Vanislru

A good water injection system will cool a charge better than a air to air intercooler.

The 4.44 Pinion for the 5 mt I have is 13 5/8" of an inch long. (mm's ?) Any know how long the d/r pinion is of the top of their head?

I'll go measure the pinion of the 4.44 set I have. I'm pretty sure that it's the same length, you can order 2 different lengths from Rallispec. 1 for a trannie with the center diff and 1 without.

I've lost a piston because of a faulty injector, but I think your timing is likely the issue.I think these disties suck. Great curve for stock terrible for modded. On all the ea82t's that I've run higher boost they've had issues with the "timing curve" I usually run around 15-20 btdc in the winter and around 10-17 btdc in the summer, depending on the amount of boost which is usually 12-15psi.

The 4.44's R+P's can be found from various 2004/2005 us models or you can buy the ring and pinions from Rallispec for $700. And then install them which will be no cake walk. Pics can be found in my user gallery. I've been trying to get some time in the shop so I can stuff the 4.44's in the d/r box. Moving and Buying/selling houses hasn't realy helped lol.

If you don't have a clutch alignment tool you can leave the 6? bolts that hold the pp on loose and then tichten them through the hole for the starter. Very easy to do this way, wedge the flywheel after you turn the motor to each bolt. Also whether you use the tool or not make sure the pilot shaft on the trannie is nice and smooth free of burrs, 100 grit works good. ATB

I didn't see it posted so I'll ask, what about your seats and such? I had/have major mold issues from the last time the interior was full of water. It was such a pita to dry everything out I will probly not do any major water crossings until the car gets a complete removal of all interior carpet and sound padding, maybe seat removal too. Just wonderin'

WOW! I've looked at those DP's in the mag's and they look wicked. What is the weight difference between your stock motor and the one going in? Are you changing anything suspension wise to help deal with the increased load up front? ATB with your project.

Turbo or ej(22t) it, I'm happy with the high comp turbo motor but I would like to mate the ej22t I have to the 4.44 d/R I'm working on. EJ-EJ-EJ!

You can use shims to increase/decrease the amount of torque it takes to "lock" it up. Trial and error style. Too much and it'll drive wierd and wear out the clutch pack.

You can use any rear r160 clutch type lsd with your 4.11's

The 2nd set of holes is tapped.

Sohc

So is that 1.5hrs straight, how much WOT? Good luck.

I was hoping that group buy on the studs would happen, bolts are the real issue. I'd bet with studs you could hold 15psi reliably(fueling issues aside) for a long time. Down as low as $400 for a buy of 10? I figure I spend $110 each HG job I do plus my time so about $250. Could pay off a set in about 1 year at the rate I've been going lately. A bad injector was heating things up good and I didn't find out till the 2nd go around. They sound like a great deal to me @400. If we could piece a buy together.

I never did understand the benefit of copper HG's. Copper distributes heat really well so they've got that going for them I gues but aside from that? Copper has no "memory" once deformed it stays that way. It's soft. I dunno?? O rings aren't too much money to have installed, and there's tons of guys out there who've DIY'd and done quite well, 25 psi is more than enough for me. If you were near me I'd buy you a few beer guy cause I know the frustration that you've had. I wish I'd bookmarked the DIY o ring stuff. Good luck with the rebuild.

Sorry to here about your loss. I'm sure those parts will go quick. ATB

Any news?

Definately! I missed last year cause of my good friends wedding being rescheduled, sniff sniff.Tonight I start the tear down!!

Turbo's are great. Advantages are: Clearance, I can't stand the sight of the non turbo's exhaust hanging down. Power, I cruise at 130 kmh or about 80mph Disadvantages are the lower torque, which I dealt with by installing a hybrid highcomp turbo motor in. EFI block turbo goodies. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9702&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 for pics in my user gallery.

I don't think I'll need to weld anything unless the ring's circumference is to large, then I might have to cut and box the trannie a bit. I can't wait to take comparison pics of the r+p's on Mon. Maybe I can con a certain Mech. into helping me open up the trans.

I used to run 1 belt but after installing the big tires the ps would make my belt squeal trying to trun the big meats. if I didn't have the big tires I'd be back to 1. Although you don't lose much power the extra belt does use a bit more. Better mileage with one belt.

Rear diff ring is 8 bolt and front is 12. I think a stock d/r front ring is 11 bolt? Can't remember what the back was I will have to go out to the shop and look at one.

Picked them up today. Front pinion measures 34.5cm's Ring 17.5cms Rear pinion 36.5 cm's ring 16.5cm's. or is that backwards? I'll have to check it out a little more, a quick bolt count should tell all. Ill crack the D/R on monday and start to post comparison pics so we can all see whats what. As far as the pinion being to long the front is for a trannie w/o a transfer gear/center diff so it should fit nicely. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9702&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

Awesome! Those kind of problems can be so frustrating glad you found it. Did you keep the carb C.C. pulley? Can't believe how much lighter they are than the trubo ones.