Datsunrides

What is your ETA on completion, BTW? Mark

I HIGHLY doubt that. I am only doing this much to it due to the fact I had to pull the motor to replace the clutch and I had a free spot on the side of the house since my 72' Toyota Corolla 2dr. wagon is over at the fabricators having some sheet metal patches installed that are too much for me to easily do at home. Once that comes home, the subie goes on the back burner, hopefully with the whole front suspension redone so I don't have to pull it apart again. Once I get the wagon complete, it will be full speed ahead! Oh, and it doesn't really matter if I were to finish it before you. You will still end up with a WAY cooler (and rarer) car. Mark

No issues with the fenders at all. Very solid. And the cowl area is in great shape also, probably due to the fact the drains were not blocked. I have a bit of time while I wait for the temp to come down (it's a hot one today!) so I figure as good a time as any to post up some progress from the last couple days. Cleaned up the engine Installed the new clutch with a freshly resurfaced flywheel Painted the valve covers, pulleys, alt brackets, and oil fill tube. Adjusted the valves while I was at it. They were pretty loose. New rotors on sandblasted and painted hubs I have got both inner fenders sanblasted so far and have started the engine bay. And finally, the color of choice. Think I'll stand out in a crowd? I believe it's a 74' or 75' stock Subaru color. Time to hydrate and get back to blasting. Oh joy. Mark

Yeah, I am pretty happy with it so far. The rockers also seem very solid. So far no surprises. Only rust is what I already knew was there. It would seem that Subaru was very stingy with the seam sealer, as that is where most of the issues are. You have any pics of your old coupe Paul? I'd love to see some! Now I need to find a Subaru dealer that would be willing (and able)to see if any of the parts I need are still available. (fingers crossed) Mark

Well, I started what I will call phase 1 of the restoration today. What I am expecting to accomplish during phase 1 is basically the folowing, -Pull the engine/trans and replace the clutch. I want to also upgrade to a 5 speed. Clean up the existing engine. -Sandblast and repaint the underhood areas and front valence with base/clear -Sandblast and re-undercoat the wheel wells -Clean and paint the crossmember -Possibly rebuild the suspension based on finding parts while it's apart. -Repair any rust. With that as my mission statement, here is today's progress. Pulled the engine/trans. Took me a bit to figure out how to disconnect the shifter! (noob, remember) Pulled the trans off to inspect the clutch. You can see why my clutch was slipping! Here are the before pics of the engine bay. Still need to pull a couple items off. Pulled the fenders off so I could get paint under them and also so I could inspect the front of the rockers, as there tends to be issues with trapped water in this location on other cars. I was pleasantly surprised. No rust at all there. Only rust I found so far is in the passenger wheel well. This will be real easy to fix. My next step will be to sandblast the underhood and wheel well areas and epoxy prime. As of right now, I plan on repainting it in the original yellow color. I already have a new clutch on it's way and will be ordering the 5 speed on Monday, hopefully. I also need to remove a few broken bolts also. Only broke like 5 off, which I think is not bad in the scheme of things. I did manage to rebuild the carb during the week. I now have a working accelerator pump but it's running lean at idle. The carb has been apart before so I need to see if a jet has been installed in the wrong spot. I put them back where I pulled them from, but that doesn't mean the are in the right spot. The idle mixture screw has no effect at all so I think the slow air jet may be the culprit. Until next time, Mark

Just some food for thought. I pulled the drivetrain out of the 73' today and did some comparing, EA63 to EA71 (early). Here is what I found out. Some of this may be common knowledge already, but it's news to me! The 1600 bellhousing will not mate to the 1400 trans. Little bit wider. The 1400 flywheel will bolt up to the 1600 crank (the early motor at least) So, if you use the 1600 trans, you would need the 1600 bell/flywheel/clutch. If you go with a 1400 trans, you use the 1400 bell/flywheel/clutch. If you use the 1100 trans, I don't know! Seems the 1400 clutch is 7 1/8" and the 1600 is 7 7/8". Mark

I have used STP filters for many years with no issues. Fram filters belong in the garbage, not the junk box. It's sad as Fram used to make top quality filters. :-\ Mark

Ok, I am interested as I would rather keep my money "in the family", as it is, but hopefully you or someone else can confirm some questions I have. My plan of attack with this car is to run the original 1400 engine for a while longer until I get around to building up a 1600 (maybe a year, maybe longer). That said, I need to replace the clutch that's in the car now due to slippage. I figure since I have to replace the clutch, I may as well upgrade the trans, but it still needs to work with the 1400 engine for now AND the 1600 for later, ideally. I do not know what bellhousings match with what engines/trans/flywheel/clutch. I think the 1600 uses a larger flywheel/clutch than the 1400, so does that mean the trans bellhousing is larger than the 1400 one? Does the 1600 input shaft have a different size/spline than the 1400 requiring a frankenstein clutch? Sorry for all the questions. Read this to see why I've got so many questions! http://www.1stgencivic.org/world/c1zr/m1/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8341&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Mark

I have located a 5 speed trans for my 73' coupe at B&B auto wreckers in Waco, and would apperciate it if there are any members in that area that could 1) Check it out and confirm it's indeed a five speed and 2) Help with shipping via Greyhound if it looks good. I would really like to upgrade to a 5 speed, but the truck freight cost kills the deal. I think Greyhound is around $100 at the most, hopefully less. If you are willing to assist, please email me at m nakashima at charter dot net (no spaces) to discuss. Thanks, Mark

Got a little work done on her today. Managed to install some new brake shoes to get the brakes to work properly so I could do a test drive. On the test drive, some other issues arose . As I had expected, the left outer CV is toast. I think the right may be OK, but couldn't hear it over the racket the left was making . Also found out the clutch is roasted. It probably died from lack of adjustment. It was super tight when I got it and I had hoped that a correct adjustment would help. It did a little bit, but it still slips pretty good. May be glazed, but if I have to pull it, it will get a new one. I also have a broken right motor mount AND trans mount. Now I need to try and hunt those down. On a more positive note, I managed to get a carb rebuild kit ordered last week so I should be able to rebuild the carb next weekend and a compression check tells me the engine seems to be in good health. 180 psi across the board! . So now come the questions, Engine/trans mounts- Are these available anywhere? I did look a bit and could find nothing. I would think there is an interchange? Axle- Looks like NAPA has a listing for $60. Do these early axles interchange with newer models? Clutch- Here is where I have to make a decision. Sorry for the long clarification, but I want you to see what my plan is. I would like to pull the drivetrain out this winter and clean up the 1400 motor/trans and paint the underhood area, and reinstall the 1400 until I can build up a nice 1600 for it. Now, I don't really want to spend the money for a 1400 clutch if it won't swap to the 1600. If the 1400 flywheel won't bolt to the 1600, will the 1400 clutch pack bolt to the 1600 flywheel (I don't know either way)? I would rather hold off a bit on rebuilding a motor since the one in there seems solid and I would rather spend the money fixing more pressing issues. As always, and help or insight you can provide will be appreiciated. P.S. I love the way the exhaust sounds on the road! I just ordered a vidcam yesterday (Kodak ZX1), so I should be able to get sound clips posted in a bit, and I found out the 1600 oilpan is a fair bit deeper then the 1400 pan. Would be nice for a capacity increase but it would hang below the crossmember. Mark

Rock Auto is an excellent online parts house, but I don't think they have OEM parts. I have got parts from them that were in OEM packaging, but I think it was a fluke/overstock thing as I had ordered the aftermarket part. Beck/Arnley is good for supplying the exact same part as OEM, but in their own box, for a lot less. Lot of closeout specials there right now with ridiculously low prices! Mark

Mike, PM sent. Mark

Well, I have not been looking earnestly, but they don't seem to be all over the place here. I can find tons of 81's and 82's, which don't help. And if I did find one, it would probably be a late motor, and I kinda like the fact the early motor looks very similar to the EA63 currently in the car. I will keep my eyes open for a replacement, but if one does not show up, I will probably just build this one. If I do build this one, I plan to grind down the crack and TIG weld it back up, surface it flat, and o-ring the block. It should be fine as the crack is maybe 1/32nd deep at the most and it's in a solid part of the motor. Mark

My main point in asking those questions was primarily to see how much of the engine I could "pre-assemble", using the EA71 parts vs. the EA63 stuff. It was very hot out the day I asked and I could not be bothered to go and look myself. Mark

I put forth this question in my build thread, but I figured I'd give it it's own thread rather than being buried in the other one, as I need an answer. My question is this. Do I need to be concerned about this crack? The engine is a 78' or so EA71 1600 It seems to be in a solid part of the block and only very slightly extends into the bores. Does not reach to where the rings stop. Can I run the engine with this crack, should I have it ground out and filled with weld, or is it terminal? I know of some engines that have issues with blocks cracking (mostly from bolt holes to water passages) that has no bearing on anything other than there being a crack there. I am hoping this is the case here, but have no experience with the Subie engines. Also, not that I plan on using them, but both heads look to have a crack running between the intake and exhaust seats. No signs of any coolant leaking thru as it's still carboned up. Common issue? Mark

Well, I will add my list here as well. Here is what I'm looking for. Car is a 73' GL coupe. Front bumper Rear bumper Both front turn signal lenses Grille Right front side marker Front strut rubber hats Lower control arm bushings Sway bar bushings Dome light assembly Back up light Tail garnish (the piece between the taillights) Matched door and trunk lock (I can have a key made if needed) Passenger door window regulator Passenger door outer door handle Glove box insert Knob for the face/fresh/recirc lever Defroster duct hose Quarter window glass and all hinges/latches (PO siliconed plexi in) Front and back windshield rubbers Door weatherstripping Quarter glass weatherstripping Trunk weatherstripping Outside door glass rubbers Any bushings for the rear suspension Carb rebuild kit (or maybe a good used carb?) Thanks for any assistance you may be able to provide. Mark

Well, I was able to pick up an early EA71 today, thanks to 4x4brat. Got home and disassembled it to see what's what. What I found may or may not be an issue. There is a crack between the bores on the passenger side bank. I do not think this will be a problem as it seems to be in a solid part of the block with no water passage behind it, but I am asking because I don't know whether it's a problem or something to not lose any sleep over. If it's superficial, I may have it ground down and welded up just for peace of mind. Is this a good idea? Oh, and EVERY bolt on the top of the engine and waterpump broke, so if the block is useable, I will have a lot of broken bolts to remove. Another couple of questions I have regards what will swap between the 1400 in my 73' and this 1600. Can someone clarify the following, 1- Are the bellhousings the same between 1400 and 1600? 2- Are the oil pans the same between 1400 and 1600? 3- Will the flywheel from the 1400 fit the 1600 or will a 1600 clutch setup fit the 1400 trans? 4- Are the motor mounts/brackets the same? I have been giving serious consideration to building a supercharged engine after seeing those pics kostamojen posted earlier. The M45 superchargers can be found pretty cheap. That SC pulling fuel from a single 45mm Mikuni should make good power. If I go foward with this, I will probably limit boost to 8 psi or less. What is holding me back right now is figuring out how to make sure I get more fuel into the engine when pressurized, or should I say how to do it cost effectively. There is/was a product that was sold for motorcycle carbs that basically was a spraybar that mounted in front of the venturi's to add additional fuel that I'm trying to get info on. While I would love the cool factor, I also am not going to sink thousands into a motor that may make 150 hp. I hope to get the brakes and carb fixed this week so I can actually drive it around and see what other gremlins rear their heads. Mark

Another positive reccomendation for Rock Auto. I have never had any issue with them, even on returns. On top of that, they have excellent prices. The only gripe is with shipping. You need to be careful when shopping as items coming from different warehouses are charged separate shipping. You can usually find the same part in a different manufacturer for only a buck or two more and have it ship from the same warehouse as the other parts on the order, saving extra shipping costs. Just takes a little time going back and forth. I also check back at least every couple months as they always seem to have stuff on closeout for crazy low prices. One of the many things I recently got was a new complete clutch kit for a Honda for $35! Didn't necessarily need it right now, but for the cost, I could not pass it up. Lots of old Subie parts on closeout right now. Mark

The registration for the 2009 JCCS show is open. http://www.japaneseclassiccarshow.com/ I won't have the Subie ready this year but will be taking my 77' Honda Accord. If any members are going, stop by and say hi. Oh, and post up if you are planning to go, either to look or show! Mark

You know, out of all my cars, the B110 seems to be a lot of peoples favorite. It is probably my favorite also, but I am biased. Mark

Unless you are going to add some form of boost to the engine, or NOS, (or not want a piston failure @ 10,000 feet!), there are better places to spend the money than on forged pistons. Moly rings should be readily available, but cast will work just fine. Actually, $25 a piston is not bad, especially if it comes with a new pin and rings. Let me know if you don't want them, as I would consider getting them. Mark

I would find O/S pistons and bore it while you have it apart. I always have the cylinders on engines I rebuild bored out, especially if there are signs of water sitting in them. Same goes with decking the block and heads to true them up and resizing the rods w/ new rod bolts. I would say to also line hone the mains, but that is probably expensive on a Subaru engine. That way I know everything is either round or flat! Balancing would be nice if you can swing it. Cast pistons should be fine for the low power levels the engine will produce as would cast rings, but I would run moly if you can source them. My opinion is stay away from chrome rings. Who are you going to use for the machining? Mark

Keep us apprised of how the heads (when you get some) bolt on or what mods are needed. Mark

Yeah, the 310 was a decent little car. You are right about the no respect part. Just found out today my Roadster was pictured in a Japanese auto magazine called Lightning. A friend sent me the pic. This was taken at the 2008 JCCS show. Kinda cool to have a pic in a mag, even if I didn't know! Mark

Thanks for the comments. The Roadster is actually a 91' Ford Festiva Teal. The 1200 is my baby. Of all my cars, this would be the last one to go if I had to sell them off (unless I get one of those "offers you can't refuse") My first running car was a 1968 510 4 door. I kinda realized way back then (20 years ago) that the 68's were kind of special, due to all the differences between it and the later models. If I had it today, it would not have been sold. I have driven those B/W autos and they, to put it mildly, blow. Mark