AKghandi

The speedo works and the trip computer dOes give readings. Which I'm pretty sure are wrong I highly doubt my average sped is 3mph. Considering the immense weight of my right foot.

I just went and rechecked the switches and they are working properly( had my voltmeter on the wrong setting ) So that's not it. I wonder if the vacuum pump would freeze up if it was not used for a long time. I'll pull it off tomorrow and check it. If the pump isn't the issue it could be the control unit. Wheres it at?

The switches on the steering wheel give 12v for just a second then it drops off(I should have mentioned that before) so I'm going to fix them when I get the chance. As for the slip ring I already pulled it apart and cleaned and dio greased it It's working perfectly. I had the steering wheel off a while ago to replace the ignition so it just pops off. THe switch on the steering wheel is simple I've had it apart already. It looks like generic on off micro buttons And yes the trans is from a carbed 87 wagon so that plug shouldn't Matter then.

So I checked the buttons on the steering wheel they didn't put 12v but they were making connection I might replace the buttons inside with some from RadioShack . The switches on the pedals are working so I guess that just leaves the vacuum system if someone knows how the vac lines are routed that would be helpful I'm going to pull the vac pump and put 12v to I and see if it works later. In other news I hooked up the trans so my 4wd light and reverse light works There was another plug that I couldn't find a home for and it only has 6v going to it. Any idea what that might be?

My temp sensor went bad after I disconnected it once. Replace it and see what happens its like a 12 dollar part so I'd say go for it If throwing parts at it isn't your thing you can always test it Take it out of the car and put it in a pot of water on the stove.the resistance should decrease as the temp goes up

Also check your rear diffs some gl10s came with limeted slip diffs And the 3.90vs the 3.70 on the turbos is a hell of a difference. Especially in low. I've been known to chirp all 4 tires.. Have fun!

If you do get it put a remote mount turbo on it! I think it would be an Sti killer..

It's my brothers dd ATM but I'll see if I can trade him for a day so I can show it to you. It's nothing to jump up and down about but it should make a good wheeler. and my brothers been talkin about getting another loyale so who knows it might be for sale soon And I'd rather it go some one who will love it and drive it and weld random bits of metal on to it, then some stupid person who wants it to thrash it

Well I give you a call on Friday to see what your doin Also there's another set of 14 In steel pugs on Craigslist for $180 with 175/75/r14 studs I emailed him about a trade but if you want another set feel free to swipe Em

ZOMBIFIED .. Had to bring it back from the dead. Lol Any updates? Sorry I haven't come and given you a hand been kinda preoccupied latly If your working on it this weekend I may have to come over.. I'll bring my hatchie so your brat looks even better lol

Sweets thanks Gloyale I'll be sure to go check all that The buttons on the steering wheel are pretty worn and from what I can tell the car was well cared for until the guy I got it from got it. He did all kinds of stupid things I've been working to correct Like he switched the PB 5spd with a d/r 5spd and he never hooked any of the wires up which is what I'm thinking killed my cruise. Any and all fsm wiring diagrams for 87 would be great then I can sort out my cruise reverse light 4wd light and my rear defrost. As for the vacuum pump would I hear it when I turn on the car or is it only when I hit set?

Yeah take it to tundrabrats house he will help you get it sorted out. I didn't reilize you were in AK also..I may have to come over and provide another head to bounce ideas off of

I'd start with the axle nuts make sure they are tight (150ftlbs) Then. CHeck the front control arms Make sure all nuts/bolts are tight up there Do the same for the rear Jack it up and rotate the wheels and shake them to check the wheel bearings Jump up and down on the bumpers to check the struts My wagon had this same problem it was a loose axle nut on my rear wheel.. And a bad wheel bearing in the front.(I've since replaced all 4 wheel bearings.) Any weird noises? Hummin grinding thunks or clunks?

I love your wagon the only thing I can think of to make it better is if it were mine..

Yeah I know that feeling..

My hatchie does this when you turn it off.. I'm curious as to the cure for this..

In the 6months I've owned my car I've never put regular in it Which when your delivering pizzas seems counterintuitive lol..especially when my right foot Weighs twelve metric tons. And i Still manage around 20mpg in town. I love my Subaru ...even though it's ugly And old..it still scare the crap out of me sometimes.. I swear it has a mind of its own..

Steering wheel. With the on off button right under the rear defrost(also inop.) The lights come on on the dash but I hear nothing when I hit set. I know the trany is nOt correct for the car and is not wired up The speedo works but no reverse lights or 4wd light. Does it need the reverse light hooked up to work? And I also have a trip computer Which doesn't seem to be accurate at all.

All of that needs to go into my wagon.. I would drift it competitively.. Every day. Any clues as to what the ratio is on that massive rear diff? I smell air locker options...

I run premium in my wag..but it's a turbo so I have to. If I had the cash id put 116 race gas in it. Then turn up the boost.

Ea81 or ea82? Ea82s can be done in the car Ea81s can't. 82 uses head bolts 81 uses head studs And I wouldn't put HG sealer in there unless its the CRC with nano tech Other wise you will clog something.

Nothing? Really.. C'mon I know someone has the answers floating around they're head

so ive searched and searched but didnt get the info i need. first where does the cc unit get the vss signal? tach signal? and what other inputs does it need to operate? wheres the fuse? vacuum lines? if someone could explain the system to me i can figure out the problem (i know how cruise works i just need to know where the components are located, what they do and if they are needed for operation ) pictures would be nice but not necessary

i would have moved on already.. but here theres wags like yours cheap cheap, this ones kinda spendy but it felt appropriate http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/2823494174.html the resemblance is creepy...

Well ive been reading over this and I have an idea, the Maf could be shorting out the ecu the Maf has a system that heats the wires up to clean them it could be stuck on causing the computer to fry.(I don't remember exactly what it's called it's in my chiltons book tho) and there is a relay for it iirc My 87 turbo had all kinds of problems like yours mine never got that bad but it still made my head hurt for a few weeks, it was the Maf ...and this all started after I sprayed the Maf out... And I bet the over charging doesn't help.. Just out of curiosity have you tried it with the alt unhooked? It should run without the Main wire hooked up Just a few ideas, it pains me to see a Subaru in a coma like that.