Loyale93v

Does any one have the FSM specification for the ignition coil on my 93 SPFI f4-1781cc 1.8L Loyale? I am looking for the out put volts and anything else I should know about it. NOTE: please do not post "PDF" format as my PC is not able to read it for the time being. Thank You. Loyale93v

93 spfi 1.8L Loyale. trying to retrieve current and historical DTC's. Under my hood drivers side up near the fire wall, there are a few connecters. A pair of green ones, A small pair white-ish ones, and a black one, and a yellow one. What is the "right" way to exicute the reading of past and present DTC's? What I did was removed the panel from underneath the steering column to expose the ECU. I then connected the two green connecters, and the ECU flash the little red light seven times. It repeated the seven flashes infinately. I then connected the small white-ish connecters, the MIL on dash blinked continuosly. The Ignition key was in the "RUN" position during both tests.(Key On Engine Off) Am I doing this correctly?And is there more that I can do?

I went to the suggested site but for some reason my computer does not want to cooperate with me today! I can't seem to be able to read the pdf file! I have ADOBE READER. I don't get what is going on with it!? computers is definately not my thing. I know this much about the D-CHECK...I connect the two green connecters under the hood and having previously removed the panel under the steering column, turn the key to the run position with out cranking the engine. The little red light flashes seven (7) times then a pause then flashes seven (7) more times, and just does that pattern continuosly. then I unplugged the green connecters and plugged in the small white-ish ones. The chech engine light on the dash flashes on and off continuosly. i think the ecu light is also flashing aswell. so what do we make of this ?does it mean anything? Is there something more that I can do to run the "D-check"?

i have not tested the coil as of yet. only I have replaced coil to cap wire, rotor, cap, plug wires and spark plugs. D-check using a DVOM? do you know the FSM spec's ?

interesting. throttle bore vacuum. mmmmmmmmm. how did I miss that. it does say check for clog or leaking fitting at manifold doesn't it. Well, back to the drawing board..... some one had installed an after market CAT on the exhaust system. I never hear good things about after market CAT's it could be restricted. I do hear a "blub, blub......blub.....blub,blub,blub" from the tail pipe. Miss fire? restricted cat?

yes, I agree. The fuel pressure is right on. BUT, what of the vac at the FPR's port? I did crack the throttle(from under the hood). So the issue is the vacuum at the fpr's source hose. engine vac @ idle from that port should be more than -19.69 inHg. (step #6 in my earlier post) although i thought i read also from an earlier post that there is no vac from that port at idle. So who is right? at any rate ...let's suppose that there is supossed to be -19.69 inHg of vac from the fpr port, the fact that ther isn't says that there is a vac leak or clogged port or what else? what else could cause this? would a clogged CAT cause a manifold vac issue? I would think yes, but I am not sure. I test Vacuum at other ports and got a strong -18 +. There is a very deffinate lack of acceration/bogging out/ little, no or slow response from the accerator pedal while driving.

yes, it does use an external vac to verify manifold vac. but i am not sure what you are getting at. Please elaborate.

I have the print out right in front of me. it is titled: 1993 Subaru Loyale Sedan(4 door) 2WD F4-1781cc 1.8L SOHC>Powertrain Management>Fuel Delivery and AIr Induction>>Fuel Pressure>Testing and Inspection and goes on to say: NOTE: To obtain an accurate fuel pressure reading the engine must be running. Basic fuel pump operation can be verified in a no start condition by observing gauge reading while cranking engine. Fuel pressure should be approximately 21 psi (147kPa). RELEASE FUEL PRESSURE 1. Remove fuel pump fuse 2. start engine and run it until it stalls 3. after engine stalls,crank it for five (5) more seconds 4. turn key to "OFF" 5. reinstall fuel pump fuse CHECK FUEL PRESSURE 1. Disconnect fuel filter outlet hose 2. Connect a fuel pressure guage between fuel filter outlet and hose. 3. Start engine and idle. 4. Disconnect vacuum hose from pressure regulator 5. MOMENTARILY pinch return hose close and observe gauge reading (this checksfuel pump max. output pressure). If not within specification, check all delivery linesand if not pinched or restricted, replaced fuel pump. MAXIMUM FUEL PUMP PRESSURE Approx. 36-50 psi (245-343 kPa) 6. Check engine vacuum reading at pressure reulator source hose. If not within specification, inspect for vacuum leak and/or clogged fitting at manifold. ENGINEVACUUM AT IDLE More than -19.69 inHg (-66.7 kPa) 7. Reconnect hose and observe guage reading at idle. CONTROLLED FUEL PRESSURE AT IDLE 20 - 24 psi (137-167 kPa) 8. Disconnect pressure regulator vacuum hose. Fuel pressure should raise. 9. Apply more than -20.5 inHg vacuum to pressureregulator. Fuel pressure should be lower than observed in step 7. 10. If pressure reading was incorrect or didnot vary and all previous tests were OK, replace pressure regulator. And that folks is what I went by when checking out the FP spec. I know...I know it does not clarify between MPFI and SPFI in writing. However, if I could scan the photos that came along with it you would see a picture of a TBI with one injector. (single point fuel injection)

the FP is only a secondary symptom. the lack of vacuum being applied to the regulator is the issue. Alldata fuel pressure spec for the 93 loyale sedan 2WD F4-1781cc 1.8L SOHC : max pressure(vacuum applied) 36-50psi controlled at idle 20-24 psi

MAF is clean, in fact it looks practically brand new. the blocked or rerstricted CAT is a good idea. It sounds like it is missing when I listen closely to the sounds from the tail pipe: "blub, blub,.........blub........blub,blub, blub" the fuel pressure spec are from "alldata" and yes 21psi is dead on, however when throttle is applied, vac should go to the FPR and raise the FP to the spec of a min 35 and max 50 psi. the regulator is functioning only, there is no vacuum during acceleration. why not? I dunno. that my friend is the question of the day.

well at A.S.E. school I attend last night (my instructor worked for Subaru from 1980 - 1995) we were having trouble pin pointing the cause, however, it was suggested to me that if I were to disconnect a vac line from some where else not vital, and plug it into the bottom of the fuel reg it may help things out a bit. Of course some other function may me lost in the process, but at least the drivability concern is temporaly delt with until I can close in on the actual cause.

well the answer to MY problem is this...I drive the 93 Loyale EA82; after a FULL tune up the car still is not performing properly. first test... fuel pressure test: spec is 21 - 25 psi controled @ idle. Max is 35 - 50psi so I set up the fuel psi tester and the psi @ idle is 21. (on the fuel in line) removed hose from bottom of fuel pressure regulator...no change ..and at WOT; no change. I discovered that there is NO vacuum comming from the little metal tube that the hose from the bottom of the fuel reg plugs into. I checked the manifold vac and it is 18(with in spec) so the symtom of lack of power is being caused by a lack of vac to the fuel reg, SO...my question is what is causing the lack of vac from the little tube under the TB??!! I hooked a hose to it and was able to blow air through it. so it doesn't seemed clogged. any one have any insight on this one???

good idea. egr valve. is there a specific test that can be used to check the EGR?

my 93 loyale 1.8L TBI (manufacture date of 09/92) is running rough at idle and has poor acceleration. (very poor acceleration from stop) the whole car will sometimes shake at a stoplight. So far I have done the following work to try to remedy the problem; New plugs & wires, new AT Modulator, New fuel injecter, New Distributor cap & Rotor, Checked Timing with Timing Light (20 degrees BTDC) Replaced Intake Air Filter, there are no Check Engine Lights, I did check most vacuum line and hoses for leaks and cracks, and found none. So I am stumped. I did however check the PCV vale last night and when I removed the hose from the end of the valve it seemed to me that there should have been alot more vacuum loss or hissing, but i remember checking the valve out itself and shaking it and it was then rattling just fine. So again can any one point me in the right direction? the rough idle seems to increase as the engine warms up, however the poor acceleration does just the opposite and seems to clear up as the engine warms up. I will say that as a mechanic in training, (attending ASE cert school) that I have been spoiled with the latest diagnostics (OBD II, live data) this car doesn't have that capability. which is another question I have, I have located the data link connectors under the hood but don't quite know how to use them. Maybe someone can enlighten me on how the system works and how pull data/ DTC's THANK YOU IN ADVANCE

ok, so...i have removed everything, including the faulty no. 2 toothed idler pulley. so now for the install. the automatic tensioner has been removed. is there a trick to re-installing it?( it doesn't seem to want to compress up wards) secondly and to me most importantly, the the left and right camshaft sprocket are out of alignment. the alignment mark should be @ 12 o'clock and the piston position mark should be @ 1 o'clock(the little arrow on cam sprocket) correct? is there a certain way to lign both sides up prior to belt install?? Or is it just as simple as rotateing the cam sprocket clockwise by hand until they are in alignment??

the timing belt is intact. as i just now discovered. so what next? I think it is a tensioner pulley that has failed. how do i take the crank pully off?

How does one remove the crank pulley with out changing the position of the # 1 cylinder from TDC? the crank pully on my car, (ej22 sohc 2.2L) does not have any spokes, only very narrow holes. ?????????

I drive two sue other is a 99 brighton legacy wagonbarus!...one is a 93 loyale while the other is a 99 brighton legacy wagon. Is the 99 legacy brighton (california emissions) 2.2L SOHC EJ22 an interference engine? I need to know because yesterday I think a timing belt tensioer pulley failed. I am in the process of taking it apart for diagnosis but noy sure if it is an interference motor or not? Also, the crank pully has no spokes so Iam trying to remove the pully with out changing the position of the # 1 cylinder. Any one have any thoughts on this?

what about power loss? or a dfinate "bogging out" during acceleration. are these symptoms at modulator related or should I be looking else where? I have the AT MODULATOR on order via Subaru. It's due in this THURS. so we shall see I guess. I am also having a fuel filter delivered tomarrow. AS far as the AT Mod is concerned, I know it is faulty, but I would rather not just "throw parts" at the bogging out problem. but the fuel filter is part of a standard tune-up any ways. Thanks for everyones input, I am sure I will be posting more..cuz this site has proved very useful and informative!

why are you discouraging an aftermarket part? Is the quality your concern? because I found one available today from "CARQUEST" When going to the dealer will cost only a few more dollars but it has to be ordered. And my car is currently off the road.

What kind of driveability problems/symptoms are directly related to a faulty AT Modulator?

yeah i have heard something about this modulator.."loosing fluid with no apparent leak" possible fluid flow up through the modulator diaphram and through the vac line into the crank case...?? any one care to comment on that? i am not yet cosidering a swap out. i want to remedy issue if possible. I bought this car last week for $900 w/ 57,000 miles, other than this issue everything is imaculate! interior is crystal clean(the old r12 ac still works well) this is the only complaint what i need is some specific info on the 3AT and related components. Can any one recomend a site or post/thread?

I just bought a 93 loyale w/57,000 original miles. it has the 3AT trans and is the 1.8L EA82 engine. since ownership i have put in 3 QTs of ATF. about every other day I measure fluid level and it is dry. ther are no visable leaks underneath or any where for that matter. However, I could be mistaken on what I think is an engine oil leak, it could maybe be a ATF leak. it is hard to tell when the under side is all dirty with road grime. upon initial start up everything seems fine, I engage the drive gear and prceed to accelerate. It imediately bogs out with serious power loss. after the engine has warmed to operating temp the power loss and and bogging out seems to subside. the power loss is only evedent in 1st and 2nd gears. I have given it a minor tune up so far, including plugs/wires & oil/oil filter change; I have also cleaned out the throttle boby/throttle plates; Every thing else seems to be intact,(elec connecters, harnesses, drive belts and so forth) Where could the ATF fluid be disappearing to??? Any and all insight is appriciated! Thanks in advance!

I have a 93 loyale with the 1.8l h4 EA82 engine with the 3AT transaxle. the problem is this; every other day i have to put a QT of ATF in to bring it up to level. upon start up, first start of the day(cold engine) it has poor acceleration. after warm up it seems to improve. Where is the AT fluid going? there are no obvious leaks, however there could be and i am mistaken them for what i think is an engine oil leak. any way the car has 57,000 original miles. Everything SHOULD be in relatively good working order. upon initial acceleration the engine bogs out with a very sluggish speed increase(more than normal) I have replaced plugs/wires and changed out the oil/oil filter cap/rotor is next. there is a sputter comming from the tail pipe during idle. Everything seems to be intact.( all wires, connecters, hoses etc...) My biggest concern is the AT fluid loss. does any one have experience with this vehicle and can offer me any insight as to were to look? there is definately something that isn't right I just bought this car and I am the second owner. I have been attending automotive school for 1/2 a year and would consider myself way above novice skill level on diagnosis and repair. thanks in advance for any and all insight!