friendly_jacek

I don't know what kind of s***** scanner you tried. Why don't you fork 100 bucks for something that actually works on subarus like http://www.obddiagnostics.com/ $100 in nothing compared with the money dealers or mechanics will take away from you.

The magic works in all subaru's 4EAT as far as I know. It worked for my 00 legacy.

Is it hard to overheat an engine in Iceland?

I googled one for you. This is the magic procedure: "the flashing AT Oil Temp light indicates that the Transmission Control Module (TCM) has detected a problem and is trying to tell you about it. Here's the procedure for interrogating the TCM for the 2002 Impreza (all variants). It's one of those secret handshake procedures reminiscent of the pre-OBD ECU days. I swear I'm not making this up. 1) Warm up the engine 2) Turn the ignition switch OFF 3) Turn the ignition switch ON 4) Start the engine 5) Drive the vehicle at speeds greater than 12 MPH 6) Stop the vehicle 7) Depress the brake pedal and move the gear selector to "1" 8) Turn the ignition switch to OFF 9) Turn the ignition switch to ON 10) Move the gear selector to "2" 11) Move the gear selector to "1" 12) Move the gear selector to "2" 13) Move the gear selector to "3" 14) Move the gear selector to "D" Now examine the AT Oil Temp light again: If the light's blinking 4 times a second, then the problem is most likely a power supply or ground problem. If the light's blinking 2 times a second, then the TCM believes all is normal. If the light's on solid or not on at all, then there's a problem with the light's circuit. If the light's blinking with one or more long (1.2 sec) pulses, followed by one or more short (.2 sec) pulses followed by a 1.5 sec pause, then you're seeing a TCM diagnostic trouble code (DTC). The long pulses indicate "tens" and the short ones indicate "ones" so you add up the number of long pulses to get the left digit of the DTC and you add up the number of short pulses to get the right digit of the DTC. DTCs are two digits long (e.g. 23, 36, etc.). The end of the "ones" is indicated by a 1.5 second pause. Then, if that is the only DTC stored, it begins repeating that DTC with the "tens" again. However, there may be more than just one DTC stored, in which case they are spit out sequentially with 1.5 sec pauses between them, until the whole sequence repeats again. If you can actually retrieve a DTC from the hocus pocus above"

Yes, the code is probably stored in the memory, CEL off indicates that there is no detected fault at the present. Double check the ignition wires. It the wires/coil is OK, get the code, maybe O2 sensor?

This is a good discussion, I love it. Mental note: check radiator for cloggs next time I do coolant service.

Make sure that it is not a bad timing belt tensioner as they make same noise and can persist in warm engine. There is a TSB for that for newer cars. Mine (00) is not covered by the TSB but had that a lot before I diagnosed it myselt. The dealer was less than helpful.

This was a very interesting thread that didn't get a lot of attention: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55545&page=2 The last 2 posts are what want to bring again for discussion: "Quote: Originally Posted by broke subaru Thanks. I said I would keep everyone updated so here it is. I went to see my mechanic today, he had the left head off and it did have a blown gasket. He said when he took the timing belt off it was loose and he could spin the water pump by hand. He thinks the belt tensioner was not keeping the belt tight enough and the water pump was not being turned. This caused overheating and the gasket failed. He did not think the gasket was inherently bad. On a good note, he showed me the cylinders and they still had crosshatch hone marks. At 140,000 miles thats pretty impressive. I am starting to believe that, in my case, the problem was not the gasket but the engine cooling system. The original belt tensioner probably wore to point that the belt was not tight enough to consistenly turn the water pump. My first mechanic replaced the tensioner 4 times because each one he was sent did not have adequate tension. I am trying to locate an aftermaket/ high performance tensioner to prevent another overheating problem. I think you hit the nail here. We blame the HG problems on weak gaskets and open deck engine design, but the problem may also be the consequence of overheating not cought in time by the driver. It has been shown by the airplane engine experiments that that improper coolant change with air bubbles in the cooling system can overheat the engine and blow the gasket. Now, we have another scenario with bad belt tensioner. I can atest that the subaru tensioners are POS as I replaced one twice under warranty in 60000 miles! One interesting thing is that the bad tensioner sounds like engine knock or piston slap but with one salient difference, it comes from belt cover area. I would urge anyone with "piston slap" to invest in stethoscope."

Flashing AT temp= you have a TCU error code stored. Use the "secret handshake" procedure to get the code and go from there. Did you check the ignition wires and the connections?

Sounds likely, as the 97-99 DOHC blew HGs like crazy. The previous owner lost 2-3 grands and lost his/her love for subaru.

I think you hit the nail here. We blame the HG problems on weak gaskets and open deck engine design, but the problem may also be the consequence of overheating not cought in time by the driver. It has been shown by the airplane engine experiments that that improper coolant change with air bubbles in the cooling system can overheat the engine and blow the gasket. Now, we have another scenario with bad belt tensioner. I can atest that the subaru tensioners are POS as I replaced one twice under warranty in 60000 miles! One interesting thing is that the bad tensioner sounds like engine knock or piston slap but with one salient difference, it comes from belt cover area. I would urge anyone with "piston slap" to invest in stethoscope.

Interesting post, but should this be in the old generation subaru cars forum?

Well, the owners of Ford's SUVs with Firestone tires didn't have anything in the owner's manual about low tire pressure killing them. S*** happens.

Good infor. But will they last 100,000? It thought platinum is good for 60,000 iridium for 120,000 miles.

This is a very good price, you can only get it cheaper from online subary dealers ($60+S&H). Remeber, this is A/F ratio sensor, and not just generic O2 sensor, few aftermarket options.

Looks like it killed your VC

F***ing stupid mechanics! Replace the front O2 sensor. Read also this recent thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55507 I also have 2000 with low miles and replaced the sensor twice, first time at 20000 when it was recalled and second at 50000 miles because MPG sucked. Never got a code. Some people get codes for cat, misfires, etc. These are wideband sensors with working temp 700C, twice the regular sensor, and failing often. Did you do the 2001 recall?

Glad to help, don't forget to change ATF.

4 suggestions: Pitch that K&N filter Test/clean/replace MAF Test/replace front O2 sensor Test/replace temp sensor. I'm sure you will get more suggestions but I would start here.

I noticed that in my subaru once. It was a long time ago, the car was serviced by a shop and had no idea what brand of oil was used.

It would be interesting to know the chain of events: whether the stop leak plugged up the radiator first, the engine overheated, heads warped and tore the HG OR the HG blew in the first place and the car overheated.

So there WAS a code for the sensor! Just replace it. The ECU cannot run the engine in closed loop without the sensor. The sensor provides the "closure" of the feedback loop. It will run in open loop. Edit: As I mentioned before, there was a recall in 2001 for the O2 sensor. If this was not done by your GF, dealership should do it free.

Technically, diff fluids are not listed as required items to replace under standard service. I replaced mine at 40000 miles and was glad, there was some metal in them. Synthetic is way to go, peace of mind for 40-60000 miles.

I googled and found this on NASIC forum: "Date: 12/2002 Code: P0065 Air Assist Injector Solenoid Valve Malfunction 2000/Subaru/Impreza 2.5RS Mileage: 65,000 Fix for problem: Air Assist Injector Solenoid Valve was dirty, removed and cleaned it myself and reset ECU. Cost: $Free This code has not occured again since." I have no idea what air assist inj solenoid valve is. If your car is more that 3 years, you are outside the emission warranty.

the sensor that affects A/F ratio is the bank1/sensor1 and is located near where the 2 exhaust pipes from engine merge. The bank1/sensor2 just monitors the cat efficiency and is screwed in the the rear of the cat. Disconnect the sensor 1 and see if it changes anything.