AKghandi

Maybe the plug isnt grounding properly? Just a guess but from what you've posted it's the only thing I can think of..

Oh I have ur cars are amazing. I've got somewhat of the same plan fOr mine.. 2"lift 27s winch snorkel And roof rack all in factory lake blue paint I want it to look like it came from the factory that way.

I like to think that the more you put into a car the more you will get out of it so I'd say go for it if you have the cash I'm probably the only person that enjoys throwing parts at my car lol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbtN7KF57YY I did it again. I tried to make one showing me swapping it but my iPod kept screwing up anyways hope this helps On a side note I no longer have a miss my car stArts instantly and what little soot I had comig out the exhaust is gone And I picked up a few more hp.. She pulls like a mule now

Well you'll seethe corrosion on the contacts they should be shiny copper. If you go to replace it make sure that you swap the plug wires one at a time so you don't confuse them

.. It's the thing your spark plug wires are hooked to the rotor is inside the cap there's a screw that holds it on. It's on the distributor

Your welcome man. yeah it's not that hard you may want to have a friend there to pull or push on things for you just to make it go faster And as for the carb issues have you checked your cap and rotor? The rotor may be loose or the contact on the cap could be bad and a weak spark would cause the poor running and black soot out of your tail pipe and I would think that problem would get worse in high altitude with the thinner air I could be wrong tho. Not the first time lol

Ok it's up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNNUeZz2uLQ I forgot to mention that to get the cv back into the knuckle push I in as far as you can and with the hub off thread the nut onto the axle and use 2 claw hammers or flatheads to pry it through then when it's through enough take the nut off put the hub on and do it again till you can put the cone washer and the flat washer on with the hub then tighten it till the cv is seated in the knuckle

Yeah I've gOt a few things to do but after that I'll make your video

I've seen videos of turbo justy's and they look amazing and i bet the turbo off a chevy sprint turbo would work with little mods. if i had the chance id jump on another justy just to have something small and simple to mess with with out disabling my dd..

finally tracked down my boost leak, set my timing, and got her a nice tune up. shes 100% again!!!

ah the c/v axle ive done about 6 so far ive got it down to about 20 mins.. if you havent done it already i could make a video for you.. im not going to take out my axle but ill point you to the important things

i like them but i dont think anyone else does.. guess when a hatchie is the same thing but heavier duty why get a justy?.. if i had the chance i would get another justy for my delivery job...but i havent seen a justy in months.

Check your intake pipe from the Maf to the turbo. When you turn right the engine may be flexing enough to cause a leak it would make the car stall. I had this problem on my gl10

Sweet project! Also you turnsignals not working is because you don't have a hazard switch hooked up( from what I could see anyway) And it may be the same thing for the dash lights because there's no dimmer switch

I had to do that on mine too. Mine were really corroded but in the end it was a leaking intake pipe then It was a bad Maf now it has some kind of leak in the exhaust.. Kinda nice how my car likes to start new problems right after the first ones get fixed.

MOAR!!!!! Lol

Tis a nice wagon not 3000 nice but nice none the less Are these really worth that down in the states? There's wagons like that here in Alaska for 1800 at most....

Sounds like what my gl10 was doing with a bad Maf sensor... Have you tested it yet? A voltmeter will keep a lot of money in your pocket.. Ask me how I know lol

I had this same issue on my gl10 I replaced the seal and it is still leaking(I bought 3 different seals before I finally got the right one) so I'm very curious as to how this turns out

I've got the second one in that list tucked into the map pocket on my drivers door then screwed into place ..works very well and it will hold a 44oz soda . But if you forget it's there when you close the door you get 44oz or soda on the floor(better than the dash or center console) I'm not sure how it would work on a Car with crank windows as mine are power

I did this on my 87gl10 it was very straight forward and very worth it. The 3.90 ratio with low is ungodly I mean full on drifting into angles that seem impossible to save but you can with more throttle. Plus the push button likes to wear out or get frozen in winter. I went with the turbo 3at axles in the front and I just swapped the rear diff with the axles on it Also make sure you don't tear the rear diff bushings otherwise in 4000 miles you will have a clunk every time you hit the gas like I do. And last but not least check you existing rear diff to see if it's LSD if it is keep it. Mine was LSD but I didn't grab it befor the parts car was taken away.

Gotta say you are really puttin in some work its looking good cant wait to do the same to my hatchie. Have you thought about putting an LSD in the front while you have it apart? I have no idea how but I've heard it's possible...

I just replaced both front axles in my 84 hatchie with remans about 400miles ago and they are both clicking now. I should have bought empi axles.

I've considered that and I was planning on running a larger pulley because I want to run low boost just to keep it reliable As for the s/c I haven't decided which one I'm going to use it will probably be smaller than that paticular one