AKghandi

Any one ever put an atv plow on their subaru? i see deals like this http://anchorage.craigslist.org/snw/4598578128.html all the time and i figure with a small winch mounted to the bumper this might be a working snow plow rig. enough for most driveways anyway.

So i did some more work to the car today, I put the passenger door panel back together, then i put the new oil pressure sending unit in. the car will need a new oil pump gasket as it leaks quite a bit. I plan on a new oil pump gasket and a new timing component kit. but first i need to drain the gas tank and see where the filler neck is leaking from. it didnt leak a lot but it did leak. i suspect with fresh gas and proper timing the car should run perfect. I cant wait! in just the short drive to DMV and back even with the poor running i still fell in love with it. I really cant express how well this car drives. It does have a bit of an odd quirk.. occasionally it doesn't engage reverse. if i let the clutch out a little it will grind then engage. Not sure if its linkage or actually a trans problem.

i always run WIX as i used to work at oriellys also it was the best filter imho i cannot remember the number now though i dont think wix makes microguard, i think fram does.

it will make noise, but if you use a block of wood between the stub and the hammer it shouldnt make too much noise. the block of wood is a good idea just to keep the threads on the end of the stub from gettin ruined. you can take the whole rear drive train out and still drive it. rear axles rear diff and the rear half of the drive shaft can all be removed to make it 2wd and you will get better mileage. if you get a new stub and hub it wont take more than an hour to swap them just drive to a selcuded street and do it, or drive out into the woods.

Some have reported that running about 10-12 nets good results but i like to trust subaru with their numbers

The timing on the carbs cars is 8* yes 18 on a 350 is correct but the ea series engine is a shorter stroke and thus needs less timing.. if thats the way it worked, all cars would run the same timing. trust me follow the procedure for setting the timing and put it at 8* when i first got my car the timing was set at around 20* it would overheat and ping under heavy load. since then i have fixed it and not had an issue

Take good care of it and it will do the same for you. i intend to.its actually nice enough to EJ.

that would actually be a floor jack under the front of the cadillac

Well i got the car in my name and registered today. I'm starting to narrow down the running issues. first, it idles smooth but the engine shakes very rhythmically the idle doesnt change just a slight shake. My guess is cam timing is off. second when you drive it some what aggressively or up a hill or around a sharp corner it will bog down and pop and sputter. my guess since there isnt a gas cap is that the tank is full of water. Also this car drives better than any other subaru i have ever driven, hell it drives better than my girlfriends 08 focus

Yeah that will be a fun car. And a lot more practical

well the XT6 is a rare beast, if the body and interior are in good shape the drive train isnt that important.repairs are easy and cheap. its a breeze to work on these older subarus. but for the most part these cars dont need a whole lot they are really over built. factory parts can got 200k easy I recommend lifting it just for the Sh!ts and giggles. the 300zx is a good car but if it was NA then it really isnt that special. more specs on the XT6 is it auto or manual?

tire size wont matter for the axles. i use heavy duty zip ties, 175lb breaking ones from harbor freight. theres a bit of a technique to tightening them but they work great. i pull them tight as i can with my hands then i grab the tag as close to the locking mechanism as possible with a pair of needle nose pliers, and twist backward away from the locking claw, the tag points directly out the side of the needle nose. i twist till it clicks a few times and that usually does it. much better for trail use as the metal ones require a special tool.

It may also be a u joint starting to go

I'm running a 2" lift with 4runner struts and accord springs in the rear and stock in the front, no lift in the rear just struts and springs, i can believe how much of an improvement it made. i can have all my tools in the back and not bottom out even when i catch air off that speed hump that i didnt see.......

im pretty sure the timing on the carbed cars is 8* btdc. any more and it pings. and loses power. have you sprayed all the hoses with starter fluid or the likes to check for vacuum leaks?

most of the time the factory settings on the carb are ok. if you go about removing things then its worth messing with. if its really a problem weber it. there are alot of threads about this. its the best bang for buck with a carbed engine. more power and if tuned properly better mileage. the stubs should be the same on all ea82 4wd cars. unless i missed something. also dont forget the cone washer and flat washer, these are very important, hub, then cone washer then flat washer with the rounded side out then the nut, torque the bejezzus out of it, i usually stand on the breaker bar. i think the tq number is 150ftlb

the stub is not part of the rear cv axle, there is a roll pin that holds the cup to it. sometimes though if the axle has been there a while they will not want to separate. what i usually do is get the roll pin out, soak it with pb blaster tap it with a hammer a few times and then take it down the high way. dont worry it wont come off it will just loosen it

most of that is minor but as far as the door locks ar concerned you have to hold the handle up when you close the door for it to stay locked, its a import car thing. its actually easier to break into these cars than it is to lock your keys in the rear hub problem will have to be a junk yard find, you need the "stub shaft" it will be a challenge to get it out but a big hammer and a block of wood inbetween to keep it from gettin damged and you'll get it done here's the PN for the hub/ drum http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BBR0/9375DGS/01269.oap?year=1988&make=Subaru&model=GL&vi=1268524&ck=Search_brake+drums%21s%21rotors_1268524_3086&keyword=brake+drums%21s%21rotors

Oh yes it must have been garaged and washed often its amazing.. The bumper thats on it is pretty mangled. And while i like the flush indicators i also like the heft of the later bumpers. Plus its going to get a little winch mounted

So for a long time i have wanted a late 80's gl with a dual range. Its an 1989 gl! and its perfect. It has almost no rust!!!! i cant believe there is no rust. its a dual range SPFI with power everything and even has A/C that was retrofitted for R134a. I have many plans for it but first we make it run good, its running pretty rough, I'm sure its nothing major. not ticks or knocks just a little gutless and a rough idle. after i get it running good a year correct bumper is in order, somehow during its life someone put an 85/86 bumper on it. the front end needs a bit of work and there are a few dents that need adressed but over all i couldn't be happier! I'ts getting lifted.. how much I'm not sure yet. probably just 2" and some slightly bigger tires just to keep it more street-able unlike my 85 wagon which is super slow.

its funny, but the axle i replaced the cup wall between the stub and the cup came apart. i noticed something odd when i pulled the axle off and the stub had blue cv grease on it remans are hit or miss, thats why i keep the originals for spares, unfourunatly only one of mine was original subaru. and i still have it. also one of the 4 new axles i put in is kind of clunking.. not enough to worry about as its not very noticable but still mildly irritating,

The bumpers from the 87+ are hefty units the one on my 85 is like tinfoil

I lowered my crossmember and spaced out my radius rod with big washers. I also dont have a sway bar which saves time. All i do is take out the roll pin, loosen the axle nut, take out the 14mm control arm bolt and then i use a foot to push the wheel out i slip the cv off the trans then pull it out hub. Then re install. I had to do 3 in one day so ive gotten pretty good at it.

Will do. Last time i did it i was on the trail and i rammed the rear tire up a dune to get the front off the ground. I have never gotten so much sand in my crack.

ha ive gotten to the point of its only taking 10 mins to do the axle, i dont even take the tire off lol i will say though that i have never expirienced this problem.