AKghandi

you know, the vacuum solenoids are usually behind the drivers strut top.. but I don't see them in the pic/ also in that pic i see the green connectors are plugged together.. unplug those. they are not suposed to be plugged together normally. they are used for setting the timing. The green and white connectors in that pic should not be plugged together. ones for setting the timing and the other is for clearing codes.

Something tells me after you rally that car, that Quattro san will have a new destiny.

you know, i cant believe i didnt say this before, but check the screw on the distributor rotor. if its loose, it may cause the issues your having. just a thought.

did you try unplugging the maf? and pulling up on the intake boot? try those and see if they change anything. if unpluggin the maf makes it start and idle normaly that could be your problem. Heres a video i did when my turbo was acting up, This was before i figured it out. it was first the intake boot then the maf http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaK6B5RHknU

one thing to consider, is how much power our stock alternators make..not alot. you can power it but your head lights light dim with the beat.

check the intake boot, from the MAF to the turbo. it sounds like its leaking, also try unplugging the MAF and see if it starts easier. it wont boost, but it should start and idle just fine

FINALLY!!!!! I got the trans replaced, its soooo good to drive my car again. New trans! And heres the victim. I also made a video which will be uploaded soon

just for anyone in the future with this problem. did you get it figured?

the pics aren't working for me, anyone else have this issue?

I found seafoam works really well for bringing old plastic back to life. seafoam is pure petroleum and plastic is made from petroleum, it works well..

under the carpet in the passenger side footwell, is a power spliter it sends power to the doors. check that first. it should be one red wire going to 2 red wires,4 if it were a wagon. the connection gets corroded after years of being under wet carpet/

the forsale section on this forum is going to be your best bet, you might get lucky on ebay. rockauto usually has mechanical parts.

i have gotten countless subies for cheap because of this issue, 2 mins later and i got a good running car lol

theres already a couple threads for this.. but i will ad some as soon as i can. i never have a cameraman when i go mud flinging.

thats not a bad time at all.

Hey nice to see another alaskan on here, thats 4 that i know of. hows the weather up there?

Well lets see, 87 gl-10 turbo wagon. when I deliver I pay about $25 in gas for roughly 100 miles a day.( i flog the absolute crap out of it.) so thats about 18 mpg but driven lightly i can get 20+mpg. $250 every 2 years for tags $150 a month for insurance. which will get lower, eventually. hopefully.. the normal adult here pays about $50 a month then theres the oil, 2 quarts a month, so $10. looking at all the numbers from you guys it seems its much cheaper here in AK, in this respect anyways.

1 gallon.

I wish i could be there but I'm a little far north lol Be sure to get lots of video for those who cant make it!

you want 87-89 GL, l series, or leone its not an rx, as those are turbo. the only thing you need to make sure is whether your cap is a screw on or clamp on. 86-94 is all pretty much interchangeable on most everything. usually order parts for after 86, as you might get parts for an EA81 instead of EA82

good to know. I'm sure I'll figure something once i get the winch/

the general consensus is NGK R's. HTH

If he relocates the maf after the IC before the TB he wouldn't have any issues and the ECU would get more accurate readings

good to know, I dont have much of a welder or welding experience but I think I can manage to melt some steel to it. I was also kicking around the idea of mounting the winch INSIDE the bumper. I think it would fit, i wouldn't be able to use the freespool feature but the one i want has a power out so thats not too big an issue. the only thing is I'd have to figure out a way to reinforce the hole cut in the back without welding it shut. maybe bolt some 1" 3/16 steel strips in an x shape over the hole? It would look really clean with the bumper skin put back on, and i think from the inside it would be better for the bumper, as it would pull from the center instead of the top.

Front mount/top mount. thats should be your first mod. the piping will be kinda annoying but its the best thing you can do for this motor. double check then triple check your cooling system and replace every hose. cooling is a big issue on these. next, get a td04 turbo. the little turbo these have is very restrictive. I recomend getting the TD04 with a top mount off a wrx/ that way you get a bigger turbo, the piping is easy for the IC and you get a built in BOV. then use the exhaust off the Td04 car 3 birds with one stone. you will have to modify your up pipe to use the TD04, and cut a hole for a hood scoop. there was a custom up pipe in the for sale section that would work. You dont want to add more boost, you will just end up blowing the heads. there Isn't much you can do with that motor to make. more power. Even the rally team in the late 80's only had 200hp from the ea82t. and they were not known to last long/ If you do decide to add more boost, you will need to address the fuel system, and that means new pump, injectors and fpr. the stock system will only support about 12lbs of boost and not very well. As far as lowering is concerned, get a cheap set of coil over sleeves for an older honda, they should work though I dont know the specifics. As i tend to lift instead of lower. As far as the 5 lug swap is concerned, dont do it, send your hubs to SJRLIFT.com and have him machine them to a 4x100 pattern. much easier, and rims will be plentiful