92_rugby_subie

I like the way they look, and I would own one, but just for the cool factor, from what Ive heard it was a "what was Subaru thinking?" kinda car. Still awesome that youve moved to Vancouver though

Ha Congrats on landing the job! Will be glad to see you at the show this year, meeting new Subaru people is always fun. What do you drive?

and GWAL... The for sale section is open even to visitors He just cant Private Message yet, that comes after 10 posts.

An outback is a great rig for what your asking. Even the Forester actually if you want a more "jeep" like rig. They have great ground clearance. Only trouble that Ive heard of is the headgaskets for the EJ25D, but once they are replaced with the MLS gaskets, Ive heard they dont need replacement again. The EJ25D is in the 96 and newer outbacks/foresters I believe but there are some outbacks that are EJ22s, but they seem to be kinda rare, but if you can find one, they are great. Loyales are great too, I had a 1992, but in comparison, the EA82 thats in the Loyales is pretty gutless compared to the EJ22 or EJ25. Welcome to the board!

I could be totally wrong, but that looks to be the drain plug for the radiator... Looked like that when the one on GDs brat came off, but its hard to tell what it is by the position of the photo, but I think its a radiator plug/drainplug.

Agreed. Ill smoke a cigar with friends every now and then, and hookah too. Or when Im just straight up pissed I will walk around the block smokin a cigarette and then I feel better no addiction here lol.

I never had them in a specific order and they worked out fine I can get specs from GD today on what we used for the lube/grease and stuff. He did say not to let the rockers hit the ground? Now I let one hit the ground :/ I was learning though. But didnt seem to cause an issue, but I wouldnt go playing bouncing rockers off pavement or anything, because they will want to fall out.

does anyone have any pics of this working out? How much of a drop are you looking at when you go with the 2WD struts? Is there going to be issues with speed bumps?

Agreed. I did it with the engine in the car, but I have less sh*t in the way seeing as my EA82 has a carburetor so it wasnt THAT bad, but I did have to redo the sealant because I smeared it by accident when putting the cam tower back on.

When is it not a cigarette and mountain dew kinda morning? I dont smoke that much actually, very rarely.. But any morning is dew morning!

http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm Youll see Subaru on their list about 3/4 of the way down. Looks like $4.50 to rebuild your core (so about $36) or buy their cores for $6.00 each, so $48.00 for the EA82s.

Pull your cam towers off and take the lifters out. I believe Mizpah (spelling?) rebuilds them. Worked for Ned, I did it for Rick and now Im driving Ned. I dont hear the ticking really... I mean sometimes, but its rare.

I didnt even realize your location, I apologize. I thought you were a local just saying you didnt camp lol.

I do believe it says "Mark Your Calendars, Dig Out Your Camping Gear, and Prepare for WCSS 13!! Not prepare your hotel Im just yankin your chain though

I dont wanna start anything, especially definitely not knowing more than anyone who's given the advice... but the OP needs more info... "CANT GET INTO GEAR" doesnt say much. Can you be IN the gear spot (say shifting into second gear) and not drive in 2WD but then you pop the lever into 4WD and in the same gear spot the car will move? or Can you be trying to go into gear and nothing happens at all, it wont shift into gear unless its in 4WD? Just wondering out of interest

Yupp I have a picture of the fluid... it was gross... Thanks so much. I will post the picture on the other page as well as a thank you.

Must be something to do with the EA82 Sedans that attract the kitties *no dirty joke intended I suppose* Blood sweat and tears into the Subaru. I bled the brakes. Sweated a lot. and my friend wasnt wearing her seatbelt when I did a brake check. ALMOST hit window but didnt and so we laughed til we cried. Overall good day

Gonna bleed the brakes. Freed up the piston, it turns now, so I backed it off pretty far and Im going to bleed the brakes (beginning on the Right Rear) and see if I cant get complete clear fluid and see if that helps.

Still bugging mom to give me the money to fix my car... but I did take the cap off (after cleaning it) to see what was up with my brake fluid... It looked dirty... and so here you guys can take a look: Mom goes "oh crap, you need a whole brake system flush if thats how that looks" Isnt that what Im doing? Like when I flush all 4 brakes, will it not flush the system? what about the hill holder and e-brake?

Then I will most definitely change that so people arent confused. Thanks!

Thanks so much for your patience. So this is what Im thinking I will do. Remove caliper Have the e-brake line disconnected Pump the e-brake line on the caliper to get the piston out. Unscrew it the rest of the way. Spray some brake cleaner in the piston hole and on the piston. Clean gunk out, repeat until I feel its clean enough. Let dry. Rub brake grease into the piston hole (and on the piston?) Screw piston back into piston hole until its all the way down? Reconnect brake lines. Put caliper/pad assembly back on rotor (but DONT hit the brakes yet) Repeat for other side. After both front ones are redone (rears are drum brakes) begin the bleed process: Use turkey baster to remove the old fluid (probably not all of it, just most of it right, to prevent air from getting in the line? Fill with new fluid. Put cap on (clean cap) Push down the pedal, open the bleeder. Fluid comes out. Immediately close the bleeder. Lift up on pedal. Repeat. If the pedal is lifted up with the bleeder open it just sucked air in, you went backwards. Order to bleed: So Passenger Rear, Driver Front, Driver Rear, Passenger Front I hope this is right, I dont wanna waste your guys' time. At least Im making a very thorough walk-through for another scoobie-newb? AND ITLL BE DONE RIGHT SO I DONT DIE IN A CRASH (And Ned Stays In One Piece)

I plan to rebuild both sides I wont push the pedal, and I will keep an eye on the fluid, I have an old bottle thats bout half full so I will pour that in while Im cleaning the calipers. I have what appear to be brand new brake pads and brand new brake rotors. Unfortunately, the brake pads have a little scuffing from being taken off the rotor when they were stuck, can I just sand them with a little sand paper or will they go back to wearing correctly when I start driving?

Thanks so much. I had brake cleaner, but a buddy of mine had this god awful colored bumper that we were trying to sell, so we sprayed brake cleaner on it, it ate the new paint and was able to be scrubbed off to the original color underneath it. So just to clarify: Brake Cleaner (1 can should do both front calipers?) Steel wool (or is there something better) Brake grease (brand/quantity I should get for 2 calipers) DOT-3 Brake Fluid (should the smaller ones work or is it the larger one to fill the reservoir for bleeding the brakes) Turkey Baster (for sucking old fluid out) I am really trying to do this on a very cheap budget, but I dont want my cars brakes to lock up on the freeway or something. I plan to take special care in this, but I also dont want a $50 repair bill :-\ Post question: For bleeding the brakes. If there is bad fluid in the line, should I bleed it BEFORE I put the rebuilt/redone calipers on there so that the bad fluid doesnt get right back in there?