Datsunrides

No and Yes

I am far from an expert on porting, but here is my 2 cents. Unless you plan to make your engine "breathe" better, through bigger carbs, racy cam, and large exhaust (read increase the RPM's), porting will may little if any difference to a stockish engine. You would probably get better results doing a simple port match and cleaning and deburring and a nice 3 to 5 angle valve job. There are other tricks like larger valves and cut down guides etc, but once again, you would only see results at higher revs. Mark

Actually, I'd really like to finish it off myself. As you know, these early coupes are rare birds and it would be cool to actually get one back on the road. You wouldn't want to know what I would need to get for this to let it go with what I've invested so far..... (actually I don't need to be reminded either! LOL)

Yeah, been finishing up a 72' TE28 wagon and a 66' 520 pickup over the last couple years. Honestly let this stall out due to the difficulty of obtaining parts. Need to get back to pestering Danny! No promises, but I will see about re-linking pics as (if) I get time. RustyBrat, you can come get it so long as you bring a pile of cash! Mark

Just bumping this up. I still have the car and intend to finish it at some point. Been busy finishing some other long term projects, but hopefully I can get back on it this summer (I need a break!). Oh, and sorry for the dead links. Webshots really screwed people over. I attached a pic of what it looked like when I got it. Click for full size. Mark

Yes, I have used both for coilover conversions before, just not on a Subaru yet, but a strut is a strut for the most part. The 92' will be a 2" strut. For the 1 3/4", you need to use the gen 1 (86'-87') rear strut if you are shortening. Not a big selection for performance inserts anymore. Last ones I did I used Koni yellows. VW rabbit is another short insert option. Mark

Be sure to measure your strut tubes as the MR2 struts have 2 diameters. Gen 1 MR2 rear has 1 3/4" tubes and gen 2 front are 2".

I think the wet sleeve motors are not what is being sought. I have a complete EA62 (in unknown condition, but possibly a runner) and offered it to Kosta when the issue with the dry sleeve arose. He sold the car instead! LOL Mark

You don't weld the sleeve in. The original cylinder is bored way out and a new steel sleeve is pressed in, then bored and honed to whatever size you need, be it std or oversize. Heck, it may even be possible to use a wet sleeve cylinder as a sleeve? While I can't speak to the dynamics of the Subaru case, sleeving has been done almost as long as cars have been around. Ideally, a different block would be the best solution, but as stated, dry sleeve 1400's are not falling off trees. I would have no issue with a properly installed sleeve in any engine. Mark

You should be able to drill and tap the outside for a threaded plug or machine a plug and have it welded in and a good machine shop should have no problem installing a sleeve in the bad cylinder. Good as new! Mark

May be a broken piston skirt or bad wrist pin. When the noise starts, pull the plug wire for that cylinder. If the noise goes away, bad news...........

Just a vouch for doing business with Danny. Mark

So the OP stopped by my shop today to figure out how to pop linkage from the wiper motor. Turns out pushing a 19mm 12pt socket over the tabs is just the ticket for getting all 4 of the tabs compressed so the linkage will come off with no damage to the plastic. Mark

Rock Auto has a listing. Dirt cheap for a quality Beck/Arnley part. Mark

Since it is an all metal dash frame, I'm sure there is a way you can make it fit. The dash pad is pretty simple, so if it needs to be narrowed, pretty easy to shorten that too. Coupe dash frame is 47" wide. Mark

The newer alt is internally regulated, where the original has an external regulator. What probably happened was the newer alt was backfeeding power after the switch due to crosswiring. As for the turbo, unless it was an aftermarket kit, these did not come turbo from the factory untill later in life. What leads you to believe it was turbo? You can't just bolt on a turbo to a carb'd car. There is a lot involved. Mark

If you can see the #'s, most industrial bearing houses can cross them to something they stock or can get. Failing that, they can also find seals by dimension.(need to be careful pulling them) Mark

Have the charging system checked. Most likely an alternator/regulator failure. Mark

Kosta, I have a feeling if I tried to open a shop 2 years ago, there is a good chance I'd be homeless! Nipper, I can rebuild carbs, but the biggest problem I've seen is how many times someone has tried to "rebuild" them before and done it so poorly that nothing short of a new carb will fix them. If they are on a running car, I can usually do something about it, but as a bench rebuild, it's unfortunately a roll of the dice sometimes. Moosens, I sure hope so. Franchise? Mark

Well guys, I finally pulled the trigger and opened my own shop! JCARS is dedicated to servicing all japanese classic autos and cycles from the 60's to the early 80's with an emphasis toward body and paint. You can take a look at my very basic website at http://www.jcarservices.com (hey, I'm a car guy, not a web designer! ) I am planning to have a grand opening/BBQ/swap meet sometime in early May and I will let you know when the date is nailed down. Hopefully some local members will attend. I'll get some pics of the shop up soon for you guys. I'd be honored to help you keep you car on the road or get your project back on the road! Mark

Mine has like 6 separate brackets! The compressor bolts mainly to a bracket bolted to the head. The bracket near the center stabilizes the compressor and holds the idler for the water pump belt. The alternator bracket bolts to the side of the compressor and the adjustment arm bolts to the lower bracket. If you need, I can take close up pics when I get access to it. Mark

Depends on the rust.................... Probably need a little more info like coupe/sedan(2dr or 4dr)/wagon, 2wd/4wd, 4speed/5speed/auto. Also if the tags are current. That can be a huge expense here in CA is they have not been paid for a few years and it's not on non-op. Mark

That was a screaming deal. I can't remember what I paid for mine without digging thru the receipts, but IIRC, it was somewhere just under $100 for a rebuilt. (but it did come with the clutch) Mark

Here is what I have. Not the best pic, but this is what it looked like in the car. My opinion, get a Sanden type compressor and just fab some brackets. I believe there are DIY universal bracket kits out there. The mini York compressors used on these cars are not easy to find and by this point are probably shot. I know mine was and it took a while to find a replacement. Mark

Yes!