Datsunrides

I should clarify that I meant pre OBD II. The OBD II wiring harnesses are much more complicated to transplant than the pre 1996 OBD I harnesses. Like I said, I am not that versed in Subaru EFI systems, but the older the harness/computer, the easier the retrofit will be. As for the fuel pump, I do what you are thinking, cut and weld a pump/sump from a newer tank with a similar depth the the original tank. This is no joke welding on an old gas tank, so please exercise extreme caution. My process is to flush the tank with water a few times to rid it of as much gas vapor as I can (There will ALWAYS be some vapor), then fill it most of the way with water while welding AND have a nitrogen purge on top of that, since nitrogen will not allow any vapors to ignite inside the tank. Mark

While I have not done this on a Subaru, I have done EFI motor swaps on other old Japanese cars. Sometimes you get lucky and the EFI harness is standalone, other times you need to spend a bunch of time separating wires from the main harness. I would say to try and find a pre-OBD harness/ECU, as these are by far easier to wire in, usually only requiring a couple power supplies (batt and switched), some grounds, maybe a couple generic relays, and a couple wires run to items like the fuel pump. Which brings up the point that the fuel systems is usually the most difficult to do correctly. Easy way out is to just install an inline pump, but most of those are noisy, and you will run into starvation issue when the tank gets low. Intank conversion is not easy (unless you find a tank that will retrofit), but is the best way to go. Mark

Take it to a chrome shop. Shouldn't cost much just to have them dip it to remove the chrome. Other option would be to grind it off unless you want to mess with very strong acids and the resulting byproduct. Mark

OK Paul, you asked for it. For my 73' coupe Both front turn signal lenses Front strut rubber hats Lower control arm bushings Sway bar bushings, both ends Dome light assembly or lense Glove box insert Back windshield rubbers (and trim) Door weatherstripping Quarter glass weatherstripping Trunk weatherstripping Misc rubber for quarter glass (around outside edge) Outside door glass rubbers Misc rubber for front door glass (around outside edge) Any bushings for the rear suspension Motor mounts Hood release cable Front sidemarker gaskets Heater hoses Heater valve Hood bumpers Taillight gaskets Let me know if you find any of these goodies. Mark

Weird. Sounding like a crack in the cylinder head. You should see about borrowing one of those radiator pressure testers and see if you can pinpoint where the leak is. If it does not fill with liquid with the valves closed, it pretty much leaves the area above the valve as the source, not the head gasket. Does it look like someone tried to port the head? Maybe someone went too far and went into a water jacket. Mark

I don't think fiberglass would effect a lasting repair. You may be able to screw down a large piece of thicker metal and somehow reattach the hinge to that without welding. Mark

Lots listed here. http://www.car-part.com/ Cool to see a fellow Ratsun member here. Mark

*shudder* I had cowl rust that looked like that and it turned out to be much worse under the surface. I ended up replacing the metal, but it was not fun and time consuming. Not something I would want to do again. The only problem I would say with just POR'ing it would be if the rust is bad, it should be fixed as the cowl has some fairly thick metal (and 3 layers) that I would assume is there for a reason (as in structural). If is is just a little more than surface, I'd treat it and coat it and call it a day. You will want to cut out the battery tray to treat the rust under it. The frame repair should not be too bad, mostly flat metal. Good luck and keep up the progress reports. Mark

They make larger elbows, you just can't get them from home depot. You need to check places like grainger or a shop that makes hydraulic hoses. May not have it as 1 piece, but it can be assembled with threaded fittings for sure. If you can't find anything, I can mitre a piece of pipe and weld it back up. Mark

Gotcha. One thing to keep in mind is that size radiator along with a single fan worked well for the car when new, 40 years ago. Newer fans are much more efficient in regards to cfm vs. size, so a new 9" fan is probably better at moving air than the original, especially a Spal fan. Those cheapy eBay ones are pretty weak. Really, the only time the fan should be working is at speeds under 20mph or so, especially with a new radiator. Also, if if the lower connection becomes an issue after fianl mounting, there is a fitting you can have soldered on that will turn the outlet 90 degrees. Mark

Do you really think you will need 2 fans? I would think 1 would be fine. Also, if there is room in the front, they sell pusher type fans you can mount in front of the radiator. As far as the harness, you can make one yourself really cheap. A regular 30A relay with harness is about $5, and a few feet of wire and connectors you probably have laying around. Mark

Usually, a dim light is caused by a bad ground. Actually, most electrical problems are a result of a bad ground. Mark

May be an issue with the torque converter. The basic design of the converter is to allow it to "slip" until a certain RPM is reached. If the converter does not "slip" correctly, it would be kinda like a stick shift car coming to a stop without pushing in the clutch. A knowledgable transmission shop (and I don't mean double a, mco:lol:) should be able to verify if this is the issue, or maybe a line pressure problem. I do not think the vacuum modulator would cause this issue, as it is there more or less to control shift point. Mark

Not that hard to do with an extra pair of hands. Basically, place the rubber around the glass, place a small rope in the channel where it will seal to the body, place the glass on the car, have somebody hold the glass down while the person on the inside slowly pulls the rope, pulling the seal inside the car. That said, most mobile glass shops will install them for a small fee, saving you the work. Mark

Don't know. The postmaster at my office told me they don't ship over 70 lbs so I don't know if they have a separate service like fedex ground vs. freight. Either way, damage to this extent should not happen. Mark

Paul, I got this one from Danny. I know there are others out there, but it sucks that a NOS one got destroyed. Danny has another one, it will just take some time for him to dig it out. Oh, and the whole mess with dealing with the post office. Yeah, there was no insurance, but come on, I would not call this incidental damage. Something extremely heavy fell on it (but usps does not ship anything over 70 lbs....) or something ran it over. You don't get damage like this in a reinforced area simply by dropping it. I have actually had good results with usps, until now. We'll see if they make this right. Some good news, the NOS glass holders made it unscathed! Mark

Gotta love the USPS. Wonder why they have a bad rep. :mad: Mark

Got bored today and finally grouped the cars together for a couple pics. (at least of the running ones ) Mark

The ones I'm sending are 14mm. Mark

Well, I know I have the bolts, as I removed them to get you the washers. If you can wait, I can gather a few up and send them out, only this time I will let the post office weight them to determine postage, so it won't take a week to get there. Mark

Help is on the way! Mark

What are you looking to get for those? Mark

That is a Honda CVCC cylinder head. It's either from an ED Civic motor or from an EF Accord motor. Somewhere around 76'-81'. Put up a post on the first gen. civic forum. One of the guys there will know exactly what it's off of. Mark

Cool. Nice to see another coupe being revived. Might get me motivated to get mine finished. This is one of Danny's former coupes? Mark

Just my opinion, but $300 is a bit high. Around here you can have a basic valve job done for about $30 a cylinder + needed parts, if any. Mark