AKghandi

^+1. also, ONLY RUN PREMIUM. it is the only thing the turbos like. if you don't you will have problems.

I'd say thats normal. My 87 gl-10 wagon gets about 25mpg and I have the 5 speed. the 3 speed will rob you of a lot of mpg. i have over sized tires, but i also have a 3.9 ratio transmission, instead of the 3.7. when i drive it hard i get about 20 and if i drive it easy about 26, on the highway i get close to 30. 123k??? that is a baby, mine has twice that. 250k still going strong. the tanks is 15.9 gallons, and it will read empty at 13 gals. the other 2.9 is reserve. you can go quite a while on empty. you might get slightly better mpgs with a good seafoaming.

like I have said before I wish I were closer, I'd help you get it figured and repaired. you would be surprised how many cars I work on for free. for the head gaskets, undo the engine mount bolts and jack the motor up by the oil pan. this will give you enough clearance to get the heads off. much easier.

the good thing about that sealant, is it just fills the cracks, the rest gets rinsed out. if i had a head gasket problem that's the first thing i would try, just because i have used it before and i know what it does, i used on an old 2.2 dodge, and replaced the head gasket a week later, and the sealant was filling the just the leak. cleaned up pretty easily too.. dodge 2.2/2.5 are my favorite motors. especially the turbo ones. as far as a proper fix goes, do a leak down test first, it may not be the head/ gasket. it may be an intake gasket leak. the #4 cyl might just happend to be the one with the intake valve open. and also get the coolant out and start it back up. burn the coolant out. and see how bad it steams.(not the best but hey, we are teens with limited resousrces.)

I'm very sorry to hear about that, but I do know a way to fix it at least temporarily . I have had very very good luck with this stuff, http://www.amazon.com/CRC-401232-Permanent-Gasket-Nanotechnology/dp/B000M8NZ70 They have it at O'reillys Granted its not a fix, but it will keep you going down the road for a while. We put it in a car that was steaming so bad you couldn't see it if you were behind it, and not even 3 minutes later, the steam just stopped. and stayed that way. to my knowledge its still going strong.(this was 3 years ago..) this isn't your normal stop leak, it doesn't clog heater cores or radiators. it is however quite a process, drain the coolant, rinse with water, refill with water, add stop leak, idle for 30 mins, drain and refill with anifreeze. and so on.

why not hook the explorer to the subie and pull it up the drive way? it should have more than enough power to pull it up to the street.

.... I have said it before and I'll say it again... best subaru ever. have you thought about contacting any car magazines or shows? I personally like TUNED on the "drive" channel on youtube just an example, but still a pretty cool car.

just a random thought, you didn't get any coolant into the intake when you were doing the gasket, did you?.. it may be hydro locked if you did..

axle swaps are very easy, takes about an hr, basically pull the axle nut, and loosen the lug nuts. jack the car up, undo the roll pin on the transmission side of the axle(there is a correct punch for this but I found a normal Philips screw driver will work), make note which way the dimple on the axle is facing, IIRC you push it out through the non dimpled side and put it in through the dimpled side. this is important, as the axle will go on wrong and the roll pin will not go all the way back in. after you have done that pull the 4 14mm bolts holding the hub to the rotor and remove the hub.(some people remove the caliper and pull the rotor and hub together, which in my eyes is a waste of time.) . now comes the fun part the Ball Joint, pull the 14mm BJ pinch bolt at the bottom of the knuckle, and spread it carefully with something then pry the control arm down against the knuckle, the BJ should pop out of the knuckle. if it doesn't, then remove the 2 17mm bolts holding the radius rod to the control arm, then remove the 14mm bolt holding the control arm to the front sub frame. now you should have the bottom of the knuckle free to move out ward, pull it outward and it should pop off the transmission, if it doesn't you may need to pry it a little bit. once that's off use a block of wood and a hammer to tap the axle out of the knuckle, using the block of wood to protect the end of the axle from the hammer. and now your axle should be out! to get the axle back into the knuckle push it through till you can put the axle nut on and then prying it out with either 2 claw hammers, or 2 screw drivers.one on each side. once it's pried out enough you can put the hub back on and use to axle nut to pull it more of the way through. then remove and add the cone washer and flat washer and tighten it up to pull it completely through this is how I do it and in ideal conditions I can do it in under 20 mins. but I have also done it about 15 times. others will hopefully step in and share something i might have missed, but thats the basics of it.

well rotarys are very very simple, theres only a handfull of moving parts, even a 12a with some mild porting can make 200hp+ they can make 350hp N/A with periferal ports which would be completely unusable on the road, as they idle at about 3k are loud as hell and dont make power till about 8k. most porting is very cheap, you really only need a dremmel and a template. of course while your at it might as well refresh all the seals. http://www.mazdarotary.net/porting.htm i wouldn't put a v8 into one of these, it just wouldn't be practical at all. but a 10k reving rotary making 200hp+ would make a hell of a subie. I'm in the same boat as you, 19 and broke. but if i were to make a drift subie I'd pick up one of the many $200 rx7's around here and strip it for its running gear and put it into a subie. supra stuff would hold it but good luck finding some on the cheap.

iffn your wanting more power to make the wagon slideways, why not pick up an old rx7? the motor and tranny on those have only 2 mounts, one at the front of the motor, and one at the back of the trans. and theres alot of power to be had from a rotary. if you were going to put a v8 in it i would suggest getting an rx7 just for the rear axle, no subie diff will hold the tq. also rx-7s are very similar in length and width as a gl, so the drive shaft might work as is. just my two cents.

with the cars with the lever, there is no engage time it is instant, even on the ea81s. the lo lights are just a bit slow sometimes. on push buttons it takes a second to engage. 4hi and 4lo are synchro'd so you can use them while moving in a straight line with the clutch engaged. there should be about 2" of free play at the pedal. the book says like 1.4" or something. On my turbo wag, which was a push button and is now a dual range, I have been known to abuse the trans pretty hard, I have used lo to race an sti had him for the first 100 ft or so. I have even locked up all 4 wheels, put it in lo, thrown it in reverse, floored it and dropped the clutch while going about 40mph FORWARD. The bushings weren't too happy about it, but it did it with out complaint. If you are wondering why, some idiot pulled out in front of me on a very slick road, and brakes would not have been enough. I have had to do that a few times. handy trick but very hard to master if you cant heel and toe. I don't recommend practicing unless you have a frozen lake or something. I am also not your ordinary driver lol. I spend more time practicing heel and toe and left foot braking then I do parallel parking. of course on abandoned roads or parking lots my trans has 380k on it...car has 250k my point is, you don't need to baby it, at all lol. Of course I am looking for reasons to do an engine and trans swap to an ej with an rx trans and 5 lug. so I'm not exactly gentle... damn thing wont die lol I do recommend double checking all the nuts and bolts in a couple hundred miles. HAVE FUN

Lol glad I could help. and just a little fyi, you loosen the cable as the clutch wears. I've never heard anything about breaking in a clutch, but I am also not a professional mechanic. CONGRATS on your first major repair, in my opinion a tranny swap is probably the hardest thing to do on these

I have had to deal with resetting the TOB on the clutch fork, not on a subie though, only on small transverse fwds. sorry hear about that. If I were closer I'd give you a hand but there's a lot of wilderness between us lol

does the clutch fork move easilly toward the back of the car?. it should reach a point where it becomes very hard to move, but sill move. i cant think of a way you could have done it wrong. maybe tighten up the clutch cable it should be almost tight, at the end of the fork play. so tighten it till it pulls the clutch fork all the way towards the back, then loosen it a couple threads. the adjusting nuts on the end of the cable should be almost to the bottom of the threads. heres what my adjustment looks like, i just replaced my clutch about a week ago. everything else might be a little different than yours.

after plugs and oil that's the first thing I do with any subie I get, makes a world of difference especially if the previous owners were elderly. on these motors, as long as its got oil it should be ok. ive seen one of these with a rod knock revved to 7k for a solid 10 minutes. it still ran after.

as for the speedo cable, in fwd with one front wheel off the ground, have some one turn the wheel thats off the ground while you put the speedo cable in. clutch cable, vise grips on the end of the cable,there should be a squareish part at the bottom of the threads.

sorry to hear that.. the low mileage ones are usually the rusty ones.. because they most likely sat for a while I hope you can find a replacement soon!

thats going to be alot of fun.

the bogging sounds like an intake pipe leak, check the pipe from the top of the motor to the air box, it may be split on the underside. congrats on your new subie, after you get the bugs worked out I'm sure you'll leave that s10 parked a lot lol

I seem to remember someone using window defrost repair paint to repaint the contact areas. Take it with a grain of salt though.

Well my wagon hit 250k a couple days ago but I just had the chance to get a pic. 87 GL-10 stock EA82T. Who says they dont last?

Finally got around to replacing my radius rod bushings. WHAT A DIFFERENCE. its not so squirrelly in FWD when I floor it and the front end just feels so much tighter. Last thing I need to do is install that Leece Neville 140 amp semi alternator. But I think that can wait. for now i need to put all my hard work to use and get a job

do what i did to a wagon i had with a bad clock, put an ipod in there. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128425-ea82-dash-clock-ipod-upgrade-now-with-pics/?do=findComment&comment=1090824

no pics, due to lack of camera but the 87 gl-10 got a new clutch, rear diff snout bushing, drivers front caliper, both front door card top pieces, cargo area carpet, and a good cleaning. The interior has a couple stains but aside from that it is 100%.