AKghandi

Hmmm. So that's not your problem. Mine does that with the Maf hooked up.

i usually just unhook the battery for a few minutes. also check the wires to the cts and the connector mine the wires were frayed and the plug in was corroded. as soon as it was fixed the CEL went away immediately also does it run better with the maf unhooked?.

the cts is right next to the turbo its a 19mm with a 2 prong connector sticking right out of the coolant passage

hmm.. well if you get it figured out let me know, im goin crazy with this dam thing.

you know i think it might be the hg. not it the traditional oil in the water kinda way but in the one cylinder leaking into another.. because when it back fires the turbo light comes on for a moment. . and when i pulled one of the spark plugs on the passenger side it wouldnt even start...which means problems because ive seen these run with just the drivers side timing belt.

i know the feeling man. mines doing the exact same thing.... did you use crc maf cleaner? because thats what i used right before this all started.. and i also have the 20 dollar ebay mbc.

Yeah i thought about that too but it's getting too much air which exPlains the bad idle and the lack of power under boost and since this all started while I was in boost. I'm going to be getting a pretty big tax return so if it isn't fixed by then I'm going to buy New car. something simpler like a ea81 or a legacy. In other news I think my turbo is going down the drain due to the metal shaving paste in the turbo outlet. So that's always fun to deal with.

bought the voltmeter. all sensors and circuts working propperly. the CEL is off again. had some help today and i think the problem is intake manifold gasket.

87 gl-10 ea82t you have the exact same problem i do. does it backfire? and bog down?. revs like crap and barely drivable? is crazy how you have the exact same problem. you should look at my thread.. help oh subaru gurus in dire need of assistance. ive narrowed it down to the intake gasket but im still not sure thats the problem maybe we can help each other out mine started after i turned the boost up a lil bit which is why im leaning tward intake gasket

well i bought a new coolant temp sensor yesterday i put it in and the cel was off. the car wasn't running any differently tho. then i changed the alternator back to the one the car had originally and now the cel is on again with the same code. i hate problems like this because once i figure it out im going to kick myself for not figuring it out sooner. its something simple. its one part or something causing this. i just gotta figure it out. But on a better note ill have some cash today and a garage to work in(thank god!) so hopefully ill get it figured out by the end of the day. yeah ive been meaning to buy a voltmeter but i kept getting sidetrack with other projects. like my perfectly running 84 hatchie with a bad clutch cable..both cars broke at the same time. and no one in alaska seems to have the cable.

Yeah that's the kind I have it's got 2 LEDs with a + next to one and a - next to the other And it says 3.5-12 v ac/dc on the side.

I wish I had 10 bucks. But I wont have any cash till tomorrow, so i get to just look at things. But as soon as I can I will definitely do that. Here in a few minutes ill go out and check for anything obvious.. maybe a wire cracked when i was moving things around. I do have a test light so i can check to see if its getting power

well.. i don't have any kind of troubleshooting tools so i just unhooked the return line to make sure it was at least letting fuel out(quite alot of it) and i also checked the return to make sure it wasn't clogged. havent checked the vacuum line to it yet. yeah its definitely running rich. really rich which makes me think it might be the coolant temp sensor system, because that's the only code its showing. ill head out in a few and check the wires to see if they're crossed or grounding somewhere and while im out there i might as well clean the plugs and back blow the fuel filter. i should have a little money tomorrow so if all goes well i can go out to the subie grave yard and snag all the sensors off one of our fallen friends

Ok I got it home I would really like some more input though as this is still a very serious problem.

Drove it to drop my brother off at work it's now on the side of the road. M**********r and the walk in the snow was fun too. So now I'm thinking it might be the exhaust something is getting very hot and making a smell I don't recognize it's not the cats because well I don't have any.ill unbolt it when I get the car home see if that makes a difference but I doubt it will.. I think this car just doesn't want to run anymore.

Update! I put the alternator back to the way it was and now I can almost drive it. It spools up and gives all the power she had before but it revs up like crap, like before. Although notably the backfires have stopped. And now the cel is on showing code 21 again which makes no sense because I just replaced the CTS and it wasn't showing that code before I swapped out the alternator... Ow. My brain hurts..

It's recommended to replace the head bolts but if they torque to spec they should be fine. Also does the car still run? If it got that hot I'd worry about cracked heads( make sure you loosen the head bolts slowly in a crisscross pattern to keep from warping/cracking them.) also I've seen cars that were overheated a couple times and the piston2 and4 had large holes in them( when I poured oil into the cylinder for a compression check and I just heard I drain right into the crankcase. That was on a dodge shadow tho. Sucked too because it had 65k miles and I bought it from the orig owner. If I had the money I woulda fixed it. Sorry to ramble like this but. I know what it's like to tackle a job like this and on a Subaru it's even harder. ( world easiest HG? Dodge 2.2/2.5) I love those motors lol:headbang:

I went out and started it this morning still has the same problem but it seems to be getting worse now with the turbo pipe connected it won't rev up at all. The ECM is flashing code 2 ( 2 short flashes) which I think means no codes I'll have to check my book tho.

Yeah it doesn't have any codes ( In u check mode) haven't tried the other modes. I'll check the injectors in a few minutes. I can't remember if this is correct but doesnt the. Alternator have something to do with the fuel pump? Bad voltage regulator giving it too much fuel maybe. This did all start after I replaced the alternator..

put it on the ground and loosen the control arm sway bar and end links then tighten it up on the ground if you tighten it when its in the air it will do something like that. it may also be necessary to remove the lift before the alignment. also pics would be very helpful or a video. eitherway

If you search for post apocalyptic head resurfacing techniques or something like that. I think it was GD who posted it, could help you save a few bucks with the resurfacing.

Yeah I get that a lot but my current gl-10 is an 87 lol sorry for any confusion And right before this all started I cleaned the Maf with crc Maf cleaner it was running perfect better than it has ever run then it just started doing this again And when I put the Maf back after cleaning it all the hot/cold wires were intact.

Yeah I need to buy a voltmeter so I can check the resistance I actually have several repair books and a fsm for my car. What do you mean " flap"? This is the first I've heard of this I know my car uses a hot wire and a cold wire system in the Maf if you have a picture of what your talking about it would make figuring it out much simpler if not I guess I'll just burry my head in a Haynes or chilton manual till I figure it out

Yep you got a headgasket problem. I recomend crc headgasket repair it's pretty amazing stuff and I've seen it last quite a while But if you want to fix it instead, pulling the motor is the way to go milesfox has quite a few videos on YouTube "the art of Subaru maintenance " that series will help you a lot. He doesn't do the headgaskets in the series but the motor pull procedures and the engine reseal is all very good info. You may also consider having the heads resurfaced. Just so you don't get it apart and back together just to have it leak again. Edit/ lol well looks like I was beaten to it .... Stupid itouch. Lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XffOhVxQ7zY