Forkspear

its expensive. i dropped a small block 400 with an overdrive tranny in my camaro last year. it makes quite the sleeper. just plain jane 81 camaro. turned out to not be all the much faster than the suby. but roasting the tires is a lot of fun lol i just picked up an ej20 swap from a junkyard and i am debating the same thing with the rx tranny. i like it but dont want to break it. i will probably go with a legacy transmission because the clutch setup is supposed to be better from what i have heard. and no adapter plate or drilled flywheel. i picked up a 5 speed xt6 crossmember a few years ago in anticipation of this kind of project.

nice. your driveway looks like mine. rx and a camaro. i wish my rx was still that clean

nice install. much cleaner than mine. i ditched the pcv system and left the hoses there

we put a set in my brothers rx. when we took the valve covers off we found that i had forgot to tighten the banjo bolt for the pressure relief when we built the motor. we put them in anyway. that was over a year ago. still ok

if you hook up the wastegate direct you should get 8psi. if its maxing at 17 psi with your controller you should make the spring softer if it is setup to limit the signal. stiffen it if it limits pressure bleed. another thing to think about is if your actuator is messed up and running 12 by itself, fix it and you would probably run less boost with the controller set up the way it is.

im sure you will figure it out. i would try moving the actuator so the rod is more parallel with the turbo. i know it has some angle built into it. moving the actuator down would shorten the rod and put less tension on the spring. looking at your picture, you might be able to use the original holes.

my $10 piece of crap is quite nice. zero fluctuation. you just have to know what you are doing. i got fluctuation when i had no bleeder hole or ball and spring, just a brass valve. basically you adjust the valve to the desired boost spike then it drops back to stock. it just lengthens the time it takes the wastegate to receive the boost signal by restricting it. add a ball and spring in the valve and the signal cannot pass through to the wastegate until it overcomes the pressure of the spring. this pressure is easily adjustable with the valve. the turbo spools faster like this but boost still falls. you have to drill a tiny hole somewhere on the wastegate side of the valve. this does not let the pressure build up after the valve and open the wastegate. i can adjust my valve anywhere from stock to upwards of 14psi. my boost is rock steady. the size of the bleeder hole is relative to the size of wastegate line. when i swapped to the td04 the bleeder hole was too big for the smaller wastegate lines. i got creative and closed the hole up a little and it works fine. still rock solid right where i want it. lol being new to turbo cars i accomplished that very quickly when i first got my rx. my buddy talked me into pulling off the wastegate line for a little while. needless to say it does not take much

my car is horrible with exhaust coming in throught the heater. but my exhaust does end under the passengers feet. go figure

did you use a brass valve? or just some fittings with the spring inside. i used one designed for brass tubing. your spring is too stiff. too soft of a spring would just let all of the boost signal go through the controller and open the wastegat at 8psi. if the spring is too stiff it will act like the wastegat is not even hooked up and your boost will skyrocket with very little throttle like you said. try using a softer spring or trimming it down some. do not the stock boost controller hooked up if you have a controller. it will only mess things up. just unhook the lines from the turbo and wastegate and let them hang. you can unhook the one from the intake tube if you want but you will have to cap the hole it leaves. there is nothing wrong with a homemade boost controller. there is something wrong with asking $60 to $80 for a simple valve with a ball and spring with some fancy paint. with the controller gutted and all the way open you should run stock boost. if you are not something is wrong. try running just a vacuum hose from the turbo to the wastegate. it should run at 8psi. if it still skyrockets your actuator is probably toast

I dont know if it changed. I never tried it before. i put my boost controller on right away. I mounted the wastegate with one bolt and rotated the housing until i thought the rod was lined up right. ill have to get a picture

my first suby was an 84 gl wagon with a digital dash. i drove it for a while and the dash went out. i happened to find another dash and put in it. it burned out too. i dont think the analog swap would be too hard. however i never messed with it. probably just match up the wire colors from the new dash plugs to the harness. you wil probably have to add an oil pressure sending unit to get the oil gauge to work. the digi dash just has an idiot light that uses a simple on off switch. i know its not a sooby but i changed out a bare bones gauge cluster in an 81 camaro for one with a tach and gauges. all i did was cut the plug off and match the wires to the plug that came with the new dash. just make sure you check a wiring diagram for both the digital dash car and the donor car.

you can blow up several rebuilt or junkyard ea82t short blocks before you pay for a jdm ej swap. ask me how i know....... as for the td04 pictures i have none but i have the td04. you have to swap the metal cooling lines from your original turbo. i dont know if you have to but i did. i dont remember if i changed the oil drain......probably. you have to slot the rear bolt hole to bolt it on the manifold. then you have to change the downpipe or something because the ihi is 4 bolts and the td04 is has 5. lol i just bolted up my 4 bolt homemade bellmouth downpipe with 2 nuts......needless to say it did not match and there is a big hole on one side. i dont care cause my downpipe goes down and turns back and stops under the crossmember. wrx downpipe does not line up right. it hits the driveshaft before the flange is flush with the turbo. thats how the aftermarket downpipe i have did not fit. you could always cut and weld. for the cold side i just got creative with junkyard air intake tubing from other cars and radiator hose. oh yeah i also clock the housing. unbolt the wastegate actuator and take off the giant snapring that holds the compressor housing on. i just rotated it up until the wastegate actuator would line up with just one bolt. it still works fine.

i have been going there since they opened a few years ago. spent way too much on soob parts. pulled a few turbo motors. stripped an rx drivetrain and body kit. 87.5 xt turbo motor. 5 lug swap i never used. xt6 sways. how bad is the front of that car? i was thinking about fixing it. my rx was totaled when i bought it. i straightened out the subframe by bolting a bracket where the bumper goes and chaining it to a big tree.

100% sure. i pulled them off my buddy's 84 turbo. nissan went to dual feed when they changed things around on the z's in 86 or 87 i think.

i used turbo 300zx injectors. they work alright if your motor is in good condition. combined with my really low compression and mile high altitude they tend to flood the engine on a cold start. i have to hold the pedal to the floor to get it running. if you let it die right away it floods. then its hard to start. sometimes i have to unplug the maf to get it going again. in your case it probably wont be like that. i need a rebuild again. my aav is disabled and my compression is down around 60psi and less. i have not done any fuel pressure mods