Smpol19

Looks like a good deal, I got one just like that a little over a year ago for $9,000 and it wasn't nearly as clean as that appears to be. The Impreza Outbacks have the 2.2l engine which is one of the most reliable Subaru has made. I got mine at 68,000 and have put 30,000 more on it and the only money I've spent for things other then routine matnience was for a new o2 sensor.

I wouldn't worry too much about waiting to put synt. in, there are many cars that come from the factory with it now. 1.5q every 4,000 does seem like a lot. Make sure you are checking it when the car is cold or has been sitting a while, it took me almost a year of subaru driving to figure out that the dipstick reading can vary quite a bit depending on where and how long the car has been sitting. If it really losing that much, get it looked at and make sure everything is documented. My 2001 impreza has almost 100,000 miles and doesn't lose anything between 5-6,000 oilchanges with Mobil 1.

He said its a 5 speed, there is no fuse on these. It does sound kind of like the binding issues some auto's have when they have been running miss matched tires for a long time. It also may just be Subaru clutch chatter but I dont see how that could be related to turning.

In the fall you'll be able to get a good deal on an 05 because the 06 is redisigned. If you aren't too picky getting one of the last 05's on the lot in October will get you the best price.

no...if you do a search you'll find this is not a good plan at all. It will save you little or nothing on gas, and will most likley cost you a lot in terms of replaceing the clutch pack in the transmission. The AWD will only help the handeling of the car so just let it do its thing. Do remember if you ever have to use the spare tire or any tire that doesn't match the other 3 use the fuse but get four matching tires as quickly as possible.

On my 2001 Impreza OBS 2.2 the timing belt is schudaled for 105,000 miles not shure when they changed to this but you may want to double check.

I've really liked the BFG Traction T/A's on my Impreza Outback Sport. They really grip well in the snow and rain. I've had them for about 20,000 miles now and they are wearing well. My only complaint is that they are a little loud on the highway but nothing terrible, and I really like the raised white letters for some reason which these don't have. They ended up running me about $90 a tire about a year ago.

I don't buy it. Whenever gas prices go out everyone seems to come out with some new device that almost always saves 15-20%. I've yet to see any of these things actually work. My gas mileage ranges from 24-32 mpg on my OBS and from 22-28 on my GL wagon; these are over 20% changes. Sometimes when I drive I'm thinking about my gas mileage, sometimes I'm thinking I need to get where I'm going, sometimes I sit in the car with the heat/AC running all of these things have an effect on my gas mileage. If any of these devices worked the car companies would be installing them on the car and then advertising the fact that their car gets 20% better mileage then X comparable car. If any crazy thing you put in your gas worked the gas companies would put it in their gas and advertise the fact that their gas got you further with the same amount. That’s what’s great about capitalism. I know everyone has their conspiracy theories that the car companies make their cars get poor gas mileage because they are in with the oil companies but I just can't believe that. I could be wrong and this could end up being on every car made in five years but it seems to be it would have been thought of by the engineers who have been designing engines first.

I'm having this exact same problem with an old Honda Accord, if the tank is below 1/4 it does what you describe. If its full no problem, I'm thinking dying fule pump but not sure.

I've had the redline 75w90NS in for about 1500 miles now. It felt great at first but when its warmed up I still get a bit of a grind when I shift into third from 2 abouve 3500 rpm. I'm not really sure how much of a problem this is. I'll probably go back to regular stuff next time I change it just because i'm not willing to spend $50 bucks on gear oil all the time unless it really compleatly fixes the problem.

I thought I was the only one who like'd the raised white letters. I tried to find something with then for my Impreza OBS but was in a bit of a hurry to get my spare off so i ended up with a set of BFG traction T/A which I love (though they are a but loud) but I do miss the wite letters. None of the new subies seem to come with them, even my old GL wagon had them from the factory. I think BFG may still make something with the letters but it may have to be special ordered.

A lot of the switches and stuff in the newer subarus say nissan on them.

I'm running Mobil 1 75w90 now, I've heard some people say its not good Subaru transmissions and I get a bit of a grind going into 3rd. I put it in when i bought the car used with 70k miles on it and it definitly made things smother. I ordered some Redline 75/90 NS which there have been a lot of good things said about so I should be puttin that in tomorrow i'll post on how it feels. If that doesn't work out I'm probably just going to go back to a quality dyno gear oil. I've also heard some good things about Castrol Syntorq (sp?) but I've had trouble finding this in the US. I'll post tomorrow night on how the Redline feels. Below is a link to a very long indepth article on this topic on nasioc. Let us know what you do put in and how you like it. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=416514

Pay a shop to break it lose, then don't put it on so tight. I've never used a filter wrench or strap werench in my life. Some times I use some rubber gloves to get a grip on a real tight filter that someone else put on but you never use a wrench to put a filter on and as long as you are the only one changeing the oil you shouldn't have to use one to get it off again.

It doesn't say in the book for my 01 Outback Sport but it does say the total capacity of the tank. So when the light comes on fill up as soon as possible subtract the number of gallons you put in from the total capacity of the tank. I've done it a few times on mine and i usualy have 2.5 - 3 US gallons left which is a minimum of 60 or 70 miles.

So think of it as a $4500 forester, still a great deal. Put the extra $1500 away, if the gasket goes then you're set, if it doesn't you've got an extra $1500 plus intrest in the bank. I don't know the details of this car but even if its the most basic model out there its worth about $5k. Other then the head gasket issues its a great car. If it were me I'd offer a little less and explain my nervousness about the HG, but I'd be all over this.

yup, go to the dealer and get the cabin air filter kit. Its about $50 I think, there is a small section of the Air box next to the blower that you cut out then you slide thSe filter in, then the kit will come with a cover that you install to hold it in place. Shouldn't take long at all.

I'm not sure that its actually a HEPA fileter, I think its more of just a pollen filter. If you don't have alegerys or if you drive with the windows down a lot you could probably just pull it out of there and save your money. I have one in my Outback Sport and my girlfried has pretty bad alegerys especualy this time of year and seems to notice a diffrence. I can't really tell.

These things do get dirty quick. The part is about $50 and it took me maybe a little over 30 mins the first time i did it and I could do it in 15 now that i know what i'm doing. The glove box does have to come out but a screwdriver is the only tool you need. There are about 8 screws that hold the glove box up. If you buy the filter from the dealer it comes with pretty decent instructions. The other thing you can do is go to Home Depot and buy a good furnace filter and then take the filter out of your car and use a utility knive to cut the furnace filter to fit into the plastice frame on your filters, you can make about 3 sets of these for less then $20 doing it this way but its a little more time consuming. Either way I would replace it if you have much more then 10,000 miles on the car.

If its the car in his pictures its a 5-speed so he's not going to have the fuse, no way to put the stick's into FWD. I'm don't hear of the torque bind being a problem too much with the 5speeds, you may want to try putting a quality gear oil, maybe synthitic, of the correct weight and see if that does anything before you spend money on a new tranney

yup I did pads and rotors in my Impreza for the first time a few months ago and it took about an hour and a half from when I parked my car till when I was all cleaned up and ready to drive it again. BigMattyD's directions look pretty much the same as my Impreza, if you are doing the rotors too you'll have to take the caliper entierly off. I did end up having to use an Impact wrench to get the calipers off but I probably could have done without it if i had tried hard enough. I also had some slight problems getting the new pads in the calipers, they are a real tight fit but just be paitent and they should go in, the first one probably took about 10 mins but after that it got eaesier.

I've always used the brake booster vacume, anything wrong with that?

How many gallons of gas do you put in when you fill it? Find out how big your gas tank is, should be in your owners manuale. When you fill up your tank do the math and see if your millage is terrible or if your gas gauge is off. Number of miles driven divided by the number of gallons of gas put in.

Alright well thanks for all the help guys, i ran some seafoam through it, cleaned out some vacume lines, and then did the thing with the HEET. This time the NOx droped way down to 760 from over 1500, the limit is around 1000. But now the HC and the CO are both way over the limit, during the first test these weren't anywhere near the limit. Was this caused by the HEET(the yellow bottle) or is it somehting else, I only drove about 200 miles between tests. Results: limit 15mph/25mph Test 1 15mph/25mph Test 2 15mph/25mph HC ppm 159/154 34/135 197/189 CO% .90/.95 .01/.01 2.17/1.91 NO PPM 1097/999 1634/1552 760/765 Bold=fail Thanks for the help Edit: i can't get the results to come up the way I want so they are readable, i'll scan in the results later on....

I've got a U-haul one on my impreza OBS looks exactly like the draw tite for the same car so I would bet they are made by Draw tite. The guy at the u-haul place told me but i can't remember what he said. Anyway I had a good experience with it, cost me around $200 for the hitch, drawbar, ball, and wiring harnes and the whole thing has a lifetime warenty. I think it would have worked out to about $20 less to get it from e-trailer and install it my self but I figured it was worth the $20 for the time saved and the lifetime warenty.