92_rugby_subie

So Im looking at buying a new water pump for my replacement engine (might as well put a new one on rather than use my other one) and I know about the differences between 105mm and 110mm pumps and Ive been searching, however there seems to be a lot of "you can do this if" and "no that wont work" type of things going on... So here I have a link: http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/water_pump/subaru/loyale.html That shows Aisin and GMB water pumps at pretty decent prices, both made in Japan last I checked so should be of OEM quality... My question is... The motor going INTO the car is out of a 1990-1994 Loyale with A/C... Ned doesnt have A/C (1986 GL Sedan) so if I swap my alternator bracket onto the new motor, then I use the 105mm water pump right?

Alright, I have done some searching and pulled up just about every thread in the old gen section on headgaskets... and now Im even more confused on a few things: Retorque procedure... This is seemingly a HUGE "do what you feel is best" because people say they did retorque, no problems, or they did not retorque, no problems etc... Then theres the "before retorque" apparently I should run the motor, 30 minutes, WITH NO COOLANT? Umm... sounds like a great way to overheat your new headgaskets? I read, not putting on cam tower sealant would be beneficial so you can take the cam towers off and retorque... also heard to use the tool, but again, cant find that tool... Im so thoroughly confused is there a write up? A FSM somewhere that will tell me EXACTLY how to do this... so I don't break the motor?

Where do I start? Guess I can say I drive the snot out of it everyday... But I started tearing apart my other EA82... Got the heads sent in today as well... I had them do a valve grind and replace the stem seals while having them resurfaced, Ill have photos soon as this whole process comes together... Im pretty excited about it... being my first PERSONAL EA82 build (helped build another one before) and seeing how it goes will be a fun experience... Wish I could have the motor last until I pull it to EJ swap Ned next year (plans changed, Ill have a pavement scraper, might as well have Ned as an offroad weekend car -- lift, bigger tires, different wheels (love my AAs too much to ruin them), roof basket, front and rear bumpers, etc) But sadly this EA82 is done and tired. Too long on a busted headgasket, overheating in the WCSS15 mudpit (was a blast anyways) and the timing belt tensioner snapped the head off its bolt and came loose on the road... had to drill and tap it out to an M10X1.5 (muhaha, go ahead, snap it off) and start building this other EA82 ASAP. Heres a teaser of my "Stable of Subarus" the beautiful white one will be Subie #6 and by far the fastest...

Heads were sent in (picked the best two) today... $145 for valve grind, resurface and hottanking... not bad will post pictures when I have them done (yes they are putting new valve seals in) So USMB skips the term EA82 for me... so when I look up EA82 headgasket I get a bunch of stuff on the outback and EJ25D headgaskets... who has a really good write-up on this? I think I have it down from reading so much in the past, but I don't wanna screw this up... The key part being the retorque procedure, seals I may be missing etc.

To get that, Id have to push in the knob for my headlights and turn it left.. while the lights that come on when the key is in the ON position are just turning the knob to the right... so luckily I havent been noob switched.

Thanks! thats a huge relief! Makes things easier on me for sure! Im pretty sure my EGR stuff is already plugged, and all (I definitely dont pass emissions haha) but this should come together a lot easier now! Thanks GLOYALE!

The time has come, after the timing belt tensioner snapped the bolt IN the block and left the car stranded (drilled out and put a M10X1.5 in there to fix) I have decided to start ripping apart my 2nd EA82 engine and getting the engine prepped and built so I can solve my headgasket issue and have a fresh block... I have a few questions about this whole thing... OEM VS Permatorques... Which is better? I have OEM ones, and althogh they require a retorque, I have a friend who says we can retorque without taking the cam towers off... so it wouldnt be a big deal... but I drive my car extremely hard (6K shifts daily, hard acceleration etc) and I want to know which one will hold up to the abuse longer... Separating heads... The machine shop I chose told me to bring in both sets of heads that I have, and they will visually inspect them for cracks, and do leak down tests on them, and give me the best 2 for the motor... both engines I have are out of a 90-94 Loyale, SPFI so I figured itd be okay but I feel like I once heard NOT to mix up heads because they could be worn differently or something...? Valve adjustment... is there a write up somewhere just in case Im going to need it? Lifters... I had my lifters rebuilt by mizpah a few years ago... can I take them out of my carby engine and use them in the SPFI motor or do I need to use the SPFI ones (and probably get them rebuilt as well) Oil -- the motor isnt going to be rebuilt, just resealed, and I was thinking with new seals I could run synthetic oil in it with the new seals, but Im confused as to breaking in the motor... Im gonna do some searching for Subaru break in procedures before I do it, but most of the stuff Ive seen is new cars, turbo cars, or other makes and models. The motor will be kinda frankenmotor'd as itll be EA82 SPFI long block with a carb manifold (and a weber) but will be completely resealed.

Im so jealous, I love those pugs... Granted I love my AA wheels too.. but those pugs always have a soft spot in my heart LOOKS GREAT and I love the name

No... Just went until I couldn't go anymore unless I were to stand on it... Which would be 220lbs haha

Lugnuts are now tight... didn't change anything

I just tightened the lugs a bit... I swear if that is it Im gonna be mad... tires just went on 73.8 miles ago according to the odometer... Ive heard of driving 500 miles and checking them... but 73? Will report findings when I go re-fuel...

I'll check the axle nut. I don't have much space to swap axles around... But if I have to I can make it work...

Thanks for the quick reply everyone. I can move the axle side to side from under the hood... Not anymore than the left side moves... Things look tight but I'll have to jack it up and check them to be sure... Seems to relax me a bit hearing that it's axle related... I was thinking stripped hub

Neds having more issues (windows are finally up for the winter though ) When accelerating (NOTE: not when just rolling forward with no throttle) my front right wheel is making a rhythmic thud/light clunk sound... Ive heard wheel bearings (at least that's what I get when I search the symptoms) but I just did wheel bearings, axles, tie rod ends and brakes... I spent 600 on new tires to get the vibrations to go away but they told me my entire front rack was destroyed and quoted me almost $900 to fix, I know I can do it cheaper than that... but Ive also figured my front rack was destroyed since I was leaking PS fluid under the car... but the thud/clunk never happened so it leads me to believe that its axle related... however both boots are intact and not leaking, roll pin is there on the transmission side and the castle nut and everything is there on the wheel side... (should be tight too since I put significant force on putting it back on) When in reverse, even just rolling backwards without the accelerator pushed, it clunks as well, obviously a slower clunk than when accelerating forward... I figure that's notable as well. Im kind-of stumped here... I shouldn't have to replace parts I just replaced 2,000 ago, even with the WCSS mud-pit fun that I had (as the offroaders I doubt go through parts THIS quickly.

I believe there is a 4 speed dual range from the brats/hatches A 5 speed dual range swap is possible but requires some additional parts and modifications

So what youre saying is that going from a 10W40 to a 5W30 isn't a big difference as long as they are of the same quality?

Totally late... But heres a video of Ned in the mud pit I had a blast this year! Thanks to the admins and organizers for a great show!

Well snaps... thanks for the responses guys! I guess we will see what the 10W40 does to the car in the winter time... I have access to it just not at a discount... always penny pinching when you have an old scoob that's for sure!

I have run Chevron 10W30 in Ned since I got him (before I got him I did an oil change with it too) with no issues. When the head gasket blew and began leaking oil externally I switched to Valvoline 10W40 Synthetic blend and it seemed to slow the amount that I leaked but I did notice my oil pressure was a little higher. However that was summertime and with fall/winter approaching I need to do another oil change and I get a nice discount on oil and filters at my dealership. They have a Mobil1 synthetic blend but it comes in 5W30 only... I have seen people run 5W30 with no issues but in terms of behavior, what might I see? More oil consumption? Better gas mileage? Lower/higher pressure?

Maybe "weird" isn't the correct term, but it sure is annoying... When its hot out (like today 90+ degrees) my accelerator seems to stick... Ill pull up to a light in neutral or with the clutch in and my RPMs sit anywhere from 1500-2000 until I reach my foot under the pedal and pull it back up the RPMs drop to like 1000 (which is normal) Im just wondering, the cable was replaced within the last few years... so is it possible to lube it at all? Maybe the spring on the weber isn't pulling the cable back up far enough (though it doesn't happen 100% of the time, but it happened at every light on my way home today) Maybe I need to spray brake cleaner on the carb set-up and lube that whole area? it is pretty dirty (as seen below)

Thanks to all the staff members for a great show and being so patient with everyone, had a blast and definitely cant wait until next year (already) Was awesome to meet Monstaru -- definitely connected the dots finally!

NED 108 is the coolest plate Ive seen haha A guy on the facebook group wanted to do KWLSOOB on his and I believe I heard rumors that SOOBME was taken in Oregon already :/

Bumping this up...

Forgot also need a trunk of an XT6 going as well so a Loyale/GL/Legacy/Forester is preferred...

I figured I could get the most responses here since the WCSS forum is in here... I need to get some "bigger" items to a member in Calgary Canada... They are just rear door panel pieces, not a huge heavy load or anything, but was hoping someone coming to WCSS and returning back to Canada would be willing to take these pieces back... I would bring them to WCSS and give them to the transporter and then the transporter and the other member could discuss meeting up, obviously amount paid and payment would be established before WCSS... Please PM me if you have further questions or think you can do it. Items will fit in an EA82 sedan so any subie should work! Greatly appreciated!