AKghandi

No problem! I hope you fix it:)

adjust your clutch first. its likely your issue. then look under the dash at where the cable mounts to the pedal box, it likes to bend. if that doesnt work come back and we'll see if we can help some more. since its been 48k miles since the last clutch adjustment, do that first. a clutch will last 100k on these if used correctly.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CA00/91125/N0320.oap?******=Search_N0320_-1_3158&pt=N0320&ppt=C0326 Same here, I love it. I only have one because, well my passenger can just hold their drink. I did notice if you drink red bull it has to be the 20.oz or it will just spill everywhere. but when it does spill it just goes right on the floor. also when you have your window open in the snow it will slowly fill with water..

didn't actually break anything:o it just bottomed out pretty hard. and yeah its weird how my brakes just started acting normal. i think when i went up the hill and used my clutch and brakes together it must have worked a bubble loose. my hill holder is actually working like it should now also. I got my new tie rod end from rock auto now i can get an alignment

it might be the turbo. just use some vise grips with some padding and clamp the water in line and see if it goes away/ have you re-torqued the heads yet?

yeah I will miss the snow, so I'm going to enjoy it as much as possible while I'm here. also after I did that my brakes self bled I guess, they feel like normal brakes now, no more squishy.

if its an ea81 solid lifters then it would be an adjustment. but if its an ea82 then its probably going to need the oil pump resealed. its called the TOD or tick of death, its not fatal as the name applies. and pretty easy to fix in most cases. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=113431 its a long read but worth it. at the bottom of the page theres a "similar thread" section which should yield all the info you should need. edit:darn beat me to it.

taking my subaru through the delicious fresh powder! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HzmKt43T_A&feature=youtu.be

I replaced all 3 locks, the ignition, even the glove box lock. so I can open and start my car with the same key! And as a bonus that key happens to be an original subaru black plastic topped key. I also ordered a new tie rod end for the passenger side, so when that gets here I can do an alignment. If I'm happy when its done I'll leave it but if not, then I'll take it to a shop.

both diffs need to be the same ratio. if you put a 3.9 d/r in and leave the 3.7 rear diff it will bind up and the back will try to go faster than the front. all bad.

it will bolt up. all ea81 have the exact same front end. try the search function. or goole with "ultimate subaru" after it.

you can mount some switches in the pop out pannel to the top left of where the switches are now, you might need some different switches. but it looks really clean when your done.

theres been a few people who have lowered thier subarus, are we talking about a EA81 car? or EA82? if its ea81 you need some lowering springs for the front and you need to "reclock" the torsen bar in the back. which means taking off the rear suspension and pulling it apart and putting it back together one or 2 teeth lower from where it was. I have never done this but once you start looking at it it will make sense. if its an ea82 you just need lowering springs. honda coil over sleeves off ebay work good and they're cheap as hell.

3.7>3.9 lower number higher ratio. Just an fyi

you need the pulley from the loyale dual belt set up like this one http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ULT1/15575/01468.oap?year=1987&make=Subaru&model=GL-10&vi=1268681&******=Search_01468_1268681_3158&pt=01468&ppt=C0330 then you just switch the pulley, theres a spacer that goes behind the dual pulley, you need to file it down to 11mm, IIRC then just bolt it to the maxima alternator. and put it on.

that thing should be pretty sweet! with the motor out already i would say ej it.

usually when you post something and no one responds it means they want you to search it. the search function is kinda weird so what do is use google and put ultimate subaru after it like "transmission bearing replacement, ultimate subaru" if i knew anything about the inner workings of the transmission i would help but im just as in the dark as you.

i can't wait to put it in, but finding a non A/C alternator bracket has proven a little more challenging than i previously thought. i might have to buy a parts car, oh well i got some other things to replace anyways.

the maxima alt is actually the easier of the two. you just need the twin belt pulley and the spacer that goes behind it. you file the spacer down a little and then mount it up. the wires and mount work perfect. the GM one is cheaper. but you may not be able to go back to stock. i think its a 70's buick riviera? i cant remember.. that being said i just picked up a HUGE alt to put in my car, 140 amps, i need the non A/C alt brackets but it will mount up after that. I'm planning on a winch, a bunch of lights and a full stereo so i need the power lol here it is next to a 12.oz redbull

I got the biggest alternator I could possibly fit in my car:banana: This is a Leece neville 140 amp SEMI TRUCK alternator. its aready been fitted in a subaru once before. I need to get a non A/C ALT bracket then I can put it in. BIG thanks to ALASKA STYLE, or Bodey as some of you may know him. http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/specs.php?item_detail_id=802&item=8LHA2070VB&product=ALTERNATOR I also got a complete set of keys and locks so I can open any door instead of just the drivers door.

Wow I didn't expect them to clean up that well, And I still think thats the nicest GL in Alaska, and its only getting better!

did you clean those rims or paint them? either way they look awesome!

yep dual range has the lever, if its a push button they use the same vacuum system and wiring so it would be pretty straight forward. i think the trans tunnel on the autos is a little smaller so you might need to clearance it with a hammer. you'll need the trans, the flywheel and flywheel bolts,(manual are longer) maybe the tranny crossmember and the driveshaft. I'm not sure about the starter but thats easy to figure out. and ofcourse the interior peices, which should mount right up. if you do get the car get new clutch you will thank yourself later. Get us some pictures, so we can help you better.

i hate to correct you, but the 2wd struts are the same as the 4wd, the piston is a little longer but the spring perch is at the same height. i bought kyb 2wd rear struts hoping for a little extra lift but when i put it next to my 4x4 strut it was the same height. the lift on 2wd struts comes from the springs,because the piston is longer. 2wd front struts are shorter than 4wd struts. by about 2 inches.

Even more good news!!, I cant say too much right now, but I can say money is no issue.. so I have alot of things planned, I'm going to build my brother a wheeler. and get a spare subaru for a DD so I can build my GL-10 some more. I'm thinking an xt or a lego. maybe an imp not sure what I'm going to do first but I can tell you this is going to be an eventful month. any recommendations? no I'm not going to ej it yet, but when i do its going to be a ej22t. or a franken motor. I'm thinking about building subarus and selling them, I bet a 4" lift would nearly double the value of a old GL up here. would be good to keep the cash flowing, $500for the car,$600 for the lift,$300 for tires, ask $2250? and I could start my own Alaskan Subaru off road club...I dont think I could build them fast enough.. hmmm much thinking to do. I love it when karma cashes in. I'M SOOOO EXCITED!!!