AKghandi

all the d/r ive used will switch from hi to lo no problem with the clutch in and driving in a straight line. i used to do it in my rx to get better launchs

just about any subaru key works on these with a wiggle or 2 or you can buy "jiggle keys"which are lock picks for cars theyre like $40 online and with my set theres not a car ive ever had that i couldnt pick.(i like these better for my hide-a-key because if they find it they wont know what it is or how to use it.) sorry your car was violated, was the seat position changed? or the mirrors? is there any scratches or metal shavings around the locks? if not you may just be going crazy:grin:

How bout leaving the stock ebrake and then adding another handle next to it for a hydro lock up for the rear? You might loose that little compartment but oh well. Then you have the best of both worlds..

Awww.. That's so sad I'm sorry for your loss Any chance your going to build another beast? And I had an idea about the tree rear window problem, diamond plate.

With the I/m going away In the next month they are passing anything

We need info on the car. If its fuel injected I'd check the intake pipe if it's leaking it will do that. I'm not to expirienced with the carb'd motors but GD or someone should be able to shed some light on the problem

The bigger rad will make it run cooler but I shouldn't matter if the thermo is in place and working

Exactly.

Also check the controls under the dash there's 2 gears and they like to skip a few teeth and you won't get heat. It should blow a lot of air out the defrost. Also the switch is easily fixed,take the switch out put it with the knob down and carefully pop the case open there's 2 ball bearings inside ones small ones very small the larger one goes around the edge to let it rotate easier I honestly have no idea where the tiny ball goes. Now when it's apart you'll see a connection board and 3spring loaded connectors they may be corroded or melted into the rotating assy' I just pulled them out cleaned the holes out abit got new springs from a couple bic lighters and put it all back together It works. But oddly 2 and 4 are the same.1 and 3 are normal though And I really hope you don't have a head gasket issue. Hopefully it's just missing the thermo for some idiotic reason Good luck!

Sounds like the same ghost problem ive got. Check the coolant temp sensor and the Maf and while your at it check the fuel pressure regulator My car 87gl10 does the exact same thing with the Maf unhooked what that means I have no idea.

Im not sure if the loyales 90+ came with the d/r but they are easy to swap The turbos a comPlicated beast although mine gave me 6k hard boosted miles before one of the sensors went out and you can make some power with one If you've got an extra grand go for the ej swap it's pretty straight forward from what I've read Also as far as the autos are concerned the 3eat is ok I guess but it's pretty sluggish on a n/a motor but it does give true 4x4 Now the 4eat which came in the legacies is awd (could have only one tire spinning) with the center diff mod it becomes 4x4 (equal power to the front And back) Personally I'd go with an ea82 wagon 2 inch lift and some 27s One of our members has a nice example of this his username is; the dude abides

How many people do you wanna haul with it? If its just for some camping stuff find a hatchie (80?-87 2 door hatchback with 4 speed dual range)usually you can find them pretty cheap. If you want to haul some people get a 86+wagon I'd go with the turbo if that's possible. The extra power helps turn bigger tires or do the ej swap. I don't know a lot about legacies but I do know if you get one go for the 4at auto there's a mod that locks the center diff and the torque converter helps with low speeds. Or you can put in a ea82 5 speed dual range. short story long; what ever you get, it will do what ever you need it to.

Soo much want. Look up rust in the wind if you haven't already, its like what your doing but with a brat and I think a 13b with a 350z rear end

I used to deliver pizzas in my gl10turbo, all day boosting my rump roast off drifting all that good stuff in 4x4 and I still managed 23mpg. I love turbos.

Do you have the ducting from the blower to the heater box connected? If so is the blower working? Then look under the drivers side dash at the actuators for the heater box have someone move the controls and see what happens. There is a set of cogs that move with the controls sometimes they like to skip a few teeth and you won't get heat anymore.(this is from an ea82 not sure about the ea81 I'll have to look at my hatchie, but I bet it's the same setup)

You can drill out the steering lock pin if you can't find the key. But most of the time just about any Subaru key will work. No wd-40? Olive oil works too it's just a Pain to get into the lock. As for checking the t belts, take the cap of the disty jump the starter if the rotor spins at least the drivers side is intact I have seen a few of these run On only the drivers side belt.

Ej20t good power,cheaper,easier,lighter and no blasphemy. Although a wheelie wagon would be amazing.

Moral of the story; my son/daughter is getting something slow for their first car. Something really slow. Anybody know of any good, reliable, capable in snow, extremely slow vehicles from the mid to late 80's? hahaha. Well I know a 92geo tracker with the auto will just barely do 65 wih a tail wind and a along time it also will not get stuck. Mine had the LSD I tried a lot and couldn't get t stuck. another good choice would be something like a musty justy or if you really wanna get slow find a Isuzu pup with the diseal(I can't remember how to spell it)or get a ea81cram some 27s and enjoy the ride

I've got an 84 hatchie With 146k, original everything. It doesn't bog down at all, granted its lighter that a wagon but I don't think it would make that big of a difference. I also shift at 6k (when I need to move!) its not as fast as my gl-10 but it gets to 80 pretty quick, even uphill. Mods:custom exhaust.( nothin from the header-back lol)

What about putting a wrx turbo in it? Might as well make that lil ea81t a Honda stomper. Just to wipe the grin off those stupid ricers faces. I wish I could find a ea81t.

i know alot of people on here bash the ea82s but a cheap loyale would serve you well and theres still parts around you just have to look and you can get a 2 inch lift for them for around $120 i know what its like to be broke and working on a car especially, in the cold. it sucks.

Is the flat washer in place? If it isn't it won't torque correctly the cone washer wears out and eventually the hub will start to strip.

I think your Maf might be out of whack I think that's what's wrong with mine.

The timing is ok and the Maf is getting power with the Maf inplace but disconnected it idles perfectly you can't even feel it. But I get absolutely no boost as soon as it hits boost it bogs down( makes perfect sense) so I'm going to go see if I can get one from the Subaru grave yard. And just for clarity it also runs with the Maf connected but not hooked up to the intake and when I blow into the Maf the car stalls. So far the only code I've got is 23 which is the Maf. But the cOde is only present with the Maf disconnected. And an ej20t would be amazing.

Check the hub. They like to strip out.