92_rugby_subie

Do it The road-trip part of it. Car looks clean and looks like fun to drive, now its time to go have fun

Whats the lift on it?

+1 im gonna build my perfect Subaru outta Ned Then get a sticker that says BUILT NOT BOUGHT

Is yours already a 6 lug set up? I cant really see the wheels, but thats a clean loyale and looks awesome!

The Outback is a higher suspension, more "offroad" vehicle, there is still the Legacy Brighton, L, LS, LSi models that have the EJ22 in them until 96 as well. But they will be lower... you can get lift on them by adding Forester struts/springs. We can find one, one will be on there, and like I said, if this EA82 isnt what its cracked up to be, then we can look into a Legacy, go test drive one, etc... Also, as Rick pointed out, my knowledge of EAs comes from Rick (and some from just reading on the board, but at least 90% is from being around Rick and asking questions) and I do know he hates this platform. I love the EAs because my Loyale and Ned both ran/run amazingly. But I can do the work on an EJ as well... Just simply whatever deal strikes the fancy that you like. I do believe that either platform will be just fine for you because of the care you take in the car... regular oil changes and fixing things when they go wrong will keep an EA or an EJ on the road for at least 300k if not more. I have seen Legacy Models with over 300k on them and I can testify of personally driving an 85 DL with 456k that ran like it had 150k on it, but either of those cars had general maintenance and were taken care of (be it the DL was stop/go with fast starts, hard braking... Still did just fine.) The EJ will have more power, but as you have said about the D/R... I know Clifford the Legacy has D/R but last I checked it was D/R AWD not D/R 4X4 with 2WD... Although most Legacys have a 2WD fuse that you can pull and they will only run in 2WD.

Heres a few things for edit... 1985/1986 Non Turbos were carb'd... no alternative there. and the Loyale goes til 1994 only (no 1995) Ive seen some 87's Fuel Injected I think an 88-89 will be perfect. The PB-D/R swap is easy enough that a Loyale will work as well.

Upon a question from my own EA82 and searching for an EA82 for my friend, I asked GeneralDisorder about this topic. I asked if Subaru OEM or Autozone Fel-Pro was better and his response was that on the EA's he uses the Fel-Pro because they dont require a retorque. I plan to use this gasket when I do my EA82 seal up (if I dont find another motor that suits my preference before then) especially at only $24.99 each. Edit: Link added: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1986-Subaru-GL/Head-Gasket/_/N-ije30Z8znn3?filterByKeyWord=Headgasket&fromString=search

The indicator light bulb could be burnt, not saying its not a possiblity. You might also have a broken connection between the 4WD switch and the indicator. Edit: Especially if he had it offroad... It could have come loose and disconnected. Did you have the indicator lights working when you got it or is this the first youve tried them and they didnt work?

I dont have much experience in the burnt bulbs part... I never had burnt bulbs and I used my Loyale a lot offroad.

IIRC: In 2WD - Nothing on the dash. In 4WD HI - 4WD pops up (4WD and all 4 wheels illuminated on dash) In 4WD LO - Same as above except a little yellow strip says 4LO. Thats how mine is. My Loyale had PB 4WD (4HI) and the 4WD pops up (4WD and all wheels illuminated on dash) My Current car - 86 GL Sedan D/R 5 speed.

Nice wagon! I love my GL - Ned. I never thought to put up a thread like this though, but I think most people know who he is Hope to see a thread on progress (unless this is going to be the progress thread in of which I will subscribe to this one )

I have been helping on this search for a vehicle and have also been searching the forums. One request - a write-up. Complete. I have read that its pretty straight forward. I have found SOOO many posts on the "parts" required, but not so much how to do it. Out of the pure nickname - autoTRAGIC, I vote for a 5 speed S/R Loyale - 5 speed D/R swap.

Youre in the right forum, some of our experts just may not have seen it...

I asked Caboobaroo about his lowering job... I would go to him and he can tell you about his... I plan to lower my EA82 eventually... I have the PM he sent me, I could paste it in here, but only with his permission. Not so sure I would cut springs for lowering though...

Sweet, just checking. Thanks Rick!

Just to clarify... Absolutely NO damage can come if the timing belt slips or breaks on an Loyale correct? I found one pretty cheap that a shop quoted $900 to fix bent valves because the timing belt jumped a couple teeth.... Is the shop also going to charge for muffler bearings (bogus) or are they serious?

None of them swap in "easily" but any EA82 seat should bolt right in... So from a 1985 DL,GL, GL-10 or Loyale up to 1994.

The parts are there.. somewhere... An 88GL should have the same "body" panels and such as any EA82, like a 1985 GL-1994 Loyale So it could be beneficial to just rebuild what you have... especially if you like it. As for anything 2000+ I cant do much to help you for recommendations...

O.o Whoa. I was gonna say... Moosens whyd you change youre name... but youre not Moosens... haha you're Moosen... Hmmm... Whyd you choose this name? Nice scoob. Whered you pick it up, Im afraid I didnt see it on craigslist and Ive been searching. Looks very clean! Wheres Big Sky? I see it has Oregon plates

+1 holy snot. That BRAT is clean as can be! At first I saw "125,000 for $3,000" and went... Uhh... Really? But that is an incredible looking machine! Welcome to the board...

I just always forget about the rust issues until someone brings it up, then Im thankful for the West Coast. I love the West Coast. I wouldnt move east unless I HAD to (business or something) and in my "transfer" costs would be 10-15 Subarus, all rust-proofed and shopped to the east plus my living costs and stuff... But I will be keeping my rust-free scoob and be happy about it.

Im not sure if this will help you or not, but it might be worth seeing if it does change the price...

Oh good point, I shouldve looked at your location. Im just used to being on the west coast with no rust but enough about my good life.

GD has a post recently about a DL pump that is only around $100 give/take for the pump, I cant remember which year it is though. I will do some searching and see if I can locate it for you but $200 is a bit much.

The water/coolant will cool itself with time. Although if you want to. Leave the key in the on position til the fan shuts off after driving (shouldnt be more than a couple minutes)