98sub2500leg

Is the speedometer and RPM on the instrument cluster both controlled by the speed sensor? The RPM works, speedometer doesn't, no cruise control.

It is getting a 0500 code. I removed the cluster and tightened those screws. No change though. The instrument speedometer does seldomly come back on for short spurts. The fact that it does, although it is not solid as it should be. For example at 40mph, it flutters flutters at 40mph or close to it then completely drops out. It leads me to believe there is a connection issue.

Does anyone have a good picture of one. The one off the Internet shows a threaded emd. No flats for a socket or wrench that I can see. How do you remove it. Also, what is the best way to test it once removed. I have a variable power supply to test it. I would need the pinouts and voltage readings.

How do you remove the speed sensor from from the transmission housing, looks like there are threads on the sensor? Once removed how can you test it? Does anyone have any pictures?

How do you remove the speed sensor from from the transmission housing, looks like there are threads on the sensor? Once removed how can you test it? Does anyone have any pictures?

Also, the cruise control is somehow linked to this circuit and also stopped working.

My speedometer stopped working. It has intermittently came back but when I saw it come back on, it was not registering actual speed and dropped out again. I investigated the cluster. It seems to be ok. There was an older thread about a bad solder joint but it's on a 99 model. The panels on the flex circuit are totally different than the 98 model which I have. ODB2 shows speed sensor. Haven't checked that out yet. Any thoughts.

I'm in need of a lot of parts for my 98 Outback. I'm looking for a good recommendation for a parts supplier with competitive pricing.

Well, there isn't much clearance on the 98' to the sidewall that's for sure. I loosen the plug with the Gloyale combo. I'm sure a lot of us have many a plug sockets from the rubber coming out then having to purchase yet another one. On a few occasions I grabbed the wrong socket with the rubber out of the socket(lost) and found out after the plug was unscrewed. Lucky for me I have small enough hands to get the tips of 2 fingers into the holes and grab the end of the extension, angle the extension to grab the socket and maneuver it out-not fun. Dave's method with the rubber would have saved me some grief though.

I think I got it working ok now. I charged it a bit with a 12 oz. can of r134a got the numbers up to 25 and 180 and that is very relative as the pressures are always changing and trying to equalize with the delta T. The compressor stays on for about 50 seconds with the door open, about 20 sec with it closed. The outside temp. was 75 deg F. cools good but still cycles more than I expected but cooling is acceptable. One of the big problems I was having was that I was testing it at too low an ambient temperature. It seems the best way to properly charge it and test is to have a heat load on a warm day, not a cool day. I also tested our Caravan which has one of the best ac systems I have ever seen it really chills. It seems to cycle about the same.

I am also getting poor milage (about 20-21mpg). My machinist told me that even though the O2 sensor will work after you had a HG problem when you previously had a coolant leak into the engine. He said it may or may not throw a code, but will still work and be at the high end of the tolerance scale of the sensor. These sensors usually get plugged up with coolant in the exhaust after HG, or just high mileage. However, I believe if possible,the part should be tested properly before being replaced. There must be a tolerance for testing the resistance rating with a multimeter, but I would think to test it properly you it you need to take a reading while the engine is running. However, if you disconnect the sensor to test it wouldn't the mixture will be thrown off to the ECU thus giving an erroneous reading? I would think the expensive diagnostic equip. would plug into the ECU side and give it the voltage it is looking for so the sensor could be tested while the engine is running open loop. I can't think of any other reliable way it could be tested. OB, is this the case? He also recommended heating up the pipe before removing to make it easier if replacing it.

I have the same make, model, except I have a manual trans. I just got done doing mine, it's not difficult, there needs to be a lot of attention to fine details. If it has a leak, where is it exactly (has he properly diagnosed it). What was the compression of each of cylinder before he started the head gasket job and what are the numbers now? Did it make the knock before they started the job? One mistake I made when I did mine was before I started I didn't check the compression before I started the job. Not required but a good practice whenever tearing into any engine. If you can get access to an OBD2 tester you can check the engine codes. Some auto parts stores such as will test it if you bring the car to them or they have a loaner program where essentially you borrow it. The connector to plug it into is behind a cover to the lower left side of the steering wheel on the lower dash. If possible check the codes and report back. Just a recommendation, be careful if they recommend any parts, they seem to push parts you absolutely don't need. You shouldn't replace anything until you properly diagnose the problem by troubleshooting the root cause of the problem. I also can't help wonder if he was off on the timing belt. It's a fairly easy job, but again it's also easy to screw it up, especially on this car (DOHC). If I were you and you can't do this, either find another reputable shop to take it to get it diagnosed, or just pay a diagnose fee to the dealer to have them troubleshoot it. Then you will know instead of guessing. Before you do that though see if you get some good responses here to help diagnose it. Good luck, and report back on findings.

Very informative info, thanks to Scooby and OBW. I had a can of freon on the shelf from Interdynamics. It has a pressure gauge with limits. Example, 0-25-low, 26-45 filled, 46-65-alert, 66-225 warning. They have a system pressure chart as a general rule (depending on make/model). The method you described is more accurate OB and Scooby seems to have the right amount of freon to add for my car. Yesterday was too cool to do anything later today should be ok. I will add a bit of freon and repost. Functionally, it does cool and during the compressor cycle the evaporator cools the air inside rapidly. I can't help wonder if the sensing bulb is reaching its set point then cutting out. I doubt it though. http://www.efproducts.com/oneadmin/faqsupport/home.print.php?faq_id=53&category_id=12[/url]

Sorry, I just checked it again and the the answer to question #2 is it reaches equilibrium with in about 5 sec. The on cycle reads as following: 1st 50 sec cycle(on): Low=26 High=115 off for 8 sec then on cycle2 readings: Low=20 High=110 off 8 sec, then on cycle 3 readings: Low=20 High=105 off 8 sec, then on cycle 4 readings same as cycle 3 and the numbers are still slowly dropping when the 8 seconds is up and the compressor hits it off cycle.