Loyale93v

Yesterday subaru stopped running. Sister went out to start it and it's a "crank, no start" Removed timing belt covers today. Discovered that left side belt(the inner timing belt) is off about two teeth. I rotated crankshaft pulley clock wise until right side cam belt was at twelve o'clock. At this point the left cam belt should be at the six o'clock position, correct? -Well, it isn't. I can not decide what the timing mark is on crankshaft sprocket. The left cam belt is also showing signs of wear; cracking and loose. There appears to be some fragments of the belt stuck to block and timing cover.(only way to describe is its a black FUZZY type of debris). The cam seals or the cambox-to-Cylinderhead gaskets are leaking pretty good...likely causing the belt failure and sticky , fuzzy belt debris. So I am off to parts store to get the belts and related components. Looks like I should just take earlier advice and replace everything. I am taking some pics with my phone. I will try to figure how to post them here so you guys can have a look and decide for yourselves.

It's not in bad shape persay...it could use some tires...maybe some suspension (struts & such) Yeah I agree with the post that instructs to R & R Timing belt and related components. I have done it once before. I think what is leaking oil is the "valve box" what I mean by that is,...valve cover gskt, then cam box(its what I call it) then head gskt. It could just be cam seals though...or both! how many hours is the whole job? cam seals and all? ...good break down of the job, by the way.

Greetings everyone. I am seriously considering retiring the 1993 Subaru Loyale 1.8L EA82. She still runs good. I just need to update. I am thinking of Parting it out and then it's off to the salvage yard. This is a EA82 1.8L Auto Trans(I want to say it's a 3 speed trans))with 137,595 on the clock. Timing Belt/Water Pump was done at 75,000(so it is due.) The engine needs to be re-sealed. It has a some oil seepage near cams. Anyways , it has been acting up lately....sputtering a little and seems to have power loss when going up hills or under load. I tried to check for DTC codes this morning by connecting first the green and then the white diagnostic connectors under hood near fuel filter. the red light on the ECU started to flash: 7-7-7 then with the other diag connector plugged in the light flashes 13 & 11. (I think that is what I read, long flashes for ten's and short flashes for one's...correct?) I don't know what all 7's could mean.....? Any how , If these codes are accurate & current I think it has something to do with the Crank Position Sensor. Which may explain some power loss. I was wondering if a worn Timing Belt(s) could cause these codes to be triggered in the ECU? If anyone has any feedback for me it will be greatly appreciated.

Has anyone succesfully removed, rebuilt then re-installed the A/C cluth compressor on a 1993 Loyale EA82? Everytime the I turn the A/C on, it starts to smoke. Meaning, it is burning the belt. I've removed & replaced the belt. I've re-tightened the belt, being 100% sure the tension is correct. I've even replaced the belt. So at this point, I am absolutely certain the issue lies within the A/C Compressor Assembly, specifically the Clutch components. I understand that this is a servicable part. But is it worth it? Or do people generally just replace the entire compressor as to avoid any agravation. And, if I opt to R & R the clutch, who will sell me a new one? Should a regular parts store carry the A/C Clutch and shims? Thank you, Gabe

did you ever get the info you were looking for? Is your A/C working properly yet? I only ask because I was thumbing through some old threads on A/C and came across yours. I may be able to get you some elec. diagrams if you still need them. {well I know I can get them, its just being able to scan, copy then email or send them out to you...my computer skills are lacking} Let me know and I will try.

[Original Poster] Thanks for the info guys. It's all good stuff. I am a little weary about using Propane/Butane in my nieces car...Leak + Spark = BOOM I dont know I'll need more info on that. Unless the amount of lubricating oil being carried by the gas charge is enough to differ the combustibility ...if that makes any sense , let me know. {it sure sounded good though}

Thank you every one for your info / input. I'll keep you all posted as to my diag and what comes of it. Thanks.

So ...safe to say that if I keep both valves in the closed position, I will not need to use the middle, yellow hose, and sill be able to get an accurate reading, correct?

My 93 Loyale 1.8L has an R-12 A/C system , I was hoping someone one this forum could tell me what the rule of thumb is for diagnosisng the high & low side pressures. I am a auto tech by trade, I have a set of R-12 guages(that i have never used, (they just were giving to me years ago and i have never needed them) any ways the A/C isn't cooling as I thiink it should so I am looking for some Diagnostic help . What are the correct pressures on a 70 degree Day? The guages have RED= High Side BLUE= Low Side YELLOW= Aux ? Recovery Tank? Re-Charge Tank? Can I use the guages with out the YELLOW Line? What do bubbles in the site Glass really mean? Thanks for any help guys-n-gals

Got a 93 Loyale completely stock. It has 111,500 miles on it. I have owned her since 56,000 miles. I've been reading alot of posts about putting a carb on. What are some of the real benifits to adding a carb to a stock set up. Oh btw, this is a 3-speed auto trans. Thanks for your time.

Just thought you should know.... I removed the A/C belt tensioner from the vehicle, then I disassembled the the pulley from the tensioner; at that point i was able to make out the numbers on the bearing. [6202v] I think it was an NSK bearing. Anyhow, I called a local company that I know by the name of "Eastern Bearing & Seal" - It took me a couple of tries to locate them because the have changed their name to "Eastern Industrial Automation, Inc." They were able to quite easily supply me with the proper bearing [ ********* 6202.223v]. I took it to work removed the snap ring from the old pulley, press out the old bearing, press in the new one with out incident. In fact, before pressed in the new bearing I cleaned up all the parts of the tensioner immaculately and primed & painted them with a can of Rustoleum flat black I had kicking around. everyone thought I was nuts; "why didn't you just buy a new tensioner?" or "why bother" . I tell you this, I don't feel "right" unless I do a job the best I possibly can. Thats just how I am built I suppose. My father always said, "Do your best" & "Look your best" those words ring in my ears to this day. he is a great man...but anyways....I am proud of my finished product. It came out looking better than new. And the bearing cost me $10.88 plus tax. A long way from the $147.00 plus shipping the Subaru dealership was asking! And I tell ya,After the saw the finished product, the same guys who were razzing me bout the tensioner are asking me for advice on their projects!

GD- the bearing im looking for...its a "Ball Bearing?" not a "Roller Bearing" (Torrington/Timkin?) I think Rollers are generally tappered, correct? I am hoping to find a bearing that is all ready fitted into the pulley. There is a place in my area called "Eastern Technical Automation" ..it is formally known as "Eastern Bearing & Seal" However, there aren't open on Saturdays...figures. Any way..as far as the CV-Axle is concerned , NAPA is going to "Warranty" the Bad Axle, because it is Faulty right out of the box. I started with a cheapo Remaned Axle($39.99) The are upgrading me to a "New" Axle (their more exspensive/higher quality line they tell me.)

haha! yeah I hear ya. And who is gonna sell me the bearing? a machine shop?

I will absolutely double check the cone washer.....thank you. Meanwhile.....I discovered two other issues. # 1)Lower ball joint, same side as replaced axle. 2) A/C Belt tensioner Pulley failure I called Subaru Parts Dept. on both. They quoted me $147.55 on tensioner & $38.99 for the Ball-Joint. Can you reccomend any after market places to obtain the A/C Belt tensioner? Thats alot of money for a small little pulley. and to top it off they said they found one in Tennesse and its four days away - its a discontinued part I guess. I tried all the local spots and they have no listing. Aswell, all the local guys have a ball joint listed but its the wrong one- I think. Doesn't the ball joint press fit into the control arm and attatch to the knuckle with a pinch bolt? The ones Napa/Carquest have show a stud/castle nut on one side and a pinch bolt set up on the other.