Datsunrides

+1 on the Greyhound suggestion. Cheapest option you will find on large, bulky items. Mark

The Datsun ignition tumblers do look very similar to the Subaru ones. I would guess you can get one to work. If you can't find something, I do have a spare with key I could sell you, if need be. Mark

Just an update for those that are interested. The "group buy" windshield gaskets will indeed fit the coupe glass. Not perfectly, but they will work. The sides fit perfect, the bottom is a touch on the loose side and the top requires a bit of a stretch to make it. Not a problem with a new, soft rubber. I have it on a spare windshield and plan on leaving it on there til' needed to see if it will conform a bit to the size. Mark

I'm usually leery of clear coats in a can. The couple times I used a clear in the past, it did not take long for it to start to yellow. This paint has UV protection specifically for outdoor exposure, but time will tell. I have a couple extra cans so if it starts to fade after a time, I can always recoat. Mark

Yes, the rustoleum primer is white. I am not aware of any clear primers for plastic, but that does not mean there isn't something out there. The main thing, regardless of color, is the product adheres to the plastic. The Krylon was difficult to find. I had the same issue as you are, there are a few different paints that have a good color match, but have some sort of texture or had a lot of metallic content. I think once you find the Krylon paint, you will see it's a very close match, both in color and level of metallic. Mark

See post #31

If you do decide to stay with the stock hubcaps, there are a few on eBay. (been hearing that alot). the engine you have is a "wet" sleeve motor, that is the bores that the piston rides in is replaceable, unlike a "normal" or dry sleeve motor that the bores are part of the block. Since the sleeves are not part of the block, there need to be a seal between them and the block, to keep the water out, hence the copper rings. For the air cleaner paint, it seems to be very close to the color Datsun used. I believe you can buy rattle can paint from classic datsun motorsports. Or, take it to a local paint shop. I think most have the capability to color match and provide it in a rattle can also. Mark

It's called Krylon for outdoor spaces and has a metallic finish. Paint code is 2909 Charcoal. Mark

That's one clean car Kiwi, especially the interior! Paco, set your valves to .011-.013 on the intake and exhaust with a cold engine. I got one of those eBay gasket sets. Not a bad deal, but I would be a little leery of using those head gaskets. Subafreak, if you do go 4 wheel disc, or even swap just the fronts, you will want to upgrade the master/porportioning valve to one that matches the system you install. Discs pump more fluid volume and need a larger bore than the drum master can provide. The drum one will technically work, but you will end up having to pump the brakes to get the pedal up. Mark

Yeah, I have parts from 2 cars stored in this room! I don't dare clean parts inside the house though. Wife draws the line there. For the front grille, I sanded it down with some 400 grit then used a rustoleum primer that is specially made to bond to plastic. It was then topcoated with regular rattle can (krylon) that most closely matched the original metallic grey color. All plastic parts were done this way. If you have not tried, regular spray paint does not stick well to plastic. SEM makes some colored paints especially for plastic, but did not have a color close enough to use. I do have the stainlees trim for it, but it is set aside to go to the guy I use for my chroming to get polished at some point. Mark

Ok, back to my car now! Got some more stuff cleaned up and ready to install, once I can actually finish the car. Side markers. Lenses polished and housings blasted and painted. Grille and side pieces. All were sanded down and repainted. Seat belts Misc parts Taillights. lenses polished and bezels repainted. Heater box. Fully disassembled and resealed. Door panels. Had 2 of each and basically took the good vinyl off the bad, water damaged backing, and installed them on the good backing that had bad vinyl. I really need to get back to finishing the rust repair so I can get her painted. Mark

Nice to see you picked it up, and even has an A/C setup!. Hopefully you can hold to your plan of attack better than I did. I started with the intent of fixing the car in stages, but one thing (rust) led to another (more rust) and next thing I know, it's in pieces! Like Moosens said, check fleabay for the mechanical bit as there is a fair bit on there and most of it is cheap. I think I paid $35 for a brand new clutch disc/pressure plate. Another good source is Rock Auto. They always seem to have stuff on clearance for dirt cheap prices. Just need to check every once in a while. A source for "junkyard" parts is car-part.com. I know I have the front retractors for the seat belts if Paul doesn't. If they will cross over (they should, but not sure) I do have a front disc setup on my coupe parts car you could use to upgrade. I'm pretty sure the calipers need rebuild or worse case, use as cores for new ones. PM me if this is something you may want to do. Finally, I see leathers and number plates in the background. You a fellow knee dragger? Mark

Wow, that looks like a very nice foundation, and a 5 speed to boot? If you do pick that up, you definetely need to start a build thread so the real experts like Moosens, Leeroy, Kostamojen, The Beast, etc. can chime in on your questions. These guys know their stuff and have been a huge help to me during this process. I'll be glad to help, if I can, and I do have some spare parts, but it seems not too much crosses over from coupe to sedan. Mark

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. I can see in what's left of the design that it would just trap the water in there and it really has nowhere to drain. Should not be too to fabricate new ones, if it comes to that. Mark

Leeroy, just what I was hoping for. And I can do even better, since I can leave it on a windshield for 8 months (and we'll be back to 100 degree weather in about 5)! I'll find out soon enough. Did you ever get a chance to check the glass holders? (still no rush) Mark

Hey guys, I have the opportunity to buy one of the "group buy" front windshield rubbers, but am unsure if it will fit. Talking to a couple other members did not clarify this. My coupe is a 73' and I am hoping it will either directly interchange or be larger so I can slice and dice (gotta do what ya gotta do!). Thanks in advance for any insight. Mark

Aren't all aftermarket 140mm wheels hard to find, especially ones from the 70's? Mark

Those wheels look like old Appliance/Western wires. Someone probably found Saab centers that fit in the hole as I believe (not an expert) all 4 lug Saab's are on 108mm centers. Mark

Well, if Danny did bid on it, he did not go high enough, luckily. I was prepared to go much higher. Mark

Sure was. Surprised it went for only a bit over $5! Mark

Sorry. 73' GL coupe. Mark

If you can find them, I bet 73' and earlier bumpers would be an easy retrofit. Last I checked, it was like $500 to restore a larger padded dash, so a smaller one may be cheaper? I wouldn't worry about powdercoating the wheels. They could always be stripped and repainted to original at a later date if you ever changed your mind. Not an irreversable modification if they are a rare wheel. Mark

OK, hopefully I can get someone to clarify which is the correct badge for the rear taillight panel for the coupe. Here is what I have, The one on the right came on the "good" car and has 3 mounting holes. the one on the right came on the parts car and has 2 mounting holes. Now, when I removed the one on the left from the parts car panel, it had holes in the panel that would also mount the right one, but the panel from the good car only has the 3 holes. Also, the left is metal while the right is plastic. I assume the one on the right is correct and somewhere in it's life, the parts car had the left one "retrofitted". If the left one is not "correct", any insight on what it's from? I may just go with the left one anyways, as it is much more detailed with the scrolling inside the letters, similar to other scrolling on interior badges. Mark

Some more pics of parts I have restored for future installation. Headlight surrounds, front signal buckets, and headlight mounts were sandblasted and painted. I used gold paint to sorta replicate cadmium plating. The headlight rings were hand polished and those are actually NOS gaskets for the turn signals. Shifter and e-brake consoles. The e-brake console is just cleaned up. The shifter console had the center section repainted and I also repainted the border trim silver. The rest was simply cleaned. Badges. All are simply cleaned up. Got lucky they are in nice shape. The grill emblem actually still has most of the blue still on it! Dash stuff. All items cleaned up nicely. I did repaint the silver outlines on the bezel and the text on the switches. Rear hinge covers (repainted) and arm rests (cleaned) NOS trans mount! I also found, after stripping the interior from the parts car that the cowl section that is rusted out in the "good" car is actually in good shape in the parts car, so I am going to cut it out and weld it to the sections I have yet to finish. Should save a bunch of metal fab time! Got a bunch of other parts in various stages of completion that I hope to complete in the next couple weeks, so for now, enjoy! Mark