92_rugby_subie

Sweet Spencer, thank you! Gotta see if I can find 5W-30 in T6 Rotella!

Okay, I went to Google for my ignorance... so I could see what the difference was.... Is this correct:

I have NEVER used anything other than 10w30 in every single car I have owned and never had an issue... but I didnt know any different because thats what my parents do. But then again, Im going with a rebuilt motor and a synthetic oil. A few of "different types" of vehicles I used 10w30 in: 1968 Buick Skylark 1983 Subaru GL wagon 1992 Subaru Loyale 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage 1991 Chevrolet S10 I just... I want this motor to last so that when Im done with it, I can pass it on to someone who needs it and they can rest assured that it is still "Like new" I may seem a little off my wall because I havent decided on an oil :-\ but I really appreciate the opinions and the knowledge that is passed on. thanks guys!

If the motor is knocking chances are its going to go Kaboom. EJ22 swap has been discussed a lot on here, but is quite expensive if you do not know the wiring part of it... the bolt in part probably isnt that difficult (I do not speak from experience other than watching it be done) but the wiring is where (as read) people give-up and the EJ swap project stops. If you have another EA82 thats in good running condition or needs minor work, start swapping the best parts to the best motor and drop it in there, but dont think of repairing the EA82, think of saving towards the EJ swap. Im rebuilding an EA82 for my car, that will be in there for probably 10-30k miles but then be sold and an EJ22T will be put in its place, along with an AWD and 5 lug swap, lowering etc... but I dont have the funding for that, and cant have my DD out of the picture for the time it will take me to get the money for that kind of project. Just my .02 :cool:

May not be good for it but it'll make it.

I know it may be minimal and not that great, but I has no monies to do anything butt-kicking yet but I painted my wiper arms Before: After: After:

Bump - still looking for a preference on oil... Not sure if I wanna put 15-40 in when Ive always run 10-30 but what is good for performance? I dont plan to baby my motor after its break in period...

Welcome! What would you like to learn about? A fuel injected EA82 or EJ22 is a great Daily Driver... Can usually pick up the first generation legacy for under 1K (EJ22) and EA82s are good daily drivers as well 1988-1994 GL, Loyale, try to avoid the Turbos at all costs as they... arent as reliable.

The Legacy is a dime a dozen... at least around here. I would get the GLF and make it look good and keep it.

176K on my carbed 86 GL. Motor is out of a 1991 Loyale (SPFI) with about 145-150k miles on it, getting a full rebuild and torque grind from Delta cams. So it will have 0 miles on it when I drop it back in... New seals, new gaskets etc.

Definitely tons of information, just have to utilize the search function at the top right. Im assuming you have a 3AT? So the 3AT to 5 Speed swap is what youre going to be looking for info on.

So are you recommending against it? Im still not sure WHICH oil to run? 5w-40? 10w-30? 10w-40? 15w-30? 15w-40? I know it depends on my climate, but I have a friend running 5W-40 in his car because thats what his dealer recommends... So I called my Subaru dealer and got "Honestly, that car is so old, its not going to care what oil you put in it, just make sure its changed regularly and dont bother wasting your money on synthetic oils"

Environment isnt a concern for me... Im surrounded by Pri (plural prius?) and I have a weber with no emissions and a 2.5" cherrybomb... I dont come or go quietly nor do I do it without dumping fuel for sure. I just want to run a synthetic oil and change it about ever 4-5k miles to keep my motor clean, I wont have it that long, after the rebuilt EA82 comes an EJ22t but Id like the next owner of my EA82 to not have to worry about if its going to blow up.

Maybe Im not lookin in the right spots... Im reading 15w-40 SAE on a 1991 Loyale (what I use for mine since it will have the engine of a 1991 Loyale in it)

So Im thinking I will go with it. Should I stick with 10w-30? Go to 5w-40? I drive hard.... I am doing the SPFI motor so I get a little more compression, torque cams and of course my weber 32/36 and I plan to drive it like I stole it, Ive been careful on my current motor cuz of the HG leak... With the rebuilt motor... nope haha

I think its his thick grease from GM if you look on my facebook I sent you a link to some pics from when I did mine

Talk to GD he had me use some on Ned, I cant remember if it was the assembly lube or what...

So I had heard about another board member switching, and saw on NASIOC that some Subaru people are switching to the T6 Rotella motor oil (fully synthetic) that they run in diesel trucks. When I brought up the choice to switch when I get my new motor (rebuilt actually) I had several people say it wont hold up to my driving. Currently I run Chevron 10w-30 in NED (1986 Subaru GL, D/R 5 Speed) I frequently high-rev shift... Never shift below 3K but normally around 4-6K and the occassional "Oh Crap! Shift!" at 7K by accident. Diesel motors run cooler than gas motors? So putting a suitable Diesel oil in a gasoline engine could be a problem is what Im hearing... Anyone currently running it in their EA series? Which viscosity? Should I switch viscosity? How do you drive?

Happy Birthday Spencer! Got yourself some gifts there eh? Party hard!

My bad, I thought Id read you had some re-drilled wheels to put on, didnt know if you had them on yet... For future reference then because its a pain in the rear. Les Schwab once removed my rear wheels, said the inside wear was too dangerous to put back on the car and made me buy two used tires @ 48 bucks a piece (plus installation). The wear was annoying yes, but I still had plenty of tread.

You should have an alignment done after replacing your tie-rods and stuff. I measured my old ones and put the spec on the new ones so that the tie-rods would be identical and not throw my camber/toe off much but I still went and got an alignment. I have heard that people that do lifts get some awful alignment, the higher you go the worse it gets, but some people have a way of fixing that, but seems like some custom work I agree that itll be hard to find a shop to do the custom work... Also, in my experience, Les Schwab and Americas Best will not work on a car with re-drilled wheels. They can take them off of your car and fix a flat but they wont put them back on (safety issue I guess ) so Id recommend putting on a different set of wheels if you do go to them.

I am intrigued as Ive heard that its a HG job anyway, so if youre doing HG might as well slap on the cheap power mod..

Its something I have thrown out there... because its the perfect time to do the Frankenmotor...

Is there a way I can see if the HG was done with the updated gasket on a Forester or an Outback? A friend of mine has been looking for a Subaru, and has been asking about HG and a lot of people arent sure if it was done (havent owned it long) and dont have maintenance papers. I saw an outback where the gasket looked brand new, but the guy didnt know anything about it. But a 1999 Forester we looked at, the people arent sure if it was done and they dont have a way of knowing apparently.

Face palm... Im an idiot... Suberdave... Hes running WRX parts... 17" wheels with WRX brakes... Sweet. So Ill be saving my pennies to buy an XT6 parts car