AKghandi

just like the title says. are they interchangeable? I just got an ea81 wagon with a striped front hub and i only have an ea82. they look pretty similar.

Got around to touching up the paint on my car, painted the front bumper and painted all the trim around the windows. also finally put the trim piece that goes under the headlights and grill back on. and to top it off I put a honey comb grill on it. Seafoam works amazingly well for bringing rubber trim back to a shine. it soaks in and lasts a long time. Still need to figure out what I'm going to do with the hood, I've painted it 3 times, and it always gets a stripe patern. Going to try some gloss instead of flat and see if that helps. i might even clear it.

also as for the trans issue, remove the dome, then the governor thats bolted down underneath it. and look at the gear on the end, if its "apple cored" it will look like an apple core. if its ok it will be a normal cylinder shape if not the middle will be skinnier.

the breaks should come off no problem even if there is a lip on the rotor, remove the 14 mm bolt on the bottom caliper slide and swing it upward. make sure the ebrake isnt set lol Nice rig!, that bumper is a custom someone made i remember reading several threads with that bumper changing hands a couple times.

..........is the maf connected and in working order? that part is unclear. also, unplug those green and white connectors. those are not meant to be connected. the white is to clear the codes, the green is a test connector used mainly for setting the timing, it makes the fuel pump cycle constantly and keep the distributor from advancing. check the distributor rotor, on the 87 there is a screw that holds the rotor in place, if its loose it will start but not rev. the trans sounds like the governor gear, it will "apple core" and make the trans not shift right. the governor is under a dome shaped thing on the top of the trans.

you have to buy one of these and a holster for it if you are going to associate it with firefly..http://www.rossiusa.com/product-details.cfm?id=194&category=17&toggle=&breadcrumbseries=

spray some silicone lube in there and just tap the lock face with a rubber mallet a couple times. . should work them loose.

your 86 should have a vane or "flapper style" maf if its faulty it will not start. theres basicly a door that opens with the airflow. unplug the maf and see if it will start. it will show a maf code.

i did this with my lifted 86 wagon while offroading, i had it at about the same angle with the front left pointing down. i noticed the oil pressure drop off to nothing but i was in a position where it was near rolling and i was stuck, so i had to run it a little more to get it out of that spot. anyways i got it on level ground it smoked a bit and it went away, havent noticed any ill effects. the oil just got on the rings, and dropped pressure. not a big deal. as long as you didnt run it for an hour like that it should be fine.

you can make a key extractor from a hack saw blade, jigsaw blades are too thick. EDIT: the saw blade in that video is a coping saw not a jig saw use this to make a template, if you want to do it cheap http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://bp1.blogger.com/_lMQ5Db_njX8/SHk4vGbSoyI/AAAAAAAAAFw/irFu8GhenA8/s400/picks1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.h-i-r.net/2008/07/make-your-own-lock-picks-part-3.html&h=320&w=400&sz=28&tbnid=Dq0JR8rm7T8hMM:&tbnh=91&tbnw=114&zoom=1&usg=__u63DHxPG6eeuU0Mc3chTa6zWCeY=&docid=x03DeqXE4EVAtM&sa=X&ei=ubzZUb77NML5igKz5YDABw&sqi=2&ved=0CDsQ9QEwBA&dur=2384 I know lots of stuff about this because i'm a novice locksmith, its a fun hobby that has come in handy many times lol

well, you can do what the locksmiths do and use a "broken key extractor which is a small thin harpoon like thing you put in next to the key and use it to pull it out. http://www.lockpickshop.com/JP-5.html or you can put a small dab of super glue on the end on a matchstick and hold it very carefully to the end of the key and try to pull it out that way

if the axle nut and washers are in place on the other side you should be ok with just the one thats stripped., but with the only thing that was holding you wheel on being your brakes you should look into that too. new pads, if it hasn't eating away at your caliper and bracket too much they could still be used at your own risk. The reason you cant drive it in 2wd with one stripped hub is called an open differential, it sends power to both wheels and if one isnt connected it sends all the power to the one thats slipping. thats why you are able to turn, if it were a locked differential, it would send equal power to both wheels but you couldn't turn very well. the 4wd light is a minor issue like gloyale said probably trans mounts. you said its a loyale with a d/r swap? maybe check the bolts and make sure they are tight.

jack up the front or rear of the car, this will make the trans unbind, this should cause the lever to be able to move back to normal. Also, the video is set to private, I cant watch it. When you adjust the clutch, you want the cable to just barely touch the clutchfork. it should be a little loose. you dont want it tight.

i have 215/75/r15's on both my lifted rigs, both are 2" lift. one has puegeot rims the other is standard chevy 6 lug steelies. I had to trim a little on one and massive ammounts on the other. main reason was the rims and tires. while the tires are the same size number, the mud terrains have much more aggressive tread, they are almost 2" taller. With the wide offset, most of the full turning circle was still there, but the fenders were trimmed alot and the fire wall was beat inward quite a bit. the other car has snow tires on Peugeot rims. barely had to trim at all, just a little off the corners of the wheel wells.. the rear I trimmed out because of rust. not for the rims It also sits about an inch lower because its a turbo. Here's the non turbo with the mud terrains. And here's the turbo with snow tires...its my baby The turbo, has a lower ratio transmission than stock so it's barely affected by the bigger tires. gas mileage is still 25mpg or so in town the non turbo grey car is carbed and not happy with those big tires, gets about 18mpg in town. and it is slow,really slow. turbo highway mpg is about 30-32 non turbo highway mpg is about 26mpg in fourth, 5th is useless, barely holding 65, it doesn't like hills lol If you dont want to trim, 185/75/r14's fit well. here's a pic with the rear lifted and the front stock, with those tires.

2 questions, when did you last adjust the clutch? and is the 4x4 lever in between gears? it will cause the car not to move. the running issue is odd.. does it start up like normal and then die or does it start slowly run badly then die?

I remember looking into this and 83 nissan 280zx turbo injectors are the same, now what flow they are rated at is unknown to me but I'm sure that information is on one of the nissan forums Edit: stock 83 turbo 280zx injectors are around 260cc. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/27536/02521.oap?year=1983&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209406&ck=Search_02521_1209406_3158&pt=02521&ppt=C0024 also, 87 to 92 supra turbo injectors are 440cc, but would require some work to fit

Judging by the look of that you need a new hub, and probably caliper, brackets and brake pads maybe rotor... you may not need to replace the axle they are pretty hard steel and should be ok.. and with all those metal shavings being the bearing area, you may need a new wheel bearing. soooooo how long was the horid grinding noise going on before you decided to take a look?....

that'd be my brothers wagon. 86 gl 2" lift and 29" BFG mud terrain KM2's http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/135935-brothers-wagon/

how did you tow it?.... i hope it wasnt on a dolley with the drive shaft in.. no beuno

made some more progress on the car today. I've been wondering why my MPG's were not what they used to be... and I figured that out this morning. while checking an amplifier to see if it worked i noticed the fuel filter leaking like a siv... threw a new all metal one on and all is good now. and while I was in there I replaced the battery, alternator, battery terminals, and cleaned up the wires. car runs really really smooth now. I'm quite happy. Once the weather gets better I'm going to wash and paint the car, touch up the rust areas and re-black the trim. should be pretty spiffy. i may or may not put the exhaust back on. still not decided on that one. and of course the plague of the lifted subaru has struck and the pass side inner c/v boot tore.. I've got another axle to put in and I have another inner boot.. not sure which I'll do yet, I HAVE TOO MANY SUBARUS .. I currently have 4... all lined up on the street. the two lifted rigs, the red parts car and a recently acquired $150 90 loyale.

no, replacing the boot is easy, theres a ring on the inside of the cup, right near the edge really easy to get out. then theres the c clip that holds the ball and cage assembly to the shaft. it can be kinda tricky if you dont have c clip pliers. but you should be able to get it with a flat head screw driver. instead of using traditional boot clamps, alot of people use heavy duty zipties. its alot easier just pull them tight then grab the tag end right next to the latch with a pair of needle nose pliers, and turn till it locks in tight then trim. http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-heavy-duty-cable-ties-10-pack-66487.html like these

if it was in 4x4 when you did that then it should have locked all 4 wheels. as the 4x4 on these solidly connectes the front ans rear wheels.

easy peasy.. take you less than an hr with no odd tools. a 14mm wrench or socket, a 17mm a 36mm for the axle nut and some pliers for the cotter pin. to get the axle out of the knuckle just put a peice of wood between the threads and a good size hammer. it should come right out. to get the axle back through the spindle feed it through till you can get the nut back on then use a couple flat head screw drivers to pry it through till you can get the hub on and then tighten it to pull it through the rest of the way.. also dont bother removing the brakes, instead just remove the 4 14mm bolts that hold the hub to the rotor. and remove the hub. this should help.

glad you got it figured out.. i still see the white connector plugged together, though i'm sure you unplugged it after that picture.. as far as the ebrake, stomp the brakes once then yank the ebrake, then yank the ebrake and stomp the brakes.then hold the ebrake and pump the brakes then vice versa. this will adjust the ratchet mechanism that keeps the ebrake tight.. its not an exact science but youll get it if you mess with it.. i have found on the autos the ebrake gets out of adjustment because no one uses it. hope that helps.

this is what the vacuum soleniods look like, on a push button 5 speed anyways, as i recall they are the same on an auto with 4x4... and this is where and what the 2wd fuse is I dont have the fuse inplace because i have a D/R now and my 4x4 is lever operated. Its possible you don't have a 4x4 trans but instead a fulltime awd trans, and the button might be the Manual button. which explains the lack of vacuum soleniods.. we need more pictures, like one of the entire engine bay and the outside, the emblems and such, and one of the shifter. this will help us figure his out.