the problem cured itself and made the trip to the mountains and back...still going at 150K.

My experience has been that if you come into a corner too hot AWD cars (89 alltrac camry, 92 & 98 awd legacies) will oversteer which is perfectly predictable and controllable with the throttle and a little counter steering...not to mention damn fun...although it can be unerving if you're not expecting it...but I've had my 98 completly sideways at 70+mph (once coming down into Missula the road turned to ice and we slide between a cement divider and a semi and once on the Keweenaw penninsula going too fast around a corner) both times though awd saved my arse. In a FWD car its understeer straight for the ditch. I'd suggest a snow covered parking lot or frozen lake (if you can find one in north america) to practice four wheel drifts.

I've spilled it on the exhaust too and was amaazed how long it took to burn off...even after many hours of highway driving

I have redline NS in the gearbox...also to attempt to cure failing synchros...worked well for about six months now same old same old...crrrunch. I have mobil 1 in the rear diff.

It is cable actuated. I have adjusted it before so I'm familiar with the procedure. Will that help it from slipping in gear? I thought it just affected the engagement point. What do people think would be a fair price for this at an indie shop...new pressure plate, disc, t/o and pilot bearings and resurface the flywheel? Oh and the rear main seal if I have a plastic one.

Clutch has 143K on it. I have noticed it slipping in 3,4,5. This started completely out of the blue. My question: Is it possible for snow to form ice on the clutch lining causing slippage? I ask b/c it started after parking in snow up to the door jam. If not, is this something that would develope rapidly...like overnight? And how long can I go/ what can I do to prolong life? IE I'm planning a 3000 mile trip and will be taking this car...hopefully.

I have 143K on mine.

Nipper-The cooling system was serviced 40K ago so I should def have that done. The t-stat was also replaced then with oem so should be fine. What would effect my mpg? I think it is down lately but was assuming b/c I've done so much city driving lately. About the rad cap...do I need OEM or will anything work? In general how serious of a problem do you think this is? Critical or just annoying? Thanks everyone.

I don't thnk that's the case b/c it blew continually cooler air...is this a heater core issue?