AKghandi

I'll make another video in a sec here to show you what I mean

Ok so I unplugged the Maf . It helped a lil bit then when I plugged it back in the Maf started clicking like crazy and the car died so it might be the Maf

Ok so the reg is working and the return isnt clogged got any other ideas?

Yeah the cold sux although when I smash my knuckles the blood freezes and doesn't make a mess so I guess there's a silver linning I went out and started to unhook the return line then smashed my knuckle. So I'm back inside for a few minutes dressing wounds lol I hope the regulators are the same I don't have 141.89 to spend. I barely have .99 to spend..

Yeah the air filter is new and yeah is seems to be getting to much fuel before when it was doing this it was because the intake boot was leaking ill have to heck the regulator it should be the same on an spfi correct? I'm at my witts end and I'm completely broke. The regulator makes sense tho. I'll check that when my hands thaw.

Made a video to explain the problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4b-SpA8k_Nk Any help will be greatly apriciated 87 gl-10 ea82t

Any updates on this beast?

My 87 gl10 is doing the exact same thing runs for 5 seconds and dies check your intake boot from the Maf to the turbo that was one problem I had. But now mines showing code 21 which is coolant temp sensor so maybe yours isn't bad enough to throw a code but still bad enough to mess with it.

Yeah I just can't stand the headlights dimming with the bass

I've got a type r 10 with a 1000 watt amp the problem isn't the tpe of the stereo or sub it's the stock Subaru charging system they just can't handle the draw from a large amp. So with that in mind you should look into the maxima alternator upgrade its pretty simple and there a few write ups about it

Lol sounds like it didn't wanna be sold it's kinda sad. Lol

does anyone still have the links for this page? edit:opps! thought they were broken, but they were just loading

in my expirience almost any loyale key will work with any loyale.. saved my butt a couple times.. put it in jiggle it up and down while putting a small amount of turning force on it...presto

got the new intake boot sealed up nice and tight cleaned my maf with some crc maf cleaner. runs perfectly now. except now the CEL is on code 21..oh well.. just another $56 to dump into it.. when i think about the amount of work ive done to this car im very proud of my self. when i think about the amount of money i've put into it it makes me sick... then i step on the gas spin all 4 up to 50 then i forget what i was thinking about. lol subaru for life!

Yeah the problem is I can't get it to store the code. Ive tried to pull the codes. But I get nothing so because it only comes on till i get into boost I think it's like rich condition or low oil pressure nothing I think Needs to fixed right away it goes away and stays away Let me know if you Need parts I've got em for low low ( free) prices just Pay shipping

get a voltometer and test the sensors according to a chiltons/haynes manual that should yield all the answers you need. on a side note these cars are alot smarter than you think so if it says theres a problem there.. theres a problem there. lol also i have the same problem..(random cel) but i havent been able to get it to stick so i can figure out what it is.. p.s i have a 91 spfi parts wagon if you need something i have it.

i would check the fuel pump/filter also. before you start buying parts that are that expensive.

I guess your just going to have to break the lil black nipple off so the door opens by hand like every Subaru ive ever seen/owned. But that probably isn't the way you wanna go.. I'm going to a Subaru graveyard in a lil while I'll see if i can find one that works and get some pics. You may. Have to rig it..

Yeah sounds like a bad c/v yes there is a way to separate the axle from the part bolted to the hub there's a few threads on that but its very bad for the trans to run rwd so I kindly recomend just replacing the cv.

just out of curriosity why are you removing the ea82t? and why swap away the five lug? just seems like steps backwards that thing could make a sweet rally cross car

buy a welder for the rust and also get 2 new front c/vs and 2 new rear shocks.(these cars always need those) change the oil and enjoy!

i figured my idle issues out. and it might help you as well. my intake boot was torn between the maf and the turbo causing my car to run rich and die id check that if your problem is irregular like mine was. jiggle the intake boot while its running and see what happens lol(assuming yours is FI)

its the speedo cable. it might have worked its way partially out or its probably just very worn and needs replacing. or the speedo assy. needs some lube... lol if you pull the gauge cluster out the problem should be easy to spot

i figured it out!!!! hahahahahahaha sooooo happy. the intake boot from the maf to the turbo was torn right at the turbo the car would shake leak air and die. also explains why it would behave normally under boost because it would suck the intake boot down onto the turbo. it also explains why my car has been running pig rich. now that thats solved how should i go about fixing it? i was thinking a new pipe from the turbo to the maf would do the trick(whats that little cylindrical thing sticking out of the intake for?) but since im already there i should look into cone filter and tmic. ive got a few extra dollars to spend any tips on that would be helpful as well.

its your ignition module. if its in the disty just get a new one. or a junk yard part