kd7dej

I personally wouldn't buy a whole kit. I would just get the belt that you know you will need. Get her apart and check all the pulleys, idlers, tensioners, etc. Only replace them if you inspect them and they are bad. I have a service manual on my pc for the car if you want I can email it to you detailing on how to inspect the individual parts. That way you save money and only replace what needs replacing. Most auto shops keep the parts in stock so you can jsut get em as you need em. Prices don't usually seem much cheaper on the internet. Unless you need to get the car put back together right away, I would just take my advice.

No access to an ultra sonic cleaner. Anybody see a problem with using carb cleaner? The o-rings I'm assuming seat on the outside of the HVLA? or would I need to take the actual HVLA apart? Because that does sound like a pain?

Stuck relay? Making the fan stay on? Just throwing that one out there? I've had relays get stuck in the opposite way where the fan wouldn't come on.

I never took them apart and cleaned them. Checked oil pressure in various spots and it's good. Also has a brand new oil pump, so just going by the process of elimination. I took the valve covers off awhile ago to replace the leaking seals. Should of checked them then. So they can clean up pretty well and still work. I just assumed once they ticked, they were bad. I'll try that replace them as needed I suppose? but since I was going to be inside there anyways and they are relatively cheap I would just take em all out anyways. Kinda of that theory when one part goes bad, the others will follow suite soon since they are the same part and have done the same amount of work, ie wiper blades, serpentine belts, lights, bearings etc.

Anybody know of or have a cheap source to buy these? I decided since they are ticking anyways, I'm going to replace all 16. Just because I know someone will suggest it, it is not an oil problem from the pump or any blockages. 1996 2.2L. Cheapest I've found is $10.93 from NAPA. Online $11.53

Bump

I also would suggest contacting the local corporate office too, if the dealer won't budge. That is complete BS on a brand new car!

The guy listed above is named Tim Fuller. He is listed on other forums as well as soobcollektor. Does anybody know this guy personally, have a phone number for him or suggestions on how I can get a hold of him? A few months ago he sold me a replacement steering roll connector/clockspring assembly for my 97 Legacy Wagon. The part he sent me was the wrong one. He We emailed back and forth for awhile about getting a replacement or refund. He said he would look through some others to find the right one. I have not heard from him since July and have sent him emails since. I just want to get the right part from him or get a straight refund? Sounded like to me he regularly sold parts and cars from what I could find out about the guy? I would hate to think he is bad to do business with? :-\ Hey bill, I will try to take a look at what i have i actually completely forgot about it to be honest. My father has broken his ankle/heel and i have had to take care of him. I will check and get back to you. Sorry for the delay. -tim -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: kd7dej@hotmail.com To: soobcollektor@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Subaru Closk Spring on USMB Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 21:01:34 -0700 Cool, thanks man. Probably email pictures back and forth to be sure this time. Give me your address, I lost it, and I can ship the other one back. Here are two pdfs with the two different types. Mine is the one in the file where the last four are 6350, the one you sent me in the file. Don't ask me the difference, but it is ever so slight. Lining up on the bottom without the 'center window' like in 6350 as opposed to lining up on the left with the 'center window' like in 6170? Bill From: Tim Fuller Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 8:39 PM To: Bill B Subject: RE: Subaru Closk Spring on USMB Hi, sorry I havent been on my email in a while and I apologize in the delay in getting back to you. So you say there is a difference in the clock springs? I was almost certain that they were the same up through two thousand model years or so. I will look at what i have and let you know. -tim

I just spoke with a local subaru mechanic. He told me the one out of the outback should work. Thanks again for everyone's help

Found one out of a 97, it's an outback though. Supposed to be sending pics, should that one work just fine?

Oh yeah, to help my search, does anybody know which years/models are interchangeable with mine?

Okay, I think it is definitely broke than. I will do a wtb post on here and try the local junkyards. Hanksolder2 mentions I can get one new wholesale for around $160, where can I get that at just in case I have no luck with the other resources. Thanks everybody, been a ton of help

Oh and does anybody know if that steering roll connector is supposed to be able to rotate around over and over again without a stop? I'm wondering if I maybe rotated it too far and broke the ribbon inside? Thus why it will just turn and turn now?

AVK, so I guess the clock spring is in that part with the yellow label and that must be where I'm screwing up. Do you know how to center it than or can explain it in better detail?

I have a 1996 Subaru Legacy Wagon, manual trans, awd. Today I took the steering column apart to fix an ignition problem. Put everything back together and lord behold, the airbag light is on, the horn and cruise control don't work. Don't give me anything about clock springs because this year, like close years, does not have them. So there are wires going up into the steering roll connector. At the end of the roll connector (closest to the driver?) there are two sets of wires. One to plug into the cruise control, and a second to plug into the airbag module. You are supposed to run those into the steering wheel and then plug them in. My guess is I am lining something up wrong? There is a big yellow label that says something to the effect of "1. Make sure the front wheels are straight. 2. Rotate 2.65 turns from right end stop. 3. Line up arrows 4. read service manual" I think I am messing up on step 2? The service manual, at least the one from the factory, is very vague. I downloaded one. I have the front wheels straight and have tried lining the arrows up with no rotation from there; no luck. I have put the wires on the left hand side as shown in the service manual and rotated from there; again no luck. I have physically moved the wheel and tires themselves all the way to the right and rotated there; no luck. So anybody who is more knowledgeable, has had the same problem, or maybe has a Chiltons or Haines manual that explains in more detail, feel free to respond. And yes I have checked all connections, everything is how it should be and nothing is broke. Any Suby mechanics out there?