92_rugby_subie

Good! I see no harm in keeping your foot to the floor, as long as its responsibly. I keep my foot to the floor most of the time in my car, drives me insane when I see people shifting their cars at 2500rpms, theres no time for exhaust to make noise and the (in my case) secondary in the carb to open up and suck fuel and rocket the car forward.

shoulda drained all the oil and refilled it with 4 qts of ATF... Ill let someone else chime in on the IAC though.

Agreed, start with the draining the oil. Do your spark plugs and wire and check your distributor cap and timing. Id be willing to bet on Heartless' assumption about the timing, I bet if you did all these, the Loyale would purr! Hope to see it goes well. Best of luck

Youre getting what Im turning my Subaru GL into Treat it well and we may have to hook up at a WCSS in the future when mine is finished That car is GORGEOUS and very well done

IIRC the Impreza is lighter than the Legacy. My buddies Impreza goes a lot faster than his sisters Legacy off the line, both 5 speeds and both EJ22s. Its a 93/94 Legacy and a 1997 Impreza

Agreed. My brother took my car to firestone to have them look at it (forgot to tell him the tie-rods were going. They said: Wheel bearings on both sides shot (knew this) Tie-Rods shot on both sides (knew this) Uneven tire wear because of tie-rods and alignment (knew this) Steering rack boot torn (knew this) I figured $50 for tires, $50 for alignment and $60 for tie-rods, wheel bearings I have already, I figured so 200 bucks max and my car will be perfect. They said NOWHERE will I get it done for under $1500. I heard they do good work, but estimating is NOT in their "Good Work" Section. Wheel bearings arent difficult, I have seen GeneralDisorder and Renob123 knock out front wheel bearings on an 84 DL in under 2 hours and thats TRYING to explain to me how to do it. Axle is pretty simple as well, I believe I have removed an axle before on the same 84 DL as mentioned above.

Read your post in Poor Man Run. I will suggest you drain your oil now, not tomorrow, just drain it til its empty and seal it back up, then tomorrow when you do the oil change, do the ATF and oil change. You need to verify your timing because you arent starting. What is going on when you TRY to start it? Do your dash lights come on? Is it clicking when you crank it? Is it trying to start or is it just blank? You cant run ATF if the car isnt running, so I would tinker around with the timing, see if theres another user in the Spokane area that would be willing to come work on this with you for a few days, maybe give them some money for gas and beer for their time, buy them lunch, do something, but if you want this car up and running by Sunday, you will need some help.

Agreed. If you want peoples advice (thats why youre posting here) you need to keep it friendly, and accept their advice. +1 with Heartless. DRAIN YOUR OIL NOW! DO NOT WAIT. Rust could lead to your engine seizing up and then you have to spend money to put another EA82 in there since you dont have the expertise to do the EJ swap yet. Were just being friendly here, trying to offer you advice, and you have questions for us, be prepared for us to have questions back to clarify what is going on.

Good idea, another thing. Do you have Haynes repair manual? Might check that your distributor and wires are all lined up correctly and go to the right spark plug. Im sure if you were closer I could help figure it out, but youre a bit of a trek from me. The timing could be off. The distributor may have been soaked Several things coulda gone wrong, but try the spark plugs and atf and oil change first.

Not a bad idea since youre younger than I am and Im not legal to drink... yet.

Front left... mine canister was on the right hand side IIRC. If its silver and small its probably the fuel filter, if its black and about the size of a pickle jar, its the emissions canister.

Thats the emissions canister, most likely your issue, or at least part of it. Make sure all the hoses are connected to it, post a picture if you arent really sure, but where it connects shouldnt be too difficult to see (maybe in the dark it will be or if its covered in mud)

Sounds like you may have a loose hose somewhere... Did you maybe snag it on something? Look around your engine bay carefully for something out of the ordinary.. something hanging loose or something not connected correctly.

Yupp works WONDERS!

Regular oil change. Or you can clean the motor out... ATF - Automatic Transmission Fluid is a detergent.. You can drain your oil and put ATF in where you would put oil, just the normal amount (3.5-4.5qts) leave your old oil filter on, start your motor and run it, keep it alive, run it a few times, do this for about 15 minutes, or a little longer, just dont drive it forever like this. Drain the ATF out, let it all drain out for a few minutes, remove your oil filter, let it basically just drain out etc. Then slap new oil filter on (Ive used Bosch or Mobil filters), put new oil (I use mobil non synthetic or Chevron oil (blue container) I did this with my EA81 with GD and that car ran a lot better.

Although it would be coolant in the oil... So did you just hit some major water or whats the story? I guess Ill go look at Older Gen.

HG is Head Gaskets Thats no good...

Mine do this too, well the left side does, ALWAYS funny... Unless you let someone else drive and youre stuck in the back, then it sucks. Mine you just pull the handle and elbow the back part of the door and it opens.

theres two bolts... umm either 17mm or 14mm that remove the whole caliper... id take them off and remove the whole thing, that is what I did, but I didnt get to remove my whole caliper, I just unbolted it, turned the piston back into its boot 100% and then bled the nasty fluid out and so far its been going great

Sure either direction will work, do what suits you, although the trans swap would give you the lower gears, then you can do the lift and tires together at once.

This seems to explain it the best on how to remove the caliper.

Its not a ring, its the piston, but I guess, yes the "shiny" part of that would be the piston... But someone will chime in, if not, refer to your repair manual or FSM and it should tell you there.

New tranny is easy, you wanna do a D/R swap anyway

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2430276804.html 1992 Subaru Loyale 5 Speed, needs clutch and battery - 775$ firm might be a good one to start with..

You have to pay CLOSE attention when doing your re-drilled hubs. A hack job will be unsafe, pay close attention to measurements and check twice drill once. The trans swap is pretty straight forward if I recall from reading. You will need the center console from a EA82 D/R car, and the transmission obviously. A new clutch is not needed, but if you need one, then you might as well get one.