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Everything posted by AKghandi
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i like those. but im going for cheap/easy. for now, maybe when moneys easier to come by ill get a bigger lift. i dont plan on doing even half the stuff you take your cars through, maybe some mild trails. so im not too worried about the structure. its mostly for looks and winter time. its my DD so i can't go too extreme. but i plan on making some kind of "idiot driver rescue vehicle". you would be amazed at how many people i pull out of the ditches in the winter:lol:
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Well thats what i would do if i had a welder! :-p But i dont so im going to have to get creative..still not sure how im going to bend the rear straps..im a little lacking in the tool/workspace department. I can see torches and visegrips...
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Very informative, thanks guys!
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i think it has something to do with drivetrain drag.. One cam thats gear driven or 2cams with 2belts. With the same size bore and stroke i would think there would be a noticable difference. And the 3at is no race car. Especially with tires bigger than 185/75/13 lol.. If i were to race my brothers hatchie with my wag.. Id lose, just saying..
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I think i can get some 1" wide 1/4" steel and make 2"drops for the rear. although if you were so inclined to make some rear lifts i would make it worth your time.
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plus i doubt i could even make mine all the same.. a sawzall and a old crappy drill dont make precise cuts or holes..and if my wheels were at different angles i think i would go crazy till i fixed it.
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i got an offer of a cheap lift kit so i think i'll go that route. saves time and it shouldn't cost too much more. i should be lifted pretty soon. Thanks One Eye!
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yeah thats actually the place im going to go to, but i doubt they sell to the public also.
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yeah the only problem there is i have no idea where to go for steel tubing. ive been to lowes and homedepot neither of them have it..here in anchorage theres not alot of places that sell stuff like that. im going to go to a few more places tomorrow or find something that will work like a 4wheeler ramp or an old trailer. something 2x2 and atleast 1/8 thick
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Aha! How about this? its 2x2 and just about 1/8th thick, the thickness concerns me but im not going to do any serious offroading..i think it came from a stop sign ...not sure how it got there though.
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Timing belt and ignition timing questions
AKghandi replied to Nomad_Brad's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Well with the white and green connectors unplugged the check eng light is telling you something. Pull the codes and see what they say theres a write up about it in the usrm under engine electrical its on the second page. The green connector is for stopping the timing from advancing so it can be set makesure you mark the 20* mark on the flywheel with some white out to make it more visible. -
maybe the gas cap isnt venting?
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Well seeing as how i havent had an 86gl10turbo sedan in 3 years it was confusig people so i pmed zap and he changed it for me
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just for reference what size/thickness should i get? i have $50 im going to put twards a lift.
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yeah thats that i was thinking. thanks GD guess ill scrap it for a few bucks.
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so i picked this bumper off a dodge intrepid. i plan on cutting it in half so i get 2" blocks but im not sure its going to be strong enough as it is aluminum. what do you guys think?
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I just have a key ring with copies of all subaru keys ive ever gotten I can open and start almost any older subie with them. If that fails i get my lock picks out and do it that way. Like stated earlyier its harder to lock your self out than it is to break in. Lucky no one thinks our cars are valuble.
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i believe you can also flip the rear strut tops to lower it.