friendly_jacek

I am impressed by the sensitivity of your "butt dyno". The real dyno seems to support your observation. See this study on 0W40: http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

"1" gives you as much lockup as possible. I confirmed that. Some people say "2" is the same but I never tested that. As for MPG saving with FWD fuse, I saw no difference on a 1600 miles trip alternating FWD and AWD.

Another thing to consider is AT temperature. When it is too hot, it will have that shifting delay due to slippage of clutches. I had it in my mazda for several months before the tranny finally died of overheating. That was my first AT, so I was clueless. Now, I am extra carefull and I put in an synth ATF, AT cooler and AT temp gauge, especially since I do some towing from time to time. So far so good (55000 miles). You can buy a $40 radioshack IR thermometer that is fun to play with but also suitable to give you some ideas about how hot the tranny gets. I know that subarus have that AT temp warning light but I was not able to find out the exact temp that triggers the light. The light may well be too late warning. And finally, one more thought. There are several active threads about failing AT right now. How many of these folks changed fluid every 15000/30000 miles (severe/normal service) as the subaru manual requires?

Here you go: http://autorepair.about.com/library/recalls/bl-recalls-086b.htm It sound like only MY 2002 is affected.

I believe there was a recall on some fairly recent subarus with this same problem. MY 2000 was not affected so don't know specifics. Call a dealer or do a search.

Here is the problem, the ATF is supposed to be changes every 30000 miles in subarus. You problem is a classical example of AT failing after fluid change after long time of neglect. Either change regularly or not at all. Try adding additives increasing friction. Dirt in your old fluid served as this "friction modifier" proping worn clutches. Good luck!

Despite the water cooling, I would use quality synthetic oil with turbo. Heat and cheap dino oil is what kills turbo in no time.

Ha, Ha, ha... hilarious!

2000 should be solid, major problems were fixed by MY2000. You are right, there were 2 recalls for this MY and make sure they were done. The visits every 3000 miles could be for oil changes. You should be able to get the service history from subaru website. One thing: make sure the tires are identical with equal presures, do regular fluid changes and enjoy AWD!

BS If engine light was on, the code is stored in ECU memory. A good OBD2 interface software will show you "freeze" engine conditions when the faults occured. Probably problem with sensor connection, many sensors to check, get the code first.

Never mind, I found the answer on the NASIOC forum. Apparently, the amount of torque varies with the pressure of ATF at the clutch pack, so it is an "analog" system in my description and the clutch engagement is only partial with the normal 90/10 split driving and more complete with about 50/50 split ("1" gear); the setting is in between (60/40) when slipping is detected in "D". FWD fuse should relieve ATF pressure and disengage the clutch pack completely.

Are you sure the horror stories were about AT and not MT? I use mobile 1 and works just great. Did not notice a difference in quality of shifting or MPG, but after 1 change I have only 50/50 mix (you can call it a blend). Gives me a peace of mind when I tow. It is actually cost effective when I change synthetic every 30000 miles vs 15000 required for severe service.

You are correct, the stock diff drain plug has magnet but the engine oil does not. ? why not. I guess most metal particles will be cought in the filter but the finest will not. I thought about gluing a magnet to the oil drain plug but getting diff plug would be easier.

Yes, I remember that from the comercials, But cannot comprehend how that sophisticated transfer of power is ecomplished by the solenoid C and clutch pack in 4EAT. Again, is the clutch pack working in on/off mode with rapid cycling ("digital") or in "analog" mode with the amount of torque transfered is proportional to the ATF pressure at the clutch pack?

I understand that TCU controlls the clutch pack via solenoid C. I undenstand that 50/50 split meand closing the clutch pack but cannot understand how the 90/10 torque split is generated. The clutch is either open or closed. Would 10% torque mean closed only 10% of the time with rapid cycling? That would generate a lot wear and tear on the clutch. Or maybe partial closing of the clutch (90% open)? But that would potentially produce slipping and even more wear of the clutch pack. Anyone please?

Clarification needed: What did you mean by "fixed"? Was the tranny damaged by this filter or merely filter needed to be replaced? Thanks.

After some more reasearch there is an explanation: "The following is a quote from page 8 of the August 2003 Subaru Tech T.I.P.S. newsletter that SOA sends to all Subaru service departments ALL TURBO MODEL OIL FILTERS Be advised that the correct oil filter to use on 2003MY/2004MY turbo model vehicles is P/N 15208AA080. This includes the 2004 WRX STi. Naturally aspirated vehicles should use P/N 15208AA024/15208AC060. Using the wrong oil filter on a turbo model may put the filter too close to the turbo down pipe and possibly cause an unnecessary heating of the oil filter." But there is another problem: http://www.subaruforester.com/viewtopic.php?t=1919&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight= Apparently, some purolator filters can leak when exposed to high oil pressure in turbo engines with very thick oil in extreme cold. The high bypass valve opening pressure in the purolator filters obviously contributes to the problem. I understand that the new filters are not made by purolator anymore (made in Japan by Toyo Roki). It sounds like the old filter is fine for NA engine, at least in mild climate.

"the type of synchros Subaru used in their boxes..." Hallo! we are talking AT here. This comment and some above remarks on how not to overfill the tranny makes me believe this is a newbe thread. I hope you folks are aware that Subaru specifies 15000/30000 miles (severe/normal service) ATF change intervals and there must be a reason for it. Synthetic ATF is great but it is not a replacement for regular service. I only had hard shifting from my tranny when TPS failed but then I had both ECU and TCU codes.

Interesting, I confirmed through purolator that the newer filter has lower bypass valve setting, 14-18 PSI vs 20-25 PSI for the older. Of interest, WIX Filters baypass valve was 8-11 PSI for the same application. Lower is better? Hmm, maybe I should switch my 2000 legacy to this newer filter?

It is not his fault! It is your fault having the mediocre potenza RE910 tires on your car ;-) But seriously, the young man was trying the limits and found some, brobably hit brakes on a curve or so. BTW, if you have ABS, it is next to impossible to stop the car in snow, even worse on an ice patch.

You are a brave man/woman to buy a car on ebay, especially one prone to blow a HG. Re: your question, all I can tell is that the problem you describe is not common with this car. Good luck

If you want to save some money on the AT filter, see the discussion: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25096 I personally went to the WIX webside and confirmed the cross-reference. Never tried the WIX filter though.

??? Dude, get some sleep.

The AT filter is a black, screw on, engine oil-like filter outside and below the AT just forward to the ATF pan. Easy to do yourself but may be hard to unscrew, get a filter wrench or aid before starting. If the dealership is cluess about it, well they are cluess about newer subarus.

Bjwirth, Could you please elaborate? I recently purchased them based on good reviews and I consider them good performance tires but not truly "all seasons".