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Everything posted by subeman90
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easy job! Absolutely make sure you get the right cruise computer for the right transmission in the car (auto trans CC computer will not work on a manual trans car) You need: -the cable and articulator that goes under the hood -the correct CC computer -the switch you put into the dash -the switch you put in the steering wheel (you do not need the whole wheel) -brake light switch (you will find there is a different plug already there for the different switch) -clutch switch (if stick shift) Notice I didn't say anything about wiring....'cause it is already there!!!!!! All parts are easy to find and the computer location is to the right of the glove box (legacy only impreza is under dash on driver side)(you have to remove the GB) and it is a little bit of a pain in the a$$ to get at but not too bad. All parts are interchangable with automatics/manuals EXCEPT the actual computer. You need to make sure all the parts come from the same generation of legacy (or impreza if that is what you are working on) Believe it or not this is super easy to do!!!!! if you know what you are doing it is an hour tops seriously since it is all "plug and play"
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This writeup is written by our member Snowman..please direct any questions to him. orig: post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71573 I think I may have finally figured out what was wrong with Sophia, my 92 Legacy. So, basically all winter, my fuel economy has sucked. Most of the time it has varied between 19 and 15 mpg running around town or on the highway, which is not what this car should be getting even in the winter. During the last six months, virtually everything that could possibly affect fuel economy has been changed: spark plugs, air filter, oxygen sensor, PCV valve, fuel filter, reset the ECM, and cleaned the MAF (the only thing I left alone was the plug wires, since they appear to be about a year old). None of those things made any difference. At that point, I even started checking around to see if I was leaking fuel out on the ground, which I wasn't. In addition to the fuel economy issues, about 2 out of 5 cold starts would take longer than normal, requiring about three seconds of cranking before the engine would fire. Finally, I realized that these two things might be connected, but what would cause such an issue? I then remembered that a previous EJ22 had developed an external fuel leak from one of the injector o-rings at 150,000 miles, after I had driven through some really cold weather. If the o-ring that seals the fuel passage externally could leak, then why couldn't the one on the bottom that seals the fuel passage from the intake manifold also leak, causing poor fuel economy and flooding the cylinders causing hard starting? Yesterday, I decided to pull the injectors and have a look. Lo and behold, all four bottom o-rings had a bunch of tiny cracks on the inner surface, which looked like enough to leak some fuel. A trip to Schmucks and $7 later, I had new o-rings on my injectors. The starting problem has not reappeared, and I took a short trip down to Girdwood to check out my fuel economy, which came out to be 24 mpg. Of course, that's only one trip, so I can't scientifically prove that any difference was made, but going from 16 to 24 mpg would probably indicate some difference. So, if your fuel economy sucks and you don't know why, pull your injectors out and look at the o-rings. Part 2: I spent a week trying to track down the o-rings by application when I had the external leak last year on my other car, with no luck. None of the parts stores even list them, and the dealer had to special order them but ended up getting the wrong ones. Finally, I just checked around in the o-ring assortment at one of the stores and found some that matched up. The smaller one can be exactly matched, but for the larger one, the closest you can get is one that is just a hair smaller on the inside diameter. It works just fine though...I ran it for several months with no problems. I'll check and see if I can find out the exact dimensions and post them in the USRM for reference. Another thing to mention is that I was concerned about using "standard" o-rings for fuel system stuff. As part of my search last year, I went to a major rubber products distributor and asked about it. They checked in their books and assured me that regular butyl-rubber o-rings are just fine for gasoline and that's probably what the stock ones are made of. The only difference between the butyl-rubber o-rings and the highest grade ones that they manufacture is the ability to withstand extreme high temperatures, but the range they are talking about is way higher than you would ever see in that application anyway. So yes, to answer your question, they are available at any parts store. You just have to take your injector and the old o-rings with you in order to find the right ones. They are also cheap that way. I think I paid less than $10 for enough to do all my injectors and some spares.
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i'm talking about the time between when you introduced him and when we got back from the autox. That truck was there for over 30 min before anyone even said whose it was. I didn't tolerate it with the idiot that parked his passat there either and I was already pi$$ed for the jerkoff that wanted to beat ben's, keith's, and myself a$$es for telling him this wasn't the parking lot. FWIW, I wasn't to thrilled about the porsche that was parked there either at one point. look I'm not trying to start anything but seriously...the parking lot was 20 yards away. And if this was directed at me (which I'm not sure if it was ment to be directly or not) tell Charlie that I am sorry..but don't forget to remind him who was the one that went with keith to look at all those parts he got from the stash. Like I said though.....sorry :-\
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easy job! Absolutely make sure you get the right cruise computer for the right transmission in the car (auto trans CC computer will not work on a manual trans car) You need: -the cable and articulator that goes under the hood -the correct CC computer -the switch you put into the dash -the switch you put in the steering wheel (you do not need the whole wheel) -brake light switch -clutch switch Notice I didn't say anything about wireing....'cause it is already there!!!!!! All parts are easy to find and the computer location is to the right of the glove box (you have to remove the GB) and ti is a little bit of a pain in the a$$ to get at but not too bad. All parts are interchangable with automatics/manuals EXCEPT the actual computer. You need to make sure all the parts come from the same generation of legacy...you are interested in 90-94 only. Believe it or not this is super easy to do!!!!! if you know what you are doing it is an hour tops seriously since it is all "plug and play"
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For those of you who remember it...
subeman90 replied to WJM's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
atleast the RX was an easy fix. -
For those of you who remember it...
subeman90 replied to WJM's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
whatever happened to the lowrider OBW you had? congrats on getting the old school up and running again... what did you find with the clutch? -
I know I know... I should get out there. I'm gonna have to bum a ride if I do...I once took a brand new OB through there and well lets just say I'm not taking a brand new car through there again. :-\ Well have to see when you guys go again...I have a business trip that is going to get dumped into my lap at the last minute in March so I have that to look forward to. (especially since I have no idea when they are going to dump it on me)
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Time to take a rest from USMB, maybe forever
subeman90 replied to Dr. RX's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Brutal honesty here: its YOUR attitude. I think you are smart and know your stuff about the subarus....your past cars prove it but seriously I think sometime you really come off like a "richard" if someone doesn't take your offering of knowledge as gold. I don't know you and most likely will never meet you but I'm just trying to tell you how you come off from this side of the screen. Good luck...seriously I mean that too! -
every auto dim I have ever removed was done by grabbing the base of it and turing it 90* (I think left) and it will slide right out of the windshield mount. ****remember if you change it to a standard mirror the spring that is in the windshield mount is slightly different******* If you don't quite understand what I am saying you will when you have the mirror out of the mount. trust me.
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Tell her to learn to drive stick.... Seriously though...I'm wondering if the slave for the clutch is going bad. There was a problem with the legacy's back in 02 (My old OB had a serious issue and got a new clutch for it once) There is a TSB on it and just b/c it was on the older cars doesn't mean that it wouldn't effect the newer ones too.
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look at that...she can't even plow in front of bucky.... :-\ At walmat there is this stuff called auto strip. I used it on ly xt6 wheels a long time ago to take the nasty paint off and they looked awesome. Great stuff to use and cheap too.