friendly_jacek

There is no "central LSD" in subaru. If I understand subaru AWD correctly, the slip in AT AWD generated friction in the clutch pack and it is a wear item. The slip in MT generates heat and VC may overheat and fail. Either way, unneccessary slip is potentially detrimental. Minimal slip is probably harmless in MT but may shorten life of cluches in AT.

Do heavy duty if you tow. Very easy to install. If your winters are cold, find one with termostat control (B&M are popular brand). However, if your tranny survived 175000, then maybe you don't need a cooler after all. Another consideration is Synthetic ATF, as it is known to decrease temp a few degrees.

A have a 2000 legacy and use it hard, so I am worried about the above mentioned problem. However, I always suspected that people reporting these problems did not change ATF every 30000 (15000 severe service) as recommended. I personally am a believer in the 15000/30000 intervals, synthetic oils and transmission coolers. So far so good.

I just realized that 05 subarus with basic engine (2.5 H4) are now rated to tow 2700 lbs (with trailer brakes). H6 is obviously rated more (3000 lbs). A significant increase compared to 2000-04 with the same engine rated up to 2000lbs. While I always believed (and hm... tested) that subaru can tow 2500lbs with ease, not sure why the change. Was anything upgraded in the 2005 drivetrain? Thanks!

Ya, what is your code? I've heard from cobtuning that some non-OEM intakes can mess up MAF sensor reading by amplifying the intake pulse waves.

For example, when you put a stainless steel propeler in aluminium drive, aluminium will function as an anode and will be consumed (=corrosion in the outdrive). This is why I paint my stainless prop and make sure the sacrificial anodes (zink) are in good shape. If you cover your bolts with paint or antirust film it should limit the process (less current). Zink plated steel is even a better option as zink will be consumed before aluminium.

Thanks for the tip. I don't have this problem in my 00 but live in milder climate. Sounds like galvanic corrosion. I think water sits in those bolt holes and does its thing. Your stainless steel will not solve the problem. Anti-sieze is not a bad idea, another thing I did in mine is to cover and seal the screws with anti-rust spray, you know, the type boaters use (not the cheap WD40 solvent). Since I have my boat, I learned that you have to cover every metal surface (painted or not) with anty-rust to keep the salt water from eating metals. I extended this custom to cover every bolt and screw in engine bay and undercarrage in my cars.

The problem is, that in this location, there is no room for fancy tools, even if you remove air filter box and intake tubing. The cordless dremel cutter did wonders notching the head and the end of the screw, so I could use a short flat screwdriver (coupled to a mirror) to get that damned thing out. Well, I put a new OEM FPR and the pressure is 40 psi with vacuum connected, 50 psi with vacuum disconnected. It should be 30-34/41-46 psi according to a manual. It used to be 42/52 psi with the old one i thought it was defective. WTF? I followed a factory manual for testing the pressure. I don't think my gauge is defective. I just tested my Corolla and the pressure was in the range specified in Toyota (44-50 psi). Does anyone have any experience with fuel pressure in 2000+ 2.5L H4 subarus? Are the stock FPR defective or the factory specs incorrect?

Never heard of screw extractors. Well, live and learn... I exctracted one with metal saw and drill. I purchased a Dremel cutter to get the other one tomorrow. I shouln't complain, since I'm spending quality time and bonding with my subaru; wait, I was supposed to windsurf this weekend!

Thanks Blitz, I used CRC penetrating oil. Well, the screws are rounded now. This is exactly why I hate phillips screws. I will try cutting and drilling them now. Agggrrrrr....

For the type of driving you plan either will be fine. It boils down to your personal prefference (shifting). Manual offers better acceleration and better city MPG. Auto has potential for better MPG on Hwy. Limited slip diff is good for offroading or if you spend a lot of time on slippery surface. YMMV.

Please?

OK Ron, You made me walk to my car and look in the Warranty Booklet (don't you have your own?): Oxygen sensor: 3 years/36000 miles. Looks like you are out of luck.

Ron, O2 sensor is covered by the federal emission warranty. Why do you want to change it yourself?

My 2000 legacy has poor MPG and fuel pressure reads too high. I got a new pressure regulator from Jamie and thought it would be an easy DIY project. Darn, the pressure regulator is attached to the fuel rail by 2 phillips screw. Very tight screws and akward angle and every screwdriver I tried slips. I took the intake and air filter hausing off to get more access and no progress. I am soaking the screws in oil now. Is there a trick mechanics use with stubborn phillips screws? Thanks!!!!!!

First when I heard about this problem, I thought people were not doing maintenance ATF changes every 30000 miles. But it sounds like a recurrent problem. Furthermore, I recall a few people having that fixed under warranty. It may be an issue in these 99-00 AT cars. Does anyone know if any TSB was issued for AT for this problem? BTW, changing fluid to synthetic ATF, cleaning magnets, and replacing AT filter should not hurt when one has this problem.

Now, the moly in mobil 1 or other fine oils is in soluble form and not particles that can clog your filter as in some third party additives. As for proof, check VOA on Mobile 1 posted on any oil discussion group. I would be happy to post a link but setright would be offended by any mention of cough...BITOG...cough.

You don't have to add moly additives to get moly to your oil. Many modern oils come with moly as a part of friction modyfier package. Mobile 1 has modest amount of moly and redline sports a hudge dose of moly. Note that those oils are at the same time big slap offenders and making slap worse by many accounts, so moly is not an answer here.

It sounds more or less normal. Put it in 1st gear (4WD-like lock-up) and try again. There should be no delay.

Forget it, get an OBD2 interface and test it in situ with the engine running! Safer and less work involved.

Even easier, the relay for the pump is under the dash, it is a round thing. This is the method featured in SFM.

Well, subs are notorious for quirks with checking oil levels. I have been fooled more than once. But, if your technique is correct, something happened to the oil. I guess possibilities include pouring to wrong filler (probably not), internal leak in the engine (? is it possible), and most likely, your WRX friend stealing your expensive oil since his car consumes a lot of oil, as he showed you :-)

Looks ugly on pictures. I like the 3500 lbs towing package. Did SOA publish the EPA MPG figures on it?

I just wanted to add that ATF change is not ment to be done when the tranny malfunctions but rather every 30000 miles as a part of maitenance. It sound like the AT is dying.

Go ahead and reread my post. I said that 31 was a code for TPS. TPS is not covered by powetrain nor emission warranties. You on your own. The good news is it is v. easy to replace. Not cheap, though.