92_rugby_subie

For 2. Yes, most everyone who sends the cams in to be reground whether EA or EJ cams, they go to Delta. As for 1. Might as well replace the cam seals, rear main, front main and valve cover gaskets. As for 3. Yes as well.

On mine, I think it was slightly less alcohol per gallon of gas... The gauge was about 1/3 of the way full and I added first 3 quarts, drove hard a few times around the block (normal city block) and didnt notice it running weird or losing power, so I added the gallon size DA and drove around for about 15 miles, hard and sucking fuel, then sat in line... didnt notice any power drops but the idle was a little shaky at times (dropped below 1K on the RPM gauge for a split second a few times)

For the older gens that have difficulty passing DEQ. I was a little skeptical of GeneralDisorders suggestion to add Denatured Alcohol to the gas tank... I failed DEQ CO2 with an allowed 1%, I got 1.0549% After the treatment... I passed with 0.0000% Its about 1 gallon of gas per 1 gallon of denatured alcohol (available at Home Depot) I used 1/3 of a tank of gas in a 1990 Legacy L... and 1 gallon 3 quarts of the alcohol... Sometimes the cars will run like crap, but will pass... Im not sure if you could pass Cali standards like this. My car didnt run like crap, had a little chug at idle a few times, but never dropped that low and pulled through all gears on some back roads, so I didnt see a loss in power... Worked... Thanks Rick! (and credit to whoever suggested it to him)

Ill probably end up getting Valvoline then... Money is pretty tight, about the only thing that gets good treatment is I havent run below 1/4 of a tank on the car.

Can't quote on my phone but the last paragraph says that the color will be black ... should I drain atf after lots of shifting and then do it again and see if the atf is cleaner? Is it a case of the more I flush the cleaner it gets - like curing torque bind on the 4eat where you drain and refill a few times?

Its a girl thing I swear.. my girlfriend loves to do that to my car as well... but she must learn on my car where a clutch is cheap, whereas a WRX... not so much.

What do you guys recommend? I am looking for something that will last about 20-30k... As mucha as 50k as cheaply as possible. My plan is to drive him through school and then get a Legacy as a DD while NED goes under the... wrench, EJ swap, AWD, 5 lug etc. I just need him to hold out for another year or 2... without doing much other than swapping in the rebuilt EA82 when I get around to getting the parts for that.

About how far should I run the ATF in my tranny? Like 500 miles? 250? 1000? lol Then I think I will do the Redline still because GD has had good luck with it in the past.

Oops for those that dont know - NED is a 1986 Subaru GL Sedan, 5 speed D/R with a 32/36 DGEV Weber. I thought it was carb related at first, but its ONLY in 2nd... I can floor it in first or 3rd and have amazing power still, I just chug and lurch a lot in 2nd with at least a 50% power loss.

So for awhile when its cold, NED always has trouble going into 2nd gear... Usually first 10-15 minutes of driving until fully warmed up... It kinda grinds when shifting into 2nd, be it downshifting or upshifting (although downshifting is near impossible) Ive thought, oh Redline 75/90W in the tranny and Ill be good... But havent done the $50 fill-up because it wasnt doing it throughout the summer... Now, as winter-ish temperatures hit, its doing it again... and I cant climb hills in 2nd anymore... 1st has power, 3rd has power (barely hill-climb able) but for some reason 2nd makes the car chug, chug, chug as it goes up hills... also lurches quite a bit... This is in FWD, I havent done it in 4WD as I dont think itll change much... Any ideas? Am I losing 2nd gear? Would filling the tranny with 75/90W Redline solve the problem?

Ahh the legend beat me. :-p

You can buy an anti-dieseling solenoid... not worth it. Just put it in first and release the clutch when it tries to diesel... Thats what I do with my weber on my EA82. He does not have a Suby Graveyard. All of his cars run. Hes got a 98 forester that hes rebuilding the EJ25D on (dont know if hes finished it yet) so that obviously doesnt run, but everything else does. His mom would not fly for a Suby Graveyard haha. Hes a good guy, trust me... his outlook/bluntness may piss people off but hes a pretty cool guy... Theres 2 appreciation threads on here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125083 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126864

It just depends. As much bashing as I get... I plan to take my EA82 and put an EJ22T or Frankenmotor (EJ25 block with EJ22 heads). Convert it to AWD (4WD currently). 5 Lug swap. Bigger brakes. Better Suspension. Repainted. All black Loyale interior. Etc Etc Etc. Im probably looking at 10-20K in parts and labor... but to me itll be worth it in the end... Theres no way I could then resell the car for 20K... Probably 7K max ( I believe thats what UltimateRX sold for ) The 4 speed is junk. Should be replaced with the 5 speed d/r as it is much stronger and better on the highway. The EA81 is a great motor, be it underpowered at times, it makes about 75-80hp and with a PROPER weber conversion, it hauls. The EA81 doesnt have timing belts like the EA82, EJ22, EJ25 etc. My advice... have him start helping pay for it. That will cut your hours down. Contact GD - this is big... hes really knowledgeable and very respected in his work. Do NOT rebuild that 4 speed d/r. Seriously, not worth it at all. Pick up a good used 5 speed d/r and do the swap... rebuild that if you want to, but the 4 speed is

That's a 1990-1994 legacy. They changed the body in 1995.

Your hopes of putting money into it to make it worth more are more than likely futile. Thats as blunt as I can be. If you or your son REALLY wants to save it. Contact GeneralDisorder on here. He's located in West Linn, Oregon and knows more about Subaru than Subaru knows. He's also very blunt on telling you if you should junk it or he can tell you if its worth fixing. There was a nice lifted brat on here for sale for 1500. Hope this helps.

One of the best Subaru specialists in that area (Vancouver/Portland) is GeneralDisorder out in West Linn... Might be worth PMing him and asking him what he can do for ya.

Depends on the rebuilt motor. If it was torn COMPLETELY apart and everything was replaced. If someone used synthetic oil and had regular oil changes and used the right seals/gaskets etc... an engine like this would be ideal and would be 200% better than your current motor, even if it has 150k and yours has 78k. Maintenance records are your friend when looking for another motor... But I think in all reality... you need a motor. A sound like that, that kills the motor while youre driving is really not something you want to take shortcuts with.

Now you have an excuse to do the 5 Speed D/R swap and do it your own way, one that works with you, and if youre nice, one that will work for the next owners (if you decide to sell the Brat)

m = M 4 = A d = D j = J D = D /\/\ = M Mad JDM so yes, joke.

All Subarus from 1996+ are AWD. The EJ22 in the Legacy from 1990-1996 are all non-interference(no damage when timing belt goes, just like the EA82) and are bulletproof motors. The EJ25 is prone to head gasket failure as well as it being an interference motor (damage done when timing belt goes)

Went out and had some fun with Ned... right off the bat I snagged a rock... Got stuck, backed it up, got stuck, so just floored it... whatever it stuck on dragged the rock about a foot or two out of its hole. May not look steep, but it was pretty steep stock height obviously Due to the amount of rain and puddles, theres the maximum amount of Mud the accumulated on him

Youre on the right track! We can get a wheeling group or mudding group together... I know there are people down here that would be interested but havent spoken up yet. Obviously this is down the road when I buy a lifted Subaru... my 86 GL is too nice for beating the snot out of.

Jeez... well glad its working right again

We drilled some holes in the radiator and bolted it on... extra security

Mine does to warm up because its a carb... If yours is running fine, leave it be