AKghandi

I finally got the clutch replaced, now all I have left to do is minor stuff I can do in my garage. took me a grand total of 5 hrs over 2 days. all I did was unbolt the engine from the trans, unbolt the engine mounts, pulled the radiator and slid the motor forward enough to replace the clutch. the only things I had to unhook from the motor was the air intake, and the heater core lines. Thank you Miles Fox for the pressure plate bolts through the starter hole trick. I couldn't get a clutch alignment tool in there. lol Man are there a lot of leaks though. valve covers, oil pump, oil pan, turbo return lines, even the hill holder is leaking. just that much more to do. oh well, I'll pull the motor and do a reseal on it in a few months. I didn't take any pictures, because I was working in the cold and snow, sorry.

I got the BOSS lift from thebeastidrive its only $120 and is very well made. with the sjr kit you have to drop the cross member an inch to help with the C/V angles with the boss kit there is no cross member drop. same 2" lift just one is a little harder on your axles. On my car i have had no issues with axles because the turbos sit a little lower then the N/A cars. install is easy, they are just spacers that go on top of the factory struts. can be done in a few hrs. the front is kinda difficult getting the struts back into the knuckles with the spacers but still very doable.

Well maybe not lockers, but ebay has factory and aftermarket LSD's for them. but even if you weld it, its got to be stronger than a factory subaru set up/ I had an 82 GSL about a year ago, didn't work out very well....

That's just the ratio they come with, so you wouldn't need to run a t-case, you could hook right to the 3.90 transmission. There are however 3.7-4.11 gear sets for them. The main reasons I want the rx7 diff, is the size of the pumpkin, available lockers/LSD's, and the width of the diff itself, a little more than 58" flange to flange. also, no more having to worry about breaking axles and stubs. From pictures of your rig it looks like the diff is inline with the axles, so you wouldn't loose too much, on level ground anyways. here's one next to a shortened ford 9". sorry about the thread jack.

good point. I do enjoy the massive amount of ground clearance at the rear diff. it's just an idea that I've had in my head for a while. when I get around to building a serious wheeler it will be a t-cased rig with a rx7 rear, set up on 4 link with coil overs, just to be different.

that thing is so bad rump roast! I'm no expert but if you were to add a solid rear axle it would balance things out right? like one from say a first gen RX7 GSL. 3.90 gears with a LSD rear disc and ebrake. Probably more work than you're willing but would be pretty cool to see a subie flex.

good video! its always fun to watch an old subie showing a new one how its done lol

you should watch that whole series. if i remember, they were putting a 5speed into an auto car, so that should tell you alot of the things you need to know.

the 2wd clutch is different. IRRC ones 8" ones 10" some one will correct me if I'm wrong. but have you adjusted the clutch? they are not self adjusting pull the spare tire and look at the clutch cable, if theres some threads left on the cable end you probably dont need a new clutch. its a common thing for subie newbies/

if I were to attempt that, with that limited of tools I would drop the whole front subframe. engine transmission and front suspension. its a real pain to get the transmission lined back up under the car, those transmissions aren't exactly light. its a bit more work, but it will be eaiser in the long run. When I do a clutch I pull the motor, its alot easier than dropping the transmission. but thats not exactly an option with your plans. the clutch itself is easy, there will be like 6 bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel, when you remove it the clutch disc will fall out. then you unbolt the flywheel and use something like a socket to pop out the pilot bearing. then tap the new one in, bolt the flywheel back up put the new clutch disc in put the new pressure plate on and get the bolts started. then put the clutch alignment tool into the clutch disc and pilot bearing, and slowly tighten the pressure plate bolts while making sure the alignment tool slides in and out easily until the pressure plate bolts are tight. then theres the throw out bearing, its pretty easy to figure out.

I think your t belts are a little too tight, they should ride in the center of the pulleys..

well I've been driving the snot out of the car, no problems real problems yet. although one of the front cv boots tore, I have 2 brand new spares so I just gotta find the time to fix it. In other news I cranked up the factory rear struts, and did more trimming in the front. only rub is at full lock now.

good eye, yeah theres something up with the headlights, the high beams dont work, but if i hold the lever just right one will go on high beam.. havent looked into it yet but its on my list. after I get my subaru fixed I got a whole load of parts to go onto it but I've been busy with this one.

yeah 15x6 or 15x7 not really sure, if you want better offset go for some off an isuzu trooper. they seem to have a much better offset. these stick out a few inches. Thanks! it wouldn't be the same without your lift! although I did have a slight problem with the front lift blocks, the center section isnt quite straight with the bottom section. so they dont sit flush on the top hats, as a result the front tires are cambered out by a degree or two. I will be taking them off and grinding the lips out so they sit flush. For the price I cant complain though I have some more things to do to it, like crank up the rear struts so the tires wont rub. and figure out some fender flares, so it doesnt get so dirty so quick. took it wheeling the other day, did pretty dam good. needs a welded rear though. Stay tuned.

when I first used the MAF cleaner I doused it, and shortly after my MAF went bad. I dont mean to question you, I know you are the master of the ea82t. just a little FYI for the turbo newbie

I might have to disagree, if you do use the CRC MAF cleaner, give it 2 or 3 short sprays and just on the wire, make sure its unpluged. Also make sure the intake pipe from the MAF to the turbo doesn't leak. If all that fails you may just need a new MAF.

I want to see a sticker for the back window, the outline of a lifted wagon/sedan with the front tires on the hood of a civic hatch. and underneath it says "silly ricer". or maybe a side by side shot from the rear with a lifted wagon on the left and a lifted chevy/ford on the right, showing how the subaru has more diff clearance just a few ideas, if they do get made I want to buy them. but I don't have any spare cash right now..

Its all done and holy crap is it awesome!! Its too dark to get pictures right now, but tomorrow I will have pics for you guys, I know how you love them! It sits a good 3" taller than my car. I'm kinda jealous

Rear part of the lift is on, and also replaced the rear shoes and the muffler while I was at it. the front part of the lift and trimming will happen tomorrow, pics soon after:headbang:

no oil or coolant.

THE LIFT KIT HAS ARRIVED!!!!!!! I will probably get part of it installed tomorrow, and the rest on Monday. So close!

after the lift and bigger tires its going to be a chore to get it stuck, have only got mine stuck once and that was because the jeep in front of me got stuck and i had to back into a snow bank.

yeah those tires are pretty awesome, for $800 they should be:headbang: the rims are off a chevy or toyota I think. the only thing I know about them is they are 15x6 and I got them off craigslist for $75 lol I may have to get a set of those tires for my car. you know, so it doesn't get jealous.:-p