Vanislru

If the hose to your wastegate was leaking then you'd be making more boost not less. When I blew a wastegate hose off I boosted to 20+ psi really quick! The wastegate sol. is actuated by pos. pres. pushing on the diaphram's surface which then moves the arm connected to the wastegate valve. I don't know too much about the 87 system but my guess your uppipe is cracked or the gasket is shot, feel around where your turbo meets the uppipe for any exhaust gas leaks, give it some throttle while you do this by moving the throttle cable. No leaks? then it might be that your turbo is on it's last legs or you have an unrelated prob that is not allowing you to develop the exhaust needed to spool.

Any chance you have an axle over top of the e-brake line? That could cause it.

I used a tire calc. and then put little stickers with the correction on the speedo. Works well and cost me 99 cents for the sticker pack.

Looks like it's time for some 29x10.5 Thornbirds eh? Nice muddin pics! Was the guy in the motorcycle wreck OK? I worry about my brother on his bike alot, fast bikes and young guys are a deadly combination. My wife calls them organ donors on wheels.

wHAT KIND OF SPARK PLUG HAS HE USED? sOME RUN ALOT HOTTER THAN OTHERS AND CAUSE PINGING

I agree, I think you have two problems. shifter linkage and worn gears. Check out the linkage underneath for the slop and as for the gear dumping I've had a lot of trannies perk up after adding some of that Lukas oil, maybe half a bottle.

When I was working up north [-30's -40's december to april] I used a coolant heater, oil pan heater, and battery heater wrap. I could have done away with the battery wrap probly cause these turbo motors are easy to crank with there low compression. I used a timer set to start warming things about 3 hours before I needed to head out to work and it seemed to be enough, tho I did have to idle with the aux heaters on in order to reach operating temps. O wieght oil is a good idea if it's really cold where you are.

It'll work, I don't know how well but I've seen alot of oilpans with strong magnets on the bottom and magnetic drain plugs. They all collect some metallic crap eventually and can't hurt anything. I've seen a few older aircooled VW's with magnetic drainplugs but their oil filtering systems are very crude most are just a dome of mesh.

I've done several turbo's and a dremels fine. For any of the turbo's that our cars came with all you really need to do is the side the exhaust enters in from the header. Feel inside and you'll find a lip abou 3/4 " in. Grind it smooth and around the passage into the wastegate if you have any boost creep prob's. Removing that lip is where any efficiency gains will be had. Don't worry about the compressor side.

Jay, 1.75" is that ID? I'm going to fab. a header up for a turbo gl-10 4x4 coupe, I already have 2 TWE header/dp's on my wagon's. I can't remember the I.D. of the header but it's too big IMO. Top ends great and all but I'd rather get the top end from a larger turbo [like my tdo4] not from oversize header pipes. 1 3/4" sounds too big to me, I'm going to see if I can find some 1.25" ID tubing for my header and use my twe pipes as a guide for the design. Just a thought. BTW your FMIC looks awesome.

7-9PSI max depends on the boost controller you usebut over 11psi will start to be inefficient unless you do some porting on the exhaust snailshell. EGT- skies the limit as hot as you can get it.

nO YOU CAN'T ADJUST THE CAMBER ON EARLY SOOBS

Brian's correct, there shouldn't be neg. camber with a pk/byb kit. I've not had any wear issues on either wagon.

what do you want to know? can you be more specific?

I've found intake manifold bolts that were hand tight at best might be and idea to give the 6 of them a quick check. If they are loose/broken the gasket is probly in need of replacing anyhow cause it might have shifted and/or be damaged. They're cheap and easy to do maybe take 4 hours.To do the headgaskets might run you $150 dollars for all the seals and gaskets and will most likely eat up a weekend but there's an excellent write up in the USRM by Torxx i think. If you get into trouble someone will know how to get you out. I personally would do the HG's just so I know they're not going to be needing attn down the road.

thanks all_talk So if I've read everything right so far the gears are pressed onto the shaft with the possibilty of swapping a "set" of gears for another on the 2 shafts. Mudrat managed to get a front lsd into a d/r trannie too didn't he?

I ride my bike to work but otherwise my lifted ru is the daily driver.

I got my password to ausubaru sorted out, conversions is one of the forums that you only get access to if you are a member. That's 4.44 input shaft swap is something that would really improve things. I'd get get back more than half the ratio I lost when I put 29's on.

Thanks. I checked out the first link which had some good info and I couldn't get the secon link to work. My password isn't working for ausubaru either so I'll have to check it out tonite when I have the time to redo the password. Those pics of the trannie's guts give a clear picture of what little space there is to work with.

Those SS will sound alot better if you take the wheel/rims with the most weight on them and put them on the back. Noticed you have the one with the big freakin lead on the front

So I want to improve my gearing on the wagon without dropping the 29's. So far all I can think of is ditching the 5 spd d/r 3.90 ratio and putting a lower geared trannie/diff in. I want to reduce the gearing by about 20% has anyone had a 5 spd d/r trannie apart? Maybe I can swap in a different set of gears, what about the first drive gear off the input shaft maybe I can change that? If so then I wouldn't need to change the rear diff's gearing. I'm going to grab a d/r 5dpd trannie from the graveyard and open it up and try to work something out, be real nice to stuff an lsd in there too. Anybody open one of these up?

IF anyone else is interested in a fiberglass scoop please PM me.

Yeah I'll second that, especially the last part. There's alot of mis-information out there regarding octane ratings relating to mileage and/or performance gains. 87 has more energy in it than 92, if your engine is timed correctly for 87 and has a clean fuel system then you should get better mileage from regular.

and wear gloves this stuff is not good for you or your cars ppaint

Stay away from any higher end sparkplugs, most are too hot for ea82t. Any gains you make with better spark will be lost when you have to move the timing back to stop detonation. NGK's are good.