AKghandi

Nah this is some serious surgery shoe polish only works on snorkus's lol

I replaced the carrier bearing in the "swamp donkey" the drIve shaft was ridding on nothin but the steel loop.. runs and drives suprisingly well now. Now if only it werent so ugly...

Thanks for that it sounds right up my alley.. Althought i dont plan on putting more than 1000watts in this car. Mainly because the car cant make enough power...yet.. When i upgrade the amp and sub ill run new wires but i figure if a head unit can pull 200watts from stock wires then my exstension cord will work for now Yeah i could use both wires for positive but having one positive one negitive and one rem all wrapped together running to the amp is very very nice i can pull the whole thing out of the car without unhooking it. Ive done my fair share of stereo builds So i know the ropes pretty well..still trying to figure out ohms a little better but im a quick learner. Im going to deck this car out with amps and speakers while still keeping the stock headunit im going to mount 6x9s in the little hatches on either side then mount 2 8"or10" subs in the rear gate im going to reinforce and sound deaden it because if i dont its going to rattle like crazy..im thinking marine speakers.. I know its going to get submerged lol..

Also check the egr valve if its sticking it will stall out. When it is running you can push the egr up and the idle will lower. If you press harder the car will die. The egr solenoid keeps the egr from getting vaccum at idle. Maybe unhook the vac line to the egr.

SUBARU FTW ...they should have used a leaf blower...

The white is posi and the black is neg the green is rem so i have one nice neat wire to run to the amp. Good idea on the spray deadining.. Will come in handy when i mount 2 8" subs in the gate.

And im adding bigger tires here in a few weeks.. I dont even wanna know how slow its going to be. Im going to remove the clutch fan and the a/c and hope i can gain a few hp to ballance it out. Its getting a snorkel eventually also. So cold air intake? Lol

True but thats about another second added to the 0-60 Mines a 3at.i dont have alot of go to begin with Ir it were a ej'd or ea82t then it wouldnt be an issue.

My gl10 had the cats knocked out and it ran fine. No codes While your at it replace the 02 sensor, Or atleast Pull it out so it doesnt get damaged while you knock out the cats. Also try to keep peices from going into the mufler. They will not come back out. Ask me how i know lol.. Have fun! They dont make it easy to do lol.

Dam gremlins! Lol Hmm Well now i need to think up something else... The car sat for 16? Years Maybe a bad fuel line? I worked on a ford focus that had a pin hole in one of the fuel lines And it was hard to start would stall and had a studder. Have you read the plugs yet? Take em out and see if she's running rich or lean Or it may be running perfect I think the solution will come by process of elimination.

and its heavy! dynamating your whole trunk area would be about 40-50 lbs just for the deadining. add a 20lb amp and 30lb sub thats an extra 100lbs. which in our underpowered cars would make a difference. which is why i did what i did. light weight, no excess power draw, no obvious modifications, sounds great, and it doesn't make my car sound like its being microwaved...

Hmmm maybe the pressure between the turbo and the head is enough to push the egr open.the egr solenoid he has now has a vent where as the original one did not. So its not pushing the egr closed until enough boost to bypass the vent is acheived. this problem isnt under hard acceleration its under mild acceleration/ cruising He said it runs perfect under hard acceleration This problem seems to be under 3k rpm. Theres also a slight rattle from the exhaust, like a tiny unicorn jumping around in the cat. Right after he bought it the nipple on the egr solenoid broke off So he replaced it with one off an 85 brat. Shortly after that this problem appeared Which leads me to think thats the issue. Atleast thats how most my problems get fixed. I retrace my steps. Now im just thinking out logical reasoning for my theory.. Ive been wracking my brain for a few months trying to solve this..

I used to like big bumping stereos but after a couple years of 2 12's and 1500wAtt amp im kinda going deaf now.. So i limit myself. Plus i dont have to worry about some one hearing it and following me home.

Thanks naru! What if an egr were working improperly and it was to introduce excess amounts of exhaust gas for a few minutes i would think the computer would read that As a lean condition If not that then its sensing knock and pulling the timing. I rode in this car before and before this problem it ran perfectly. Like a brand new car. So its got to be one simple thing causing all this frustration..

thanks! it really surprised me with the sound quality. aside from the slight rattle of the almost blown subwoofer:rolleyes:

i stand corrected! i havent really worked on 85-86's mostly 87+ but wait then how do people crank up the boost on ea82t's? and not hit over boost when they still have the maf in place?. i could've sworn i read somewhere these were lean detected boost cut. but i'm probably wrong.. wouldnt be the first time:D

so first i soldered in an rca set i got off of a "Dual" stereo. it wasnt that hard to do and it actually worked! then i ran power wires which was very easy(yes i used an extension cord. sue me:D) i ran it under the plastic trim around the doors to the back seat heres where they come out, they go under the seat to the rear cargo area. the green wire is the rem wire, i pulled it through a slit in the case of the extension cord so i have one nice neat wire to run to the amp.the stock headunit has an rem out its a blue connector on a white w/black wire its only a 200watt amp so the wires should be plenty big enough. eventually when money allows ill upgrade everything except the stereo. the sub is on its last legs so that's probably first. it almost sounds better than the full pioneer system, 1000 watt amp and type r 10, i had in my previous soob.. and it was free, with 1/6th the amount of power draw! plus no ones going to steal my stock stereo and cheap sub.

it works!!!!!! i now have bass!!!

did you go to his ea82 yard? i know he had an 87 turbo there and my 87 turbo had the same solenoid as yours. unless he did crush all the ea82t's he had. when i was there there were 6 all in a row. true the egr doesn't effect performance but it does affect the air fuel ratio by leaning it out to help the mpg's while cruising and these over boost cut when a lean condition is sensed by the ecm im pretty sure your experiencing over-boost fuel cut. it used to happen to me in an old dodge daytona i had but it only did it because the wastegate was ruptured. and the turbo on those is pretty big compared to the subaru one so it only over boosted when i was at WOT. it would go dead for a second then come back to life. but it would do that like 4 times in a row so it was pretty violent. but if it were to happen while not in boost it would be exactly the symptoms you describe just kinda goes dead for a second then comes back, randomly the 02 sensor could also be suspect,it may be giving incorrect readings.

i swear its that EGR solenoid. i bet they work differently between n/a and turbo. the turbo one doesn't have a vent on it. but the n/a one does, this leads me to think the boost is supposed to push the EGR closed and it cant do that when its venting. where as the n/a only sees vacuum and if it didn't vent the EGR would stay open. i think the turbo one is just to keep the EGR from getting vacuum when it shouldn't, like at idle. but it does open around 1/4 throttle while cruising and not in boost to help fuel efficiency. hence the mid rpm studder maybe cap off the vent? might work, and probably couldn't hurt and you do have an extra lol compare the turbo and the n/a i bet with a little ingenuity you could make it work exactly the same. or ditch the egr completely. no more emissions:banana:. i really hope this helps i hate to see such a clean car have such a flaw:( that and i know its bugging the crap out of you! this explains and backs my theory. and its a damn good read! EGR Systems-how it works

I hate correct you but the dodge 2.2/2.5 are all mopar, except for the turbos some were mitsubishi some were garret They did however use mitsubishi 2.6 and 3.0 engines in some models. Early 90s shadows used the 3.0 in place of the turbo. And the convertable lebaron was stanard with the 2.6.(which is a god awful motor)Then the 3.0 in 90 Thats why i like 80s cars, not too much, not too little, and some randomness thrown in to keep it interesting. Srry my brain is full of random trivia. But back on the subject theres a dyno here in town...i wonder what kinda power my 3at makes. I bet they would do it for free just for shiggles! maybe my next week day off ill go down there and ask them "hey how much would i have to pay you to put my stock 91 subaru wagon on the dyno?" i wouldnt be surprised if they fall out of their chairs laughing.

i put it in the line going to the waste gate. from the solenoid. i could have removed it but it didn't seem necessary and actually it could go all the way to 12 psi but that would be the limit of the stock fuel system.(in perfect working order) so i stayed at 10. these dont have a set overboost cut. its determined by a lean condition. so if you go too far you will know.

it was a $20 ebay special. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MANUAL-BOOST-CONTROLLER-300zx-3000GT-VR4-EVO-RX7-WRX-T-/140744105193?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c5009ce9&vxp=mtr no intercooler. i was driving around 30-50 below zero during the winter. so it wasnt as necessary, but installing one is pretty easy. the power level increases alot the colder it gets. i aslo cut the exhaust off right before the 2nd cat.(i put it back to sell it) the p/o had gutted the down pipe cat already. drifting a wagon at 60mph is what dreams are made of. i lol'd when an sti tried to out drift me.. and he has 300+ hp and a rear ebrake i still won. (in the snow anyways) i really miss that car.

here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 that shoud give you all the answers you need. the green one is the test connector, i think. the others are one wire connectors.white and black i beilive. ill get a pic of mine here in a while, mine a 91 so my connectors are in the engine bay but the connectors are the same.

i had my brothers 87 gl spfi d/r up to 104 but it had alot of "natural weight reduction" lol i dont think my 3at could do that with 10 miles downhill. ewwww. 3speed auto shadow:horse: but those 2.2/2.5 motors are one of my favorites. as easy if not easier to work on than a soob my baby: 89 shadow es 2.5 turbo 5 speed, was built by the p/o then parked for 15 years. was pushing around 230+hp. kept up with sti's ..but it was too fast. so i sold it... i regret it every day.(i know where it is though.) i cant believe i sold it 2 years ago..feels like a life time. this is how i found her, in a yard with 150 other cars and trucks.. this guy had a thing for building and hoarding cars. this was 1 of 3 lots.... http://www.turbododge.com/forums/members/37306-ghandiface-albums573-my-projects-picture3474-072600-1501-00-my-89-shadow.jpg( no thats not a box on the roof, its some kinda crazy camper on that old dodge pick up) srry bout the non soob content. but i had to share..