98sub2500leg

If the belt is still on and assuming the flywheel is on also, I stuck a small screwdriver in the flywheel hole to lock it into place so the crank won't move then loosen each bolt. I believe one instance I did use an impact (for removal only), but still with the flywheel locked. If the cams are locked on there after the bolts are off use 2 fingers from behind each cam 180 degrees apart from each other and slowly rock it back & forth, it should come out. Mine were locked on there solid-wouldn't budge. Tried everything to remove, then used the finger method, took several rocks to work it loose, finally came out. Good luck.

I agree it's a racket, it must be almost all profit because everyone is selling it out there. If you keep up on your service, it's unlikely that you would have a major service within 100k miles that paid for the service. Another better option is to take the funds you are paying the insurer and apply it to a personal auto maintenance account Over time you will more than likely be ahead. If you use it, no big deal, if you don't you now have a small personal stash for a rainy day.

I agree that the symptoms lead to timing again. I know I did it right this time. I am still working towards taking the covers off again. I removed the intake cover to get to the injector connector. I couldn't find a noid light, so I disconnected one injector and connected my Fluke 87 to the injector connector and cranked the starter. No pulse. I also tried it on peak hold with no voltage. It should have measured something. If I can remember right the peak hold measures to 250ms. Even when it was not on peak hold I should have seen the meter jumping during pulses. When I took off the intake cover I can smell all the gas coming out the hoses (strong). When the starter was engaged for a few seconds with the air cover off (maf connected), and after the 3 second start cycle was over the engine kick a bit like it tried to fire on one cylinder for an instant, but barely noticeable. This only seems to do this with the air housing off. I wonder if there could be too much fuel in the chambers from all the firing (unlikely but a hopeful thought). Before removing the covers I will remove the injectors and try to air out the system (good suggestion Logcall). For logcall, the crank bolt was easily removed by Dave's method and later re installed per Gloyale in earlier post suggestions. I have the manual transmission. Thanks for the injector removal idea.

Before removing the covers again. I don't have a stethascope, but used the long screwdriver method. I can't say I am hearing the injectors click or open & close. I am to trying to find a noid light, having trouble finding one, will probably have to build my own. Just thinking, I wonder what the chance is that the valves are bent and there isn't enough compression to fire. Just a thought. Whats the trick to getting those plugs out?

I'm willing to try just about anything here. Do you want to me verify the positions of sprockets, belt to sprockets, and crank sprocket? Other than that what am I checking?

I will check the fuel,injectors. Although I can smell unburned gas from the tailpipe after hcranking. Yes on the timing, unless something changed since I put the covers back, but doubt it. I removed the belt, counted teeth and marked the belt in those positions. removed the tensioner, lowered the shaft & reinserted the pin then reinstalled it. Realigned the cam sprockets, checked, triple checked. Aligned the crank sprocket, keyway down, marked circle up at 12:00. reinstalled the belt and counted the teeth to proper positions. Removed tentioner pin, reinstalled covers, ect.. Not sure

Just checked the coilpack, there is good spark on all 4 secondary outputs of the pack. Is there a way to test the ECM? Seems strange it isn't even trying to start given there is spark. Possibly the new plugs got fouled with oil when the timing was off, I thought I read another similar post to that effect. What is the trick to removing those long deep plug boots? Is there something else that would work to remove the boot, or do I specifically need a boot puller. Even if you get them off, seems like there is barely enough room for a deep socket to fit down into the cylinder not to mention the ratchet head before it binds against the sidewall.

I rechecked all the connectors again, harness and connectors look good. I reemphasize just before starting the engine all the dash lights come on, the airbag & abs eventually goes out, then I crank and the oil & check eng. lights then go out. Cranks, but no start.

Ok, everything is back together, engine crank sounds normal now when cranking the starter. I don't hear any obvious abnormal sounds. I am back to the original thread "engine won't start". The 1st time I pulled the engine then restarted it after re-installation it started up on the second crank to my amazement. For an update this is the second time around on the same job. The 1st time the cam siezed , shattered sprocket and ruined TB. Pulled the engine again, replaced cylinder head & gasket, this is the 2nd reinstall. Hand cranking the crank I can feel normal compression. The check engine light is on. Something tells me I'm not getting spark.

I shouldn't have referenced the aarows in the post it makes it confusing. I did have the cams in place, but the crank position was incorrect reletive to the cam positions. I have the belt repositioned, the timing covers back on, crank pulley in place. What is the best method to re-tighten the crank bolt? Also, should I disconnect the crank position sensor first, then use the starter to crank the engine to make sure there are no major noises, issues before attempting to start?

Well, it worked like a charm. I used my 3/4" black pipe cheeter bar over my 1/2" drive wrench. Had to use the chopsaw to chop off about 10". On the copyright issue, I see a lot of patents are applied for then posted on the internet to prove who had designed what and when. Used to be approx $5k for patent costs(attorney, ect..), that was about 15-20 years ago, not sure what it is now. I'm not even sure you actually need an attorney these days. You may be able to apply yourself then post your design. I also there is some waiting period to see if anyone challanges it, not sure how long that is.

Yes it off, somehow there was another pain mark on that sprocket and it got aligned to that mark. The key I should have paid attention to is keyway at 6:00, round mark at TDC and the small tiny aarow should align to 2:00 with the cam aarows (not cam marks). Well shoot hopefully there is no valve damage, but that would be probably hoping for too much. well see tomorrow. Thanks again for the help.

Well, my cheeter pipe was about 2', just chopped it down to about 15" or so on the chop saw. Dave also saved me a trip to town. Wasn't sure where to put the bar, my 22mm long fits fine. Got the bar in place, battery reconnected, should have an answer soon. Man alive I sure hope there isn't valve damage. Be back soon.

Good info to know. Can I use a standard 22m socket or will it shatter? I just located a standard at the local supplier, thats all they have. Also, could I have fried the ecm? How can I tell?

Hi Dave, Yeah I'm hoping not. Without a doubt the cam sprockets were in the right position and I remember rechecking the crank 3x, but still want to check it When hand cranking the crank sprocket by hand, it doesn't sound right, but it maybe just the oil and compression (I don;t know). It does rotate and it has compression where you would expect it. I have to head into town tomorrow and get a short 22m socket to do this. Thanks for responding. I determined to get this thing running again.

Well, that is good news, sounds like you have done this method before. Do you just jam the cheeter (attached to the wrench against the ground then crank the starter? Bryan

Thanks, you just saved me some $$. Although I read a while ago a post from a guy who had swapped his blown motor with a Japan engine, and it didn't work. He said he hooked up his OBD2 and got several different error codes. I can't remember the exact problem though. I thought it was a ground strap issue.

I had the article printed out from before, there was a great write up with great color pics. Yeah the more I have been thinking about it the more I believe it to be the timing. Currently trying to remove the front cover this time without having to pull the engine the 3rd time (yikes!). Got the rad. fans out but only have a 22mm long socket only a short socket will work without removing the radiator. I am resigned to the socket wrench with extension jammed to the ground while cranking the starter. If there is a better way let me know as that seems to barbaric of a method for removing the crank bolt but on the other hand a better option than removing the engine again.

The aarows on the cams are at the 2:00 position when the intake single marks are at at 12:00, the intake or upper cam double marks are then aligned at 6:00, also in line with the lower cam double marks at 12:00. I read the last post about 2 weeks ago and am now having second thoughts on the crank sprocket, but I know I double and triple checked it. I also made a red paint mark lined up at the top and made sure it was also there (identical to the last reinstall). I haven't got the code reader yet. I will no doubt be getting one.

Engine: 98 EJ25, manual Just got done replacing the bad head and HG, then reinstall, engine won't start. Starter only sounds normal for less than a second during cranks, it has a high pitch sound. It is turning the crank though. Can smell gas out of the tailpipe. Rechecked all connections at least a dozen times. Everything is connected that I can see. I checked the engine-battery ground and chassis ground, all are ok. The fuses seem to be ok. The timing belt was installed correctly, all cam sprocket aarows were at the 2:00 position, the sprocket marks lined up correctly, the crank sprocket was at TDC. All teeth were counted while lined up. Rechecked all connections again all seem ok. Hopefully didn't fry the ECM. Doesn't seem to be getting any spark, but not sure. Since the last head siezed due to cam failure and was oil starved I kept all the 3 main harness connectors behind the passenger side engine-trans. , coilpack, and crank sensor unplugged this time then cranked over the engine to build oil pressure. I loosened the 3 valve cover bolts and oil poured out (a good sign). When I was cranking the starter initially, it seemed to start normally at first then it went into the high pitch sound. Has anyone seen this problem before? The starter is working well and is cranking the engine over. Keep in mind I just got done changing out the right side head and gasket which ended up in a failure last time due to oil starvation on the right side cylinder head. Never did find anything conclusive on that. So on the last round before the cam siezure and engine reinstall it started right up, then quit. It has to either be a connection problem or I fried the ECM. Do I need to buck up for an OBD2 tester? Any clues?

Update: When I removed the old head and gasket I used a sharpie to mark the outer side of the HG before removing it for inspection (in other words I did have it on correctly). It can be easily be installed backwards which will entirely block oil flow to the head, which is exactly what seems to have happened. I picked up a good used head and new HG from another member. Inspected and tested all the ports, everywhere with compressed air. No sign of cloggage anywhere. No traces of contaminants, no squeezeout of RTV, no pieces of RTV, great seals. Reinstalled the head, HG, oil pump and pan (with hesitation since I have not found the problem). Got the engine back in but accidentally hit the AC condensor-(woops), but that is the least of my problems. I figured I can remove the top cover (breather) on the valve cover to check for oil. I can only see into the top of the cover a bit down (you cannot fully see down into the valves, but hopefully enough to see if oil is flowing through. Not planning on starting this time until I can verify oil in those cylinders. I still have the radiator out, ac compressor, alt, PS pump disconnected. This is because I don't want to reinstalled it all then later change remove to change out the condensor. The 3 main engine connectors at the rear of the engine adjoing tranny are still disconnected and the fuel lines are also disconnected and tied off. I crank the engine which turns the crank pulley(good news), although has strange sounds (probably some ground loop with everything disconnected). Battery keeps draining quickly. Will disconnecting the crank sensor and coil pack with everything else connected be a better way to go? I thought about getting the oil pressure gauge, but in this case I want to see the oil this time in both cylinders. There should be by this time so I removed the 3 lower cylinder HD outer cover screws, oil is flowing (great news). Almost ready to reinstall everything else. Before final startup am I missing anything here. I just don't want to be saying "3rd times a charm". if you know what I mean.

I greatly appreciate it. I worked a deal with MJDJD. Hopefully, I will find the answer. At this point I hope it is a clog so I can close the issue.

Yeah, that seems to make sense. The water runs on that upper bracket and down to the ball. Both are rusted out. I didn't notice the new packages were ever opened. Both are dealer OEM. I will check with them. Thanks.

Dave- I screwed up there for sure. You did post the MMO. I meant to get it, but probably put everything back together, and then figured it would just fire up. Completely forgot about what I should have done which was get the MMO and disconnect the ignition then prime with the starter. So far the gasket sealing is all good, clean job, No internal residue, or clogs. All seals, are new OEM. Read my other updated posts. What would you do here? Next step. I'm all ears. :-\

Yes dude your right, very narrow passages. I just posted update in another post. So far the ultragrey RTV that I used was confined to the gasket area and hardened very well. So far can't see any visual cloggage in the ports. I believe maybe using red dye and air may help to find if there is an internal passage clog. If not either the pump failed (still need to check pump specs. & measure) or the pump didn't prime due to too think oil (5w30) and/ or poor initial startup procedures. The main block cylinders had plenty of oil. The right side head(the good head with the oil spout over the valve cover) was saturated. Seemed like 1/3- 1/2 qt of oil came out when that valve cover was removed. The other head hadn't seen any oil.