Loyale93v
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Posts posted by Loyale93v
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It's not in bad shape persay...it could use some tires...maybe some suspension (struts & such)
Yeah I agree with the post that instructs to R & R Timing belt and related components.
I have done it once before. I think what is leaking oil is the "valve box" what I mean by that is,...valve cover gskt, then cam box(its what I call it) then head gskt. It could just be cam seals though...or both!
how many hours is the whole job? cam seals and all?
...good break down of the job, by the way.
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Greetings everyone. I am seriously considering retiring the 1993 Subaru Loyale 1.8L EA82.
She still runs good. I just need to update.
I am thinking of Parting it out and then it's off to the salvage yard.
This is a EA82 1.8L Auto Trans(I want to say it's a 3 speed trans))with 137,595 on the clock.
Timing Belt/Water Pump was done at 75,000(so it is due.)
The engine needs to be re-sealed. It has a some oil seepage near cams.
Anyways , it has been acting up lately....sputtering a little and seems to have power loss when going up hills or under load.
I tried to check for DTC codes this morning by connecting first the green and then the white diagnostic connectors under hood near fuel filter.
the red light on the ECU started to flash: 7-7-7
then with the other diag connector plugged in the light flashes 13 & 11.
(I think that is what I read, long flashes for ten's and short flashes for one's...correct?)
I don't know what all 7's could mean.....?
Any how , If these codes are accurate & current I think it has something to do with the Crank Position Sensor.
Which may explain some power loss. I was wondering if a worn Timing Belt(s) could cause these codes to be triggered in the ECU?
If anyone has any feedback for me it will be greatly appreciated.
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Has anyone succesfully removed, rebuilt then re-installed the A/C cluth compressor on a 1993 Loyale EA82?
Everytime the I turn the A/C on, it starts to smoke. Meaning, it is burning the belt.
I've removed & replaced the belt.
I've re-tightened the belt, being 100% sure the tension is correct.
I've even replaced the belt.
So at this point, I am absolutely certain the issue lies within the A/C Compressor Assembly, specifically the Clutch components.
I understand that this is a servicable part. But is it worth it?
Or do people generally just replace the entire compressor as to avoid any agravation.
And, if I opt to R & R the clutch, who will sell me a new one? Should a regular parts store carry the A/C Clutch and shims?
Thank you,
Gabe
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It's a 4 pin low pressure switch and I can't locate any electrical info on it in Haynes or Chiltons. I did find and test the thermostat behind the glove compartment and it seems fine. I unplugged it. No change. I shorted the two leads and still no change. I found and grounded the black/red coil wire to the A/C relay and the clutch kicked in. I cannot locate the A/C amplifier module. Anyone know where that little bugger is? Thanks. Jim
did you ever get the info you were looking for? Is your A/C working properly yet?
I only ask because I was thumbing through some old threads on A/C and came across yours. I may be able to get you some elec. diagrams if you still need them.
{well I know I can get them, its just being able to scan, copy then email or send them out to you...my computer skills are lacking}
Let me know and I will try.
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[Original Poster]
Thanks for the info guys. It's all good stuff. I am a little weary about using Propane/Butane in my nieces car...Leak + Spark = BOOM
I dont know I'll need more info on that. Unless the amount of lubricating oil being carried by the gas charge is enough to differ the combustibility ...if that makes any sense , let me know. {it sure sounded good though}
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Thank you every one for your info / input. I'll keep you all posted as to my diag and what comes of it. Thanks.
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So ...safe to say that if I keep both valves in the closed position, I will not need to use the middle, yellow hose, and sill be able to get an accurate reading, correct?
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My 93 Loyale 1.8L has an R-12 A/C system , I was hoping someone one this forum could tell me what the rule of thumb is for diagnosisng the high & low side pressures. I am a auto tech by trade, I have a set of R-12 guages(that i have never used, (they just were giving to me years ago and i have never needed them) any ways the A/C isn't cooling as I thiink it should so I am looking for some Diagnostic help .
What are the correct pressures on a 70 degree Day?
The guages have RED= High Side
BLUE= Low Side
YELLOW= Aux ? Recovery Tank? Re-Charge Tank?
Can I use the guages with out the YELLOW Line?
What do bubbles in the site Glass really mean?
Thanks for any help guys-n-gals
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Got a 93 Loyale completely stock. It has 111,500 miles on it. I have owned her since 56,000 miles.
I've been reading alot of posts about putting a carb on.
What are some of the real benifits to adding a carb to a stock set up.
Oh btw, this is a 3-speed auto trans.
Thanks for your time.
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Why do you need one fitted in the pulley? You drive it out with a punch, and drive in a new one with a socket. You have access to a bench vise and a socket right?
It's a ball bearing (not a roller bearing) - though it doesn't really matter what it is - knock out the old one and take it to a bearing supplier - they can match the numbers on it. What city do you live in?
GD
Just thought you should know.... I removed the A/C belt tensioner from the vehicle, then I disassembled the the pulley from the tensioner; at that point i was able to make out the numbers on the bearing. [6202v] I think it was an NSK bearing. Anyhow, I called a local company that I know by the name of "Eastern Bearing & Seal" - It took me a couple of tries to locate them because the have changed their name to "Eastern Industrial Automation, Inc." They were able to quite easily supply me with the proper bearing [ ********* 6202.223v]. I took it to work removed the snap ring from the old pulley, press out the old bearing, press in the new one with out incident. In fact, before pressed in the new bearing I cleaned up all the parts of the tensioner immaculately and primed & painted them with a can of Rustoleum flat black I had kicking around. everyone thought I was nuts; "why didn't you just buy a new tensioner?" or "why bother" . I tell you this, I don't feel "right" unless I do a job the best I possibly can. Thats just how I am built I suppose. My father always said, "Do your best" & "Look your best" those words ring in my ears to this day. he is a great man...but anyways....I am proud of my finished product. It came out looking better than new. And the bearing cost me $10.88 plus tax. A long way from the $147.00 plus shipping the Subaru dealership was asking! And I tell ya,After the saw the finished product, the same guys who were razzing me bout the tensioner are asking me for advice on their projects!
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Any industrial bearing supply house. It's a 6000 series ball bearing. Probably a 6202 or 6203 - you can likely find it under an "alternator bearing" listing at NAPA. Bearing house would be higher quality and cheaper.
GD
GD-
the bearing im looking for...its a "Ball Bearing?" not a "Roller Bearing"
(Torrington/Timkin?) I think Rollers are generally tappered, correct? I am hoping to find a bearing that is all ready fitted into the pulley. There is a place in my area called "Eastern Technical Automation" ..it is formally known as "Eastern Bearing & Seal"
However, there aren't open on Saturdays...figures.
Any way..as far as the CV-Axle is concerned , NAPA is going to "Warranty" the Bad Axle, because it is Faulty right out of the box. I started with a cheapo Remaned Axle($39.99) The are upgrading me to a "New" Axle (their more exspensive/higher quality line they tell me.)
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Need to get out of that ASE parts-hanging-monkey mentality. Install a new bearing in the AC belt tensioner. Should be about $5.
GD
haha!
yeah I hear ya. And who is gonna sell me the bearing? a machine shop? -
Certainly could be the case. I just wanted to insure that we covered all the bases and the cone washer is very often overlooked as a source of noises, etc. When the castle nut continues to loosen no matter how many times you tighten it - that's usually a cone washer failure.
GD
I will absolutely double check the cone washer.....thank you.
Meanwhile.....I discovered two other issues. # 1)Lower ball joint, same side as replaced axle.
2) A/C Belt tensioner Pulley failure
I called Subaru Parts Dept. on both. They quoted me $147.55 on tensioner & $38.99 for the Ball-Joint.
Can you reccomend any after market places to obtain the A/C Belt tensioner? Thats alot of money for a small little pulley.
and to top it off they said they found one in Tennesse and its four days away - its a discontinued part I guess.
I tried all the local spots and they have no listing.
Aswell, all the local guys have a ball joint listed but its the wrong one- I think. Doesn't the ball joint press fit into the control arm and attatch to the knuckle with a pinch bolt?
The ones Napa/Carquest have show a stud/castle nut on one side and a pinch bolt set up on the other.
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GD-
I've read what you stated about the cone washer , As a matter of fact I do understand how imperitive it is that it is in good shape and with in tolerace- however, In this case, i am more apt to lean towards junk Napa part being the culprit.
Im at work now so I will have to get back to you later with more info....working on a volvo with a cracked manifold-
thanks TTYL
-Loyale93v
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maybe the fresh axle is putting more stress on the other axle i had this problem not even 3 days ago
Yeah maybe....not sure.. something is definately not right though.
I do know that that the lowe ball joint is in tuff shape. It needs replacement. But I dont think that should make a racheting sound during acceleration.....right?
BTW: can I buy just the Ball Joint? Or is it only purchased as an control arm-ball joint assembly?
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thanks man I got it out and the new one in in about an hour( a little over an hour actually, but not much) I got the new axle from my local NAPA parts Supplier - get the good stuff!
It seemed to fit ok.
During the job I noticed the lower ball joint is in rough shape. I am going to have to do that very soon. Its not safe the way it is. The only real trouble I had was fitting the new roll pin into the hole of the new axle.
THEN, I took her for a test drive....something isn't right ...
it makes a mild clicking sound under acceleration...? I know it was installed correctly. I mean ...hey..., I work on cars for a living! I'm an ASE Tech.[my only concern was needing a puller to remove axle- a tool I didn't want to buy for one job].
So it makes a mild clicking during steady acceleration. Strange. The new part, well the re-maned part fit OK. everything lined up Ok land I even used my torque wrench on every nut & bolt- Looksie...it was by the booksie..
any ideas lady's and gentleman's?
And oh.. I need a good place to buy the lower ball joint control arm.
And I need a spot for the accessory drive belt tensioner pulley.
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Ok...never done this before.
I am about to Remove & Replace the Axle Cv-Joint on my '93 Loyale EA82 FWD, Auto Trans.
I am reading The Mitchell/Alldata removal Instructions and "they" are instructing me to remove the Axle And Steering knuckle as a unit . Then they are instructing me to use a special tool/puller to separate the shaft from the knuckle? I have never had to do this on other vehicles. I have R & R'd many of Axle Shafts in my day, but never these older Subaru's.
It also estimates that it takes 1.5 hours to complete the entire job. Does this sound correct to you guys?
Need some guidance here fella's ......thanks
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The roll pin is a pin that holds the inner axle joint onto the stub projecting from the transmission. It stops the joint from sliding off, it doesn't take any torque.
Search for Ed Rach's excellent write-up here, and in the USMB repair manual. With this in hand, and a few tools, it shouldn't take more than half a day or so, the first time.
a 1/2 day!? oh boy!
I will look for Ed Rach's write up, where is the write up?...in the "HOW TO" section? Thank you very much -
Working on a 1993 Sub Loyale EA82, Auto-Trans. FWD-
Need to remove & replace Right front[passenger side] CV-Joint/Axle assembly.
How tough of a job is it? I have never done a Subaru Axle before.
I was reading on the ShopKey5/Mitchell website that there is a "roll-pin" that needs to be removed. They did not offer a diagram, what are they talking about? Does any body know?
Can someone estimate on how long the job should take?
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The link for the PDF no longer works... anybody have a better link or description how to do D-check?
I am also looking for the proper "D-Check" Proceedure.
Hopefully someone has the up dated link so we can access it.
I reaaly could use it. My 1992.5 EA82 is getting up there in mileage (117,588)...not to mention years....and could really use some proper servive.
Thank You In Advance.....
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I always use dealer parts. always.
Maybe I didn't tighten a clamp enough or something like that. I am positive that the intake gasket is not the issue.
I'll have to do as suggested an clean it up very well and run it until it start to trickle down again. i could also try using a coolant pressure tester; Apply 15 psi to the system and search for the leak.
This is the greatest web site for Subaru info/repair!
thanks to everyone!!
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I just finished Replacement of the Intake Manifold gaskets. The job went smoothly...went off with out a hitch.
Three days later, my sister tells me there is a coolant leak from underneath!
AARRGGHH!!
Man it one thing after another with this car! Good thing I only paid $900 two years ago(it had 57,000 miles on it at time of sale).
Any way I got under neath to investigate. At first glance, it looks as if it leaking out the Head gasket. But further looking revealed that it is running down the seem of the head gskt, from some where on top or mid way up.
Its on the drivers side, front, Possibly from something up in there or maybe it is the head.
What else is up there guys...any one know from memory?
Are He4ad gskt common? Can the gskt be replaced with engine still in vehicle?
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REMOVED & REPLACED - Intake manifold gaskets.
Took about 90 minutes. Runs smooth now. All though it still has a small skip at idle.
Its been about 30k since I last replaced the Plugs & Wires.
I checked the Ignition timing with a timing light; It reads 20 degrees BTDC.
Maybe this engine was just born to skip a little?
ju no say pa?
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I'll look up the torque spec's on ALLDATA.
Correct, not a Turbo.
Drain the coolant, check. -Is there a bleeding procedure to eliminate air pockets when re-filling the Antifreeze/Coolant? I know the newer Subaru's have a bleeder valve on top of the Radiator.
I picked up a set of gaskets from my local Dealer today. $9 or $10.00 I believe it was.
It should run a lot smoother once the new gasket is in place.
Thanks.
Retired: Subaru Loyale ...maybe
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted · Edited by Loyale93v
Yesterday subaru stopped running. Sister went out to start it and it's a "crank, no start"
Removed timing belt covers today. Discovered that left side belt(the inner timing belt) is off about two teeth. I rotated crankshaft pulley clock wise until right side cam belt was at twelve o'clock. At this point the left cam belt should be at the six o'clock position, correct? -Well, it isn't.
I can not decide what the timing mark is on crankshaft sprocket.
The left cam belt is also showing signs of wear; cracking and loose.
There appears to be some fragments of the belt stuck to block and timing cover.(only way to describe is its a black FUZZY type of debris). The cam seals or the cambox-to-Cylinderhead gaskets are leaking pretty good...likely causing the belt failure and sticky , fuzzy belt debris.
So I am off to parts store to get the belts and related components.
Looks like I should just take earlier advice and replace everything.
I am taking some pics with my phone. I will try to figure how to post them here so you guys can have a look and decide for yourselves.